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How To: Cura 15.04 Setup

Discussion in 'Software' started by Mike Kelly, Jan 9, 2015.

  1. JTM88

    JTM88 New Member

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    I started using Cura last night, and all of these settings are working great. However I noticed that I can see and feel the pattern of the infill on the outside on the print. What settings should I adjust to fix this?
     

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  2. Nick Cherone

    Nick Cherone New Member

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    I'm in the same boat... I started to use Cura last night as well and same results. I think i'll increase the shell thickness and run another test piece. Did you have any luck finding a solution?

    Photo Aug 05, 9 12 15 PM.jpg
     
    #122 Nick Cherone, Aug 5, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
  3. nonmindo

    nonmindo New Member

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    I just got my Robo 3d, barely got it configured, but was gonna try out cura.....I have the latest version v15.06.xxxx. I didnt see a "reparap" or "other" option when setting up the software on first launch, the ONLY options were all Ultimaker. Anyone else notice this or did i over look something?
     
    Rob Stachowicz likes this.
  4. Nick Cherone

    Nick Cherone New Member

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    Im new to this too so i don't want to mislead anyone. You may want to install/try 15.04 instead. The top dogs on this forum are still working out the details regarding Cura 15.06 and Robo compatibility.
     
  5. nonmindo

    nonmindo New Member

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    Actually, I did some poking around on Cura's github and there is a way, its just not "automated"

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Making profiles for other printers
    There are two ways of doing it. You can either use the generator here or you can use this as a template.

    • Change the machine ID to something unique
    • Change the machine_name to your printer's name
    • If you have a 3D model of your platform you can put it in resources/meshes and put its name under platform
    • Set your machine's dimensions with machine_width, machine_depth, and machine_height
    • If your printer's origin is in the center of the bed, set machine_center_is_zero to true.
    • Set your print head dimensions with the machine_head_shape parameters
    • Set the nozzle offset with machine_nozzle_offset_x_1 and machine_nozzle_offset_y1
    • Set the start and end gcode in machine_start_gcode and machine_end_gcode
    • If your printer has a heated bed, set visible to true under material_bed_temperature
    Once you are done, put the profile you have made into resources/settings.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Source: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/README.md
     
  6. Nick Cherone

    Nick Cherone New Member

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    Nice!
    I've been following this thread too.
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/cura-15-06-15-06-02-for-robo-3d-r1.6339/
     
  7. nonmindo

    nonmindo New Member

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  8. JTM88

    JTM88 New Member

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    Sorry I should have updated, I increased the shell thickness to 1.2mm and the problem was solved.
     
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Jumped into the Cura 15.04 pool tonight. I have a new R1 and still new to all of this and wanted to see what was different from MC. I setup everything like Mike suggested. I wanted to change the temp for the bed and extruder to match MC's default of 210C for extruder and 50C for bed, but kept the 220C/70C setting that was there for PLA. Maybe someone can explain that diff to me. Still using up the blue PLA that came with the printer. I know it's not a great quality PLA, but what I have for now. First I exported the cal cube from MC (couldn't find where MC keeps the preloaded stl library files on my PC) and printed it off. Couple questions and issues. Already found the answer to the end gcode to move the bed out like MC did when the print was finished so I didn't have to reach behind. Thanks for that everyone.

    1) heats the bed then the extruder and not both like MC. Is there a way for it to do both at once? What's the benefit doing it separately? Can you also do a preheat manually? I would preheat bed and then spray some 80s hair spray on the platform prior to print.

    2) autolevel worked great. I may need to change my z-offset a bit since it didn't create the outer skirt lines as nice as MC. I only got one instead of 3 even though I changed the setting in Cura like Mike mentioned. Seems to have been printing a bit high on first level, but bottom of part looked good. See pic below.

    3) Is there a setting change or something to keep it from leaving boogers on the plate when autolevel? I always wait until it checks the back points and scrap off the middle boogers so not to mess with print. I got the same with MC.

    4) bottom looks so much better using Cura. Is that because of the diff in slicing? Maybe MC using lower res on first layers. See diff in pics.

    5) top final layers seemed to print messy when bridging the gaps of the 20% infill pattern. Not sure if that was from the higher temps or not. I added a compare below as well but the right half gaps are my fault (see later note). Maybe I need to add another top layer in the settings? It's just the default so far. Maybe I should cal my extruder to make sure I'm not under extruding. since there are slight gaps on the left side of the top of Cura print and the MC has fine gaps as well.

    6) Heat diff. So I got used to waiting just about 30secs before trying to pop the print using MC. I tried that with the new temp settings in Cura and the part was still very soft. I squished the right half and that is why the right top has bigger gaps than the left half. The sides look the same either in Cura or MC. Not sure what the higher temp gives me, but I will have to wait a lot longer before trying to pop off.

