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E3D 1.75mm all metal hotend arrives..

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by CAMBO3D, May 28, 2013.

  1. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

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    thanks for all the good advice , I am going to attempt to change out my head this weekend . do you have to change any settings in the software for the different thermistor ?
     
  2. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    no it should be a simple swap just make sure that when all is hooked back up you get readings you can see on teh computer
     
  3. patmc

    patmc New Member

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    Just wanted to add my $.02. The first time I fired up my new E3D, I could see it reporting the ambient room temp, seemingly correctly. I decided to set it for something low, just to check it, so set it to 80C. It shot up rapidly... and then shot right past 80... past 90... and past 100C. It finally stabilized, and started to drop when it hit 104 or so.... then dropped slowly back to 80... and eventually stayed there. I repeated the test, but this time set a target of 180C instead. It once again rapidly climbed to 180... and overshot the target temp again... but this time... but only about 10C. I finally tried one last test, setting a target temp of 230C. This time it overshot... but only by about 5 degrees.

    I think the takeaway here is that the metal hot end heats SO quickly... that the thermistor doesn't record the change and report back to the software quick enough... so it overshoots. At the higher temps, it doesn't heat quite as quickly, so the thermistor has more time to report back to the software, and the software can turn the heater cartridge down (or off)... so it doesn't overshoot the target temp as much.

    Also, the way I mounted mine... the thick heater wires are on the left side... which happens to be the same side as the X stop. It initially interfered with my X stop, but I was able to zip tie the wires to the non-moving part of the print head assembly to pull the in enough to no effect the X stop.

    Best of luck to you... it really is a pretty nice piece of kit!
     
  4. Mitch

    Mitch New Member

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    I recently got my printer about 3 weeks ago and accidentally (meaning I was being stupid) kicked up the temperature to 240'ish which ended up warping the thermoplastic component that connects the brass print head to the rest of the extruder. I just absolutely could not get the ABS filament i had on hand to extrude without reaching a minimum of 235'C and even then I had to force the filament a little by hand to get through the nozzle.

    I ordered myself an ED3 hotend and it should arrive in about another week hopefully. Is there any instructions on how to connect the wires for the cartridge heater and the fan to the Robo?
     
  5. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    basically after it is built hooking it up is basically cutting of the old one and connecting back up the corresponding wires
    the heater will have two you cut frm the old and two will go in to replace them. Same for the thermistor the additional wiring will be for the cooling fan that it mounted to the cooling fins and must be hooked directly to 12V on the PSU so it is on whenever the printer is on. don't worry when you get it I am sure some one here can help you. If you can't find some look me up I will help you
     
  6. Mitch

    Mitch New Member

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    Awesome. Thanks for the info. My new printhead came in over the weekend and hooked it up like you mentioned. I didn't know what lead on the PSU was 12v+ and I didn't have a multimeter to find out, so I just hooked up to the connections that the old fan was using. It's not that big of a deal for me to remember to turn on the fan before turning on the the heat. But as you mentioned, this is something that I'll want to always have on in the future.
     
  7. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Mitch - there are two open screws on the PSU those are the 12V. I believe they are labeled, my printer is in mid print or else I'd take a look for you.
     
  8. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    There's also a pair of 12V header connector pins on the RAMPS board that are useful for this purpose. They're near the top left if you have the wires facing up.
     
  9. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    The reason temps keep climbing once its reached is not really a flaw, its more of a side effect. Its most likely not still adding heat once it reaches the right temp, but the temps will still climb slightly...and it will be more dramatic at lower temps because time. If it was heated slowly, you wouldn't have near the issue. Sensor placement will change it dramatically as well.
     
  10. Ian Kenny

    Ian Kenny New Member

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    I have been trying unsucessfully to print with ABS since the nice guys at Robo3D finally sent my printer to me in Jersey UK this week, but didn't include any filament. The ABS I have says print at 220-260 on the spool label, setting temp at 220 with supplied hotend results in fluctuating temperature + or -15 degrees and regularly causes shut down due to OVERTEMP @230 but printing the ABS at 210 produces poor results and the whole setup is very susceptible to ambient temperature, with extruded filament not adhering to previous layers, more so the further away from the bed, I think a heated enclosure would probably be required to get any decent results at all. If only I could print at 250.... so what do you guys think about swapping out the hot end?
     
  11. Ahmed Jaber

    Ahmed Jaber New Member

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    My E3D hotend arrived today and I installed everything except the fan (don't know where I'm supposed to connect the wires), but I'm running into an issue where filament is not getting through to the nozzle. I can manually force the filament in, but then the motor isn't able to continue the feed. I'm using their standard .4mm nozzle, so it's not like I'm trying anything fancy.
     
  12. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    RTFM for the nozzle.
     
  13. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    Er, hot end. Back to bed for me.
     
  14. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    Wire up the fan, it's there for a reason, that may fix your problem. Read the instructions it tells you where to wire your fan and how to tighten the hot end properly so you don't have problems.
     
  15. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    Excuse my harsh brevity at 6 this morning but, the instructions on how to assemble the E3D hot end are all available online and they state very clearly that you *cann0t* run the E3D without a fan. They also state some important information about heating the hot end to 300 degrees C and seating the nozzle. If you haven't read the manual and followed the instructions properly, you are just setting yourself up for damaging your shiny new nozzle.
     
  16. Ahmed Jaber

    Ahmed Jaber New Member

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    The hotend didn't come with an FM, unfortunately, and I just pulled one up online. Thanks for the answers.
     
  17. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    One thing to remember is with the E3D, in order to get it to 300 degrees C, you MUST upgrade the firmware of your Robo 3D with the modification for hot-end MAXTEMP if you have not done it yet. Otherwise the E3D WILL NOT get to 300 degrees C since the maxtemp for the stock firmware is 235 degrees C.
     
  18. Ahmed Jaber

    Ahmed Jaber New Member

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    Ah, I would never have thought of something like that. How would I go about upgrading my firmware?
     
  19. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    Ahmed, take a look at section C.7. on the Robo 3D FAQ. http://melodybliss.org/robo3d/

    It describes the file and section you need to modify and directs you to a different section which tells you how to upload the newly built firmware. If you have questions let us know :)
     
  20. Ahmed Jaber

    Ahmed Jaber New Member

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    Thanks a lot :)
     

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