Fan shroud?

AxisLab. That looks awesome. I had the same issue with bed clearance and am working on increasing it but making sure it will be compatible with the same X carriage bracket. I want a fan either side of my X carriage for the best cooling.

A couple questions.
Do you have issues with massive temperature drop of your hot end when the fan starts?
Did you have any unstuck filaments strings on the inside of what's the flat bottom surface of the duct that's parallel to the bed?
What was your print speed, perimeters, fill, ABS/PLA, temps etc. It might help me/others fine tune prints. Maybe include on Thingiverse.

 

Best I can tell temperature drop is a non issue for me, I took a screenshot here. Right at 47:00 is when the second layer kicked in on a fairly small part triggering the fan. 205 first layer 195 for the rest (PLA) so it was right at a programed temp drop anyway. Focus was 195 and it briefly dropped to 185ish with the fan. But to me that is just surface temp at the sensor itself I would think, for core temp that is so marginal and brief I wouldn't give it a second thought.
My fan is set for a min 30% max 100. Everything else is pretty basic, I don't have a heated bed. .2046 layer with 2 perimeters, speeds pretty much at 40-60mm/sec (I'm not in too big a hurry). Lower on the outside quicker speeds inside. I was using like 10-15% infill I think just to stick the sides together.

I didn't have any unstuck strands like you were asking either.
I do like the bracket a lot as I said thank you for designing this. It's like a permanent fixture that will make it easy to add so many designs for the shroud attachments.
For those that don't know it uses the existing extruder assembly bolt so, no drilling or extra hardware needed. frankly its perfect I think. I will be leaving on there and hope to see new duct designs for sure.
Also Galaxius, if you saw the design that Printed Solid linked to, you get the same effect of surrounded cooling but still only need a single fan and bracket. That may something great to think about.

 

Sorry to double post but I was just looking at the picture of your bracket here, and noticed you have a different nozzle than me too. If you look at my previous post mine is rounded and yours in this picture has a nipple on it that must be a mm or two longer than mine. That makes sense why mine has even less clearance then.

 

@AxisLab. Thanks for the info. I'm running the latest Repetier Host and Slic3r but haven't updated the printer's firmware yet. Frankly updating the firmware scares me a little.

I'm currently having some issues with my hobbed bolt now too where after it's been printing for a while it stops extruding. I had some issues with my spool holder where the filament was getting caught and because of that I think it's worn the hobbed bolt. I've cleaned it but I think I need to replace it. I'm pretty sure this is why my fan duct didn't quite finish and why I've had some other prints fail. Most annoying.

I'll take a photo of my temperature graph to show you what I'm experiencing, but it won't be for a few days.

Their must have been more than one nozzle supplier. That's interesting. I'm trying to make sure there's plenty of clearance with the new duct design

 

@Galaxius. I think it is pretty much impossible for a hobbed bolt to wear out with the filaments we use. Unless Robo3D is shipping better ones you will save yourself a lot of headaches by getting a new one from ebay. After replacing my bolt and making sure I had a very tight tension on the idler bearing I never have any plastic shavings on the bolt even after an all night print and I don't get stripes of under extrusions anymore. Until you get a new bold I suggest adding a few more washers to the idler springs.

 

What is your extrusion speed/flowrate set for Galaxus? I have been lucky I guess and have never had to adjust mine I guess.

 

@Galaxius. Updating the firmware is really no big deal at all. You really can't "brick" and Arduino system or at least is would be extremely hard to. Anyone who is using an Arduino board to develop code for a project is downloading new programs constantly. This is exactly what you are doing when you download a new version of RAMPS.

 

So I just searched 'fan shroud' on thingiverse to see if we could adapt any for use with our printer and here are the results:

- Decent candidate

- Similar to stock

- E3D All-In-One

- Mount is similar to stock

- Mount would have to be redone

- Similar to homeboy's idea, looks like it would give a different profile

- Similar as well

- Very interesting idea, I wonder how much the hotend would have to fight this method

- Taking it a bit further

- Same idea, but for E3D

- Similar to above idea

Let me know what you guys think.

 

The problem is for all those listed that would need a redesign to fit with the robo, it's easier to just start from scratch. The fitting is the hardest part. after that it's just "pointing the air" if that makes sense.
That being said, this one you listed here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225126, may actually fit right on galaxius's predesigned bracket... It's worth looking into, however I don't have a fan like that to just try overnight but I may print it to see at least how close it fits..

 

I just came across this "Orbital fan duct" http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:278053
I like the design, but it has to be adapted a bit to fit the robo! Dos anybody have any experience with a cooling ring like this, could it be better than cooling from one side?

 

That's the same one I posted Ziggy. I thought so too.
What the heck, I'm going to print it right now and see if it fits on G's bracket. Just curious.
Edit: Nevermind, after looking at it closer it wont be a good fit.

 

I found this for all of us with an E3D head. I talked to the guy and got him to design one without the top block so it would mount correctly with our R1s. I am going to print it today, but it looks extremely promising.

 

I wonder if that model wouldn't remix well with this thing by Tesseract: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166452

I really like that Tesseract's fan mount uses the existing holes in the side of the carriage, and have been considering modifying it to add a fan shroud... Course that'll have to wait for when my printer's up and running again...

 

The Neousagi design won't fit as is. I'm pretty sure that shroud will need quite a bit of modification to fit the Robo in the Y direction. If it's mounted in the X direction it will take a chunk out of the X build dimension.

Measuring in Sketchup the horizontal distance from the E3D center to the shroud end is about 60mm. This would place the fan right in the middle of the back X linear bearing housing. It needs to be extended so that the fan fits behind the bearing. A few weeks ago I tried doing this with Sketchup but failed. I just could not get a design that was manifold and would slice. So I ended up with a simple conical shroud.


I will try again with Meshmixer to see if I can stretch and fit it. The space around the extruder is very tight and it will take some work to get it right. I really do like the Neousagi design because is does not fully envelope the hot end so we can still see what is going on.

 

That design looks like it would interfere with the E3D stock shroud. Does it all fit together well? If so, how does your fan shroud effect prints? It looks promising!

 

@SoLongSidekick,
Err - good question. I will measure the stock one to see if it interferes. My E3D fan shroud started with Tonycstech's modified shroud but I modified it to be sturdier on the back side and to hold a 12V LED strip.


the odd shape is because this fit the original fan holder position.


So far I think the shroud has helped. For the E3D it has no affect on the extruder temperature and I have noticed no fluctuations of the bed temperature. I replaced the Robo's original print fan with a much stronger one but I'm not sure it was necessary. It is so strong that I had to reduce the Max in Slic3r to 30%.

 

Oh that looks like it works beautifully! Could you provide the STLs for your setup? I was going to add LEDs at some point anyways and that looks perfect.