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E3D Volcano Discussion

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by mark tomlinson, Dec 27, 2014.

  1. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Roger that @mark tomlinson, saw your post earlier in the thread so made sure to do that.
    I forgot about the layer height. I'll try .4mm. Thanks for that reminder!
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The rule is that layer height should be 30%-60% of the nozzle size for best results.
    You can print with that nozzle at 0.2, but ... start with the best settings to get it dialed in :)
     
  3. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    I am having the hardest time calibrating the volcano upgrade...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The better prints are in the 225-235* extruder temp range. And the E step calibration seems very difficult to me... I also don't have the vernier calipers to do as instructed in the wiki... :(

    I was hoping the volcano upgrade was going to be as easy as the v6 was but I just can't seem to get good prints. On each of these boxes the corners seem to curve or lift up...?

    I'm not sure what is the best direction to go with playing with the settings.
     
  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    1st off, what material is that? Volcano runs cooler than the v6 and (depending on the nozzle you use) thicker layer heights.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    PLA? ABS? SlicedCheese?

    At that temperature I am going to guess ABS. If so, run the extruder as cold as you can, the bed as hot as you can and keep the drafts away.

    It may well have some over or under extrusion going on there, but for that you are going to need to do the e-step calibration (adjust the firmware). The Toms H/W video is pretty much the best guide for that.

    You CAN do some playing with it without updating he firmware by simply adjusting the extrusion % when doing the print (i.e. <100% or >100%) depending on which way you think it needs to go (up if you are under extruding, down if you are over extruding).
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, that too -- very important. WHich nozzle are you using (what size)? The layer thickness needs to be 30%-50% of the nozzle size.
    So for a 0.8 -- try 0.4 layer thickness -- you get the idea.
     
  7. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Sorry gents, I should have mentioned that. I'll also update that post as well. It is Hatchbox 1.75mm ABS. Using the .8mm nozzle and trying .4 & .5mm layer heights.

    I'm using MatterControl and upping the "extruder multiplier. Currently at 1.3 & 1.4 to get the box tops as close to sealed as I've been able to.

     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    How many top/bottom layers do you have going?

    Still, that is cosmetic, but it may help the tops closing (I still think you need to bring the extruder multiplier down -- not up). Looks more like general over extrusion which with ABS will not be fun to deal with. Try the extrusion multiplier at 1 and just add enough top/bottom layers to get >1mm (1.5 or better IMHO)
     
  9. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    I have 3 top & 3 bottom layers as the setting. Also watched the Tom's video and tried his method. I for whatever reason overlooked watching the video and was reading the wiki in one of the previous links and over thought it... Tried Tom's method and found when I extruded 100mm I had a 6mm difference. So made those settings to the FW file I saved from the v6 upgrade and will now test some prints. Thanks @mark tomlinson and @daniel871. I'm going to keep plugging away at this. :thumbs up:
     
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  10. dbefore

    dbefore New Member

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    And if you are still having trouble with the fan duct, I will see about shrinking it about 2mm

    Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk
     
  11. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    I would greatly appreciate that! I tried scaling just the height in MatterControl by 1mm and it made it very difficult to attach. I ended up cracking it a bit but it's a temp fix.
    All the purple prints were without a fan.
    With the temp fan duct the prints came out better but I was battling snagging the first layer.

    Thanks again for posting that fan duct @dbefore and in advance for a slightly shorter one!
     
  12. dbefore

    dbefore New Member

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    try this duct out. let me kno if it works out for you
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Thank you much @dbefore! This shroud is working a lot better on my R1! Very much appreciated!

    [​IMG]
    Can anyone suggest how not to have the layers crack and separate, as seen on this shroud? The cracking/separating occurred during or after the print, prior to me even touching it. Increasing the heat seems to help, but my volcano upgrade seems to be the opposite of what everyone else is experiencing in being able to lower temps.
     
    #73 Phenom3030, Jun 27, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2015
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are using ABS, which is by nature more finicky ...
    Cracking, splitting, layer separation are all symptoms of ABS heat management issues.

    I would suggest going down the line and trying thing like:
    -slower print speed
    -faster print speed
    -slower extrusion
    -faster extrusion

    and combinations of them.
    Make darn certain you do not have much (if any) air movement in and around the print bed.
    Speaking of air movement, you do NOT want the parts cooling fan running either (normally) for ABS. Make sure it is off.
    That is a nice fan duct and all, but you don't normally even want that fan on for ABS :)
     
  15. dbefore

    dbefore New Member

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    For some reason... maybe its the brand I am using (hatchbox ABS) I seem to print better with my fans running. Dual fans at that, with my fan ducts. Without my fans running I would get some of the same results phenom3030 was getting... with them on I would get near perfect results... odd. This may require further investigation.

    Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it works, it works :)
    Every environment is different.

    Generically, ABS is not fan friendly.
     
  17. JOAQUIN PICCI

    JOAQUIN PICCI Member

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  18. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    It isn't quite plug and play. You need to do a very small amount of modification on the install. You can find detailed instructions here http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...on-installation-guides-and-review.3407/unread

    I'd advise ordering their power pack if it's in your budget. It will allow you to easily swap between the V6 and the volcano add on.
    If you don't think you need the V6 at all, you could just get a volcano with some extra parts.
    You will need:
    12VX25W volcano upgrade kit (I actually think they are now shipping 30W in the kit labeled as 25W, which is fine)
    1.75mm direct V6 heat sink
    100mm ptfe tube
    fan mount (you could also print this, but it's pretty cheap and looks cool)
    fan
    1.75mm V6 heat break

    If you want to PM me, I can also make you up a quote for the same order that would be coming from the US via international priority mail.
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    This is for @mark tomlinson or @Printed Solid, With the Volcano, why are there no Stainless Steel nozzles for people that want to use highly abrasive filaments? I know that the v6 nozzles are available in all sizes in Stainless, but not the Volcano. Thought either of you might have just a bit of insight.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have to do the basic E3D conversion to use the volcano (I don't think they sell the Volcano directly, but @Printed Solid is the man to talk to about all of this)
     

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