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Hot end hits bed and carries on.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by adam skinner, Apr 29, 2018.

  1. adam skinner

    adam skinner New Member

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    good evening,

    i had my R2 delivered Friday, i had it all setup lovely, set my Z offset, test print went lovely, didnt remove the bed as it popped right off.

    for my next print i thought id do another test to see what it can do so printed a 3D benchy.

    everything was as normal but then as it calibrated itself 9 times, it then decided it would plunge into the bed and try to do it first line. I stopped it straight away, but not after its already damaged my bed.

    i restarted and reset my Z offset again, to which it had not changed and was still 5.7.

    so i started another one, i tried the wave vase, printed wonderfully, so again removed the print, making sure not to disturb the bed at all even though its removable, i do not really feel i should be redoing the Z offset every time...

    So i thought i just try one more time another test print but again soon as its calibrated it decided to plunge into the bed and damage it once again.. i am lost for words of how infuriating this is. ive spent £1500 on a printer that doesn't do something that my £100 mini printer does easily :(
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, It is a new printer you really need to be having the conversation with Robo directly (open a ticket with them -- a CALL is better than an email, but I understand if that doesn't work out).

    To clarify -- everyone here is a printer owner/user like you and if you want to troubleshoot this I and the others will be happy to help you do that :) However... under warranty I'd be talking to Robo.

    Here is their troubleshooting docs in case you want to review that -- but call them.

    http://support-site.readthedocs.io/en/latest/R2/Troubleshooting/index.html

    at a guess the IR sensor is dirty or loose or faulty. Make sure you did the Z offset wizard and the fine tuning wizard.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not uncommon for things to get knocked about in shipping... mine looked like it was used as the rugby BALL* before it got to my door. It had a few things knocked out of place... fortunately I was able to reseat everything and get it going.


    P.S. Welcome to the forums! Hopefully you can get past this and if you want to we can help you dig in.

    *in a match between teams that seriously hated each other
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also, is the point where it hits the bed after it prints the priming line or at that point? Just curious really. They do not use or consider the Z offset at the point where they are printing the priming line (the line along the edge before it starts to print). I was wondering if that might ever be a problem.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. adam skinner

    adam skinner New Member

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    cheers Mark for the speed advice, im Uk based but ive thrown an email there way.

    its just frustrating, it was perfectly intact, box was damaged at all, so couldnt be shipping.

    i have redone the Z offset and the fine tuning numerous times now, and the head just keeps going in, even after i do them and perfect it, i could then print the test lines, then try and do a circle, and its like it drops down a few points because the bead being printed is now being forced out rather than a nice bead.
     
  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    The infrared sensor that does the leveling can be confused by some types of lighting and cause that.
     
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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    IMO its the G36 in the last update. If you strip that out of the start up scripts and do a manual bed level myself (and many others with the same complaint) have not seen the "dive bomb" happen anymore. I dont know why but the G36 doesn't seem to play nice with the printer. Will ping @Jerry RoBo 3D and direct him here.
     
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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    This just reinforces my opinion that G36 was not necessary or even a good idea. Do what @Geof recommends, level (tram) the bed as close as you can mechanically at the four corners., use G28 (Homing) and G29 (Auto-leveling) instead of G36. Make sure you manually set the Home Offset, the Wizard may work too, I just do it myself manually.
     
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  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'll be honest, I'd mentioned my opinions on the G36 causing the dive bomb, but I know not why so its just an opinion at this point. I removed auto level and the G36 all together on both the R2 and C2 and can happily print away with no issues. Not sure what will happen with their update and the G29, hopefully it still works?
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    They did not change G28 (Home) and G29 (Auto-level) functionality, just added G36. To be completely transparent I have only used G29 (Auto-Level) once since replacing my PEI sheet over two months ago. I just start each print with a G28 (Homing) and then print. There is no need to relevel for each and every print if you are using a more modern leveling method, except that Robo has chosen to remain on the most rudimentary leveling scheme Marlin offers.
     
    #11 WheresWaldo, Apr 30, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2018
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mine was in a pristine box, but had two of the gantry rods knocked out of the steel frame. :)
    Shipping is harsh. Just suggesting that you make sure everything is still secure. @Geof and @WheresWaldo are the R2 guys to talk with. Hopefully you get a timely response from email. @Jerry RoBo 3D has been working on getting them better at that. Being across the pond does make this more of a challenge and more expensive to just ring them.
     
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  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @adam skinner also try getting a dry small paint brush and cleaning off the IR sensor. It can get a film of plastic dust on it from the printing process and that can have an effect on the sensor. Generally speaking since it is an IR sensor ambient lighting will have no effect on how it levels, but obviously if the bulbs you use to illuminate the room produce light in or near the IR spectrum (highly unlikely) it can affect the sensor and provide false readings.

