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Unresolved First layer Wavy

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Toro1966, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Thats the issue though is we cant see the stepper gears. Id think if those are turning the whole time and they dont stitter and pause when the filament lacks then we had better look at the tension and the hibbled.bolt first. Even inspect the hinge for cracks(plastic piece that hokds the bearing)
     
  2. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Geof. Definitely think it was an extruder problem. Tightened the screws and also cleaned the nozzle with cleaning filament.

    So I printed a test calibration print. I purposely printed it a little larger. Iknow that's kind of cheating but I wanted to see how the printer would do. Especially since this was the first thing I have printed using S3D. I would like you guys' opinion on tweaks. A couple of thoughts I have on it.
    1 - First layer is definitely not squished down enough. This was with Z offset at 0. What range should I put the z offset at? What do you guys run at? I know each printer is different, but it should give me a general idea.
    2 - It doesn't look like the filament is touching the outline in some places. In MC that was fixed by the overlap setting. I will try the z offset first because it might fix this as well, but if not, where is the overlap setting in S3D?
    3 - Bridging came out very well - as in it was complete - but there are some strings where it looked like it didn't quite make it. Those were very easy to remove and the bridge looks good. Are those strings avoidable, or should i even worry about them? Is there a setting to fix that on bridging?

    Thanks again for all of the help!
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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    1. I use m565 -.73.

    2.your z offset should take care of this but if your talking infill overlap its under the infill tab

    3.bridging is all about fan speed and nozzle temp. Colder nozzle temp higher fan speed works for me :)
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    here is one of my factory files if you want to look through it or modify it for your needs. I cant remember if thats my current one or not but its one of the ones I've used recently :D
     

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  5. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Geof! For the fff files, should i have multiple ones for each material - similar to MC?
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I am an odd bird and do a different fff for each filament and nozzle size i use. I also have the "every day" factory file :) lol
     
  7. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Geof. That's exactly what I was thinking - since each filament can require vastly different temps, settings, etc. Is there a good S3D for dummies to help me with all of these settings?
     
  8. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Also - where does the m565 command go and couldn't I just put that in the offset tab of the fff under gcode? It shows x, y, and z ith options to change each one.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Its under your start up scripts, i recommend everyone use that function :)
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    On their website s3d has alot of getting started videos.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  12. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    For bridging, when I added my dual fans that made a drastic difference. Also under temperature tab, I decrease the extruder temp just before the bridging layer starts by at least 5 degrees. There are also setting in the Other tab for bridging. If you plan to get it dialed in, I used this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12925. I also created a separate profile for bridging, mostly for reference, since only a few settings get modified.

    This guy has some pretty old but good videos on S3D:
     
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  13. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Ryan!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
     
  14. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    One more question - should I not have more than one process (FFF) under the processes block? Do I need to remove one? I have two in there now - my modified one and the one Geof sent me. Which will it default to or will it confuse it having two there?
     
  15. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Multiple processes can be used if printing multiple parts and want different settings for each part. It can also be used to change settings mid-print by Starting and Stopping printing at a certain height (Advanced Tab). One of the videos by The Hot End explains this pretty well, showing different infill and layer height for different parts.
     
  16. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    You can select a particular model by double-clicking the process and select the Select Models button in lower left corner. I believe it asks you which process you want to use when you Prepare to Print.
     
  17. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Ryan. Got it. Another question regarding z offset, whose concept seems to be kicking my butt, I have the z-offset (M565) command that was in the process file I got from Geof and it is -.74. I think it might need to go a little closer to the bed. Does that mean I need to make it .8 or .7 to get it closer to the bed?
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hey buddy -.70 would make it closer to the bed. Dont forget to have the -
     
  19. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Geof. It kills me. I have three degrees including two graduate degrees and that offset kicks my butt. I think it's all of the instructions - to include GCode WIki and S3D that say that a negative number will move the nozzle closer to the bed. I wish there was a graphic - like a set of axis with values that showed that graphically..
     
  20. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    I will say - there is absolutely no question about it in my opinion - S3D slices MUCH MUCH CLEANER than MC. The difference is night and day on print quality, etc on the same print using S3D. Even if I had no desire to modify all of the settings it has, it is simply better at what it does. Then again...it should be for $150!
     
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