1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Garolite Bed for Robo R2

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by adikted2astro, Nov 27, 2019.

  1. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2017
    Messages:
    260
    Likes Received:
    84
    So I honestly got tired of using glass. I love printing with glass, but I had to tape it to the bed on each side and I always had to use hairspray or glue stick, which I'm starting to hate. I am in the process of painting thew back of my glass sheets with flat black BBQ and Stove paint, but I wanted to be able to print while the paint cures. I also wanted to stop wasting time by taping the glass sheets to the bed, so I bought a Buildtak Flexplate for the V2 bed. This on is much larger than the other Flexplate systems (V1 bed) and cover the entire bed, corner to corner. I believe the size is 9" x 9" for the flexplate, maybe a tad smaller. Anyways, I also bought a sheet of garolite from Matterhackers (https://www.matterhackers.com/store...ld-surface-creality-cr-20-ender-3/sk/MTU2P9Z1). It's aLayerlock sheet that's 0.038" thick, and 9.25" x 9.25" square. The good thing about this is that if you have a good pair of serrated scissors - like the Milwaukee version they sell at Home Depot - you can easily cut the sheet to fit perfectly on the Builtak Flexplate.

    Here's the best thing about this bed, which is quickly becoming my favorite, I do not need to use any type of adhesion on it; no hairspray, no glue stick. Granted, so far I've only printed PLA on it, but it is saving me a ton of time. Bed temp is 55C and the PLA sticks right to it when hot, then comes off easily after the bed cools. It also does not leave a single trace of the print at all, similar to glass. One of the things I do not like about Buildtak PC sheets is that you will always see an imprint of the part in the sheet, which screws up the finish. I'm picky like that. This garolite sheet looks just as good as when I first put it on and the bottom of my prints is always fantastic. I just wanted to share my experience and provide some info. I also posted some pictures below. The funky star looking things are my mesh points for UBL and the writing on them is just so I can keep track of which point I am adjusting.

    Apparently garolite is good for nearly all plastics, especially Nylon, ABS, and PETG. I haven't tested these yet but I will soon enough. Granted, this is not a cheap upgrade. The Flexplate system is $100 and each sheet of garoliute is $40. But it's looking like I won't have to replace that sheet for a very long time. Also, because PLA prints so well on it, I don't need to remove the flexplate to get any of the parts off. I just use a plastic razor blade and they pop off so easily. I'm very impressed so far.

    4.jpg
    1.jpg
    3.jpg
    2.jpg
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  2. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    129
    Nice product. Is it flexible enough to be compatible with the R2 Flex Plate system (sold at partsbuilt.com)
     
  3. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2017
    Messages:
    260
    Likes Received:
    84
    As far as I know it is. I didn't buy my system from Partsbuilt. I bought directly from Buildtak and even though they said it would be 3-5 business days before it shipped, I got it 2 days after placing the order. It looks like the Partsbuilt one is the same thing. Also, they are the same price on the Buildtak website. The system is anyway ($95 -free shipping).

    You technically don't have to cut the garolite sheet at all. 9.25" x 9.25" sheet will fit in the R2 without causing any problems at all. But, I didn't want to have part of it sticking out since the bottom of it has transfer tape on it. The flexplate is still quite flexible after attaching the garolite, more than you would imagine. I'm printing a relatively large part on it right now on bare garolite. I can upload the timelapse after it's done (if I can upload something like that). Last night I printed 3 small filament spool clips at full speed (50 mm/s) the whole time; no speed reduction anywhere. I wanted to see if they would still stay on the garolite when printing fast (and I turned up my cooling fans too). They all printed perfectly without any problems. When they were done, I tried pulling up on them while the bed was still hot and they wouldn't budge. However, after the bed cooled to room temp (~20C), I just picked them up without a problem.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  4. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2017
    Messages:
    260
    Likes Received:
    84
    Well I don't think I can upload a video. But, it finished the print a few minutes ago and the print looks amazing. No warping at all and no part of it ever came off the bed. I can't take it off right now (I tried). It's still stuck pretty well. I'll go back in a couple of hours or maybe in the morning and see what's what. I will upload some pics though tomorrow for sure.
     
  5. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    129
    Videos won't be necessary. I was curious about the flexibility of the garolite sheet. Thanks for the feedback. Next time I get to a point of needing to replace the Buildtak sheet, I'll have a look into the garolite sheet.

    Another question comes to mind: What is the maximum temperature rating of the garolite?
     
  6. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2017
    Messages:
    260
    Likes Received:
    84
    I'm not quite sure what the max temp is, but I know garolite was originally intended for high temp materials that have a tendency to warp, like Nylon and ABS. So I would assume it can withstand high temps. But I do believe that when printing nylon on garolite, you actually don't need to heat the bed. I won't take it higher than 80C, but that's because my R2 tends to fry the wires that lead from the bed to the mainboard if I take it too high. Honestly, I don't really need to go that high, even when I print nylon. 70C is generally my max. I also just found out that if there happens to be any wear or damage to the surface of the garolite, then all I have to do is lightly sand it with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. I can confirm this works because I tried it on the slivers I cut off. The sandpaper smooths out the surface completely.

    By the way, I went out there this morning to check the print and I just picked it up off the bed, like it was just set on it. I'm VERY much liking this garolite sheet. Here's the print itself before taking it off the bed (below). I printed this with Matterhackers Pro Series Marble PLA. It took about 7 hours, 0.15 mm layer height, 50 mm/s, hotend at 208C, bed at 60C, max cooling fan speed was 25%. The cooling fan was low because I printed and installed some adapters to direct the flow better.

    R5.jpg
    R2.jpg

    And here is the bed and part after lifting it off:

    R3.jpg
    R4.jpg
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,522
    Likes Received:
    7,060
    You NEED bed heat for a lot less filaments than most people USE it for :)
    Do whatever makes your prints work
     
  8. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2017
    Messages:
    260
    Likes Received:
    84
    Exactly what I was thinking..........................................
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,522
    Likes Received:
    7,060
    Even I am guilty. You can totally print PLA on a cold bed. I never DO, but you can :)
    I use it for insurance on everything.
     
  10. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    129
    Very nice. Thank you @adikted2astro .
    As far as print bed temperatures go, I generally set it to 40 C or less.
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,864
    Likes Received:
    3,560
    I am a fan of garolite, things like nylon stick very well to the surface, without making it impossible to remove.
     
    tkoco likes this.
  12. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    129
    That's nice to know. Thank you.
     

Share This Page