    Without heating up anything or trying to print go to the web interface and in the terminal reset the Home Offset to 0. You can do this by using the command M206 Z0, once it is zeroed then a G1 Z0 will move the extruder to the point where it triggered the IR sensor. If the IR sensor never triggered it will try to drive the head into the bed, otherwise it should be 4-6 mm above the bed. Then manually move the extruder to the back left corner (by hand) and use the thumbwheel and the provided paper gauge to set the extruder on the bed. manually move the extruder in the X and Y only to the next corner and use the adjustment screw to raise or lower the bed to get it to the same level as the left rear using the same paper gauge. Once you have all four corners done repeat the process again to make sure all points are level and weren't affected by moving the other corners. At that point you are as mechanically level as the printer will allow.

    To manually set Home Offset go back to G1 Z0 then you can use the movement wizard to lower the extruder while counting how much you have lowered it. If you issue a M206 (with no arguments) in the terminal screen you will get a response that will include a Z value that is negative, the positive value of that number is the home offset and then can be set using a M206 Zn.nnn. Don't forget to make the value semi-permanent by issuing a M500 to save that value to EEPROM. You have just set the Home Offset manually and it will survive printer power off.

    I will also suggest you follow @Geof's advice and remove all references to G36 in the OctoPrint (Web Interface) scripts and any instances that might be in your slicer startup scripts, use G28 to home and G29 to auto-level in it's place.
     
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  14. Jerry RoBo 3D

    Jerry RoBo 3D Administrator
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    Hi Adam,

    We are sorry to hear you are experiencing this issue. Someone from the Robo Customer Service team or the Engineering team will be getting in touch with you shortly.
     
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  15. Jerry RoBo 3D

    Jerry RoBo 3D Administrator
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    HI Adam,

    You mentioned you are getting a positive value for your Z offset. Is this correct?

    This indicates the Software Update to Robo OS 2.0 may not have completed fully.

    Can you confirm what software version you are running on your R2? To check this go to "Utilities" then "Update."
     
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  16. Jerry RoBo 3D

    Jerry RoBo 3D Administrator
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    Hi Adam, I have some more follow up for you.

    The comments from the other community members are very helpful and no doubt will lead to a resolution. But I would like very much if we can learn from your case before you try anything else.

    So please, before following any other resolution pathways, respond to my questions above. And then please give the following a try.

    In the octoprint web dashboard, go to the terminal window and send an M502 command. This will reset your EEPROM settings to default.

    Then send an M500 command to save these default settings.

    Now do the Z offset wizard and write down the new Z offset value (will likely be same as before but interesting if there is a big difference).

    Now Back to the terminal window. Please send a G36 command. The printer will go through several motions and report back some values in the terminal window.
    Please run this sequence 3 times and then save the terminal log and send to me at jerry@robo3d.com. You can also post here in this thread.

    Finally, go ahead and run some brief prints, one after the other, and see if the issue continues to happen.

    Please let me know if you have any questions.
     
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  17. Jerry RoBo 3D

    Jerry RoBo 3D Administrator
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    Hi Adam,

    Did you have a chance to give this a try yet? Please let me know if you are stuck on something or need me to explain anything better.
     
  18. adam skinner

    adam skinner New Member

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    @WheresWaldo thank you, and thank you to @mark tomlinson @Geof for the help, took me a while to understand the G28/29, i went over the whole process of resetting the home offset then re levelled manually.

    I have added in G28 in the line instead of G36, and the first print was good, slightly squashed first layer, but at least i have basis of what works now.

    if i was to add G29 also into the code, how would i interpret that just on a new line below? currently it is as follows:


    ; set to millimeters
    G21
    ; set to absolute mode
    G90
    ; zero extruder
    G92 E0
    ; turn off fans
    M107
    ;non blocking heatup of extruder and bed
    M104 S230
    M140 S60
    ; Robo Leveling
    G28
    ; pause for 2 seconds
    G4 S2
    ; move bed down 15mm
    G1 Z15 F300
    ; move to front left corner
    G1 X10 Y1 F7200
    ; heat to priming line temp
    M109 S255
    M140 S100
    ; move bed to printing position
    G1 Z0.3
    ; print 190mm priming line
    G1 X190 E15.0 F500
    ; move bed down
    G1 Z15 F300
    ; zero extruder
    G92 E0
    ; set movement speed
    G1 F7200
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    kinda like this :D

    G28;home axis
    G29; Autolevel


    (that will not do the robo pre heats and will not do the priming line- I use a skirt so it doesn't bother me any)

    In your script above it would be on the next line under the G28.

    This is my start up script for the R2 and C2

    "G28; home all axis"

    thats it :D (old school works ya know)

    @Jerry RoBo 3D is Jerry who works for Robo. I believe he had some things he would like you try in case you missed his messages
     
  20. Jerry RoBo 3D

    Jerry RoBo 3D Administrator
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    @Geof Thanks

    @adam skinner Please let me know if you have some time to do the tests I suggested above.
     

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