    My pics has the MC print on left and Cura print on right. Sorry for long post.

    Bottom: MC on left Cura on Right
    bottom.jpg

    Top: MC on left Cura on Right
    top.jpg
     
    #129 danzca6, Aug 8, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The first layer from cura looks nice. Just gotta adjust the z offset value.

    You can adjust the temperatures no problem.

    The startup sequence is because some printers max out the power supply heating the bed. The robo has ample power to heat both at once. I don't think it's possible to change that startup sequence.

    You can preheat if you enable the pronterface UI. Then set the temps from there.

    The top fill issues just needs more top/bottom layers
     
  11. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Mike, thank you for the response. I know I could change the temp down to what MC has by default, but didn't know if there would be an advantage of the new higher temps in Cura. I didn't know what pronterface UI was, but wow, that helps a lot to have on. Now I can preheat, push the bed out and spay it. Huge help. Thanks.

    The bottom printing from MC is odd that the width of the lines are so big and the gap. I do like Cura better because of that, but not sure why MC does that.

    I finally found the Bottom/Top thickness (mm) setting and changed it from 0.6 to 1 to get 5 solid layers on top and bottom instead of 3. Too bad you can't define top and bottom separately like in MC.

    My fix for end code to push the bed out to get to part didn't work. I used G90 X0 Y0 as mentioned in this thread, but exporting the g-code from MC I think it should be G1 X10 Y200 put before turning off the steppers with M84. I will run another and see how that goes.

    Start code, mine first goes to center, touches plate, then goes to x0 and y-max with z on the plate before going into autolevel. How do I avoid that? Having the nozzle that close to the plate is odd. Should I put in the G1 Z5 F5000 to lift nozzle in my Cura code? Can I play with the sequence using the Pronterface UI? Still learning G-code so sorry for the rookie questions.

    MC Start Code
    ; settings from start_gcode
    G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    M109 S210 ; set the extruder temp and wait
    G28 X0 Y0 Z0; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle
    M565 Z0
    G29 ; probe the bed

    Cura Start Code
    G21 ;metric values
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
    M107 ;start with the fan off
    ;-- Start Original Code
    ;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    ;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
    ;-- End Original Code
    ;-- Start Custom AutoLevel Code
    G28 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    M565 Z-1.0 ;Define a 1.0mm offset, this may need adjusting
    G29 ;run autolevel routine
    ;-- End Custom AutoLevel Code
     
  12. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Ok. Seems like adding the G1 Z5 F5000 in the start code got the nozzle off the bed and behaved more like the MC startup. The G1 X10 Y200 in the end code also put the bed back where I like it when the print is finished like MC did. I do get an error now that maybe means I screwed something up. :)

    < Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.00 d: 0.25
    < planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.00 z: 1.00
    < echo:endstops hit: Z:-0.21
    < Error:No Line Number with checksum, Last Line: 27

    The change to bottom/top layer did the trick. They both look great. One more issue though and I am not sure if this is a Cura issue or a printer calibration issue. The side corners and top corners on the left side of the part are perfect and sharp. The right side corners are gnarled a bit and the top right corners create a bit of a horn. I got this on the back right corner with MC on my first print. Not sure why I see it on just one side. I do have the latest firmware on the printer. Oh, one thought is that I am still using the stock filament and stock filament holder on the back right of the printer. That is the only correlation I can think of as to why the right side is messed up, but seems to be a stretch. Here is a pic.

    top2.jpg
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Several things come to mind about the little tail in the back corner. It could be a very slight over-extrusion or maybe not enough retraction and it leaves a bit extra every layer until it builds up like a little snow drift in that particular corner.
     
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That can also be a symptom of needing more cooling. If this was on the side without the fan, consider doing a dual parts fan upgrade
     
  15. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Well, it's the right hand side of the part. So the fan should be cooling the back right and it is doing the same as the front right side. Hmmm, now who would have a dual fan upgrade model for me to print out? LOL! I do have your design to print along with the fans and wiring sitting on my desk. I am just trying to get the calibration dialed in better before making it. Maybe it's the chicken before the egg situation.

    I did read some of the troubleshooting threads and saw the links to some of the external sites that show pics of different issues. I have a few things to try out the next time I have a free moment. Probably not a Cura issue though. So I will take any further issue with the print to the troubleshooting section of the forum. Switching to Cura has really forced me to learn more about what settings mean and a bit about G-code. Thanks for the write-up.

    Now is it an option to save off the profile for ROBO3D R1 once set in Cura and share it with someone so they just load and go? Or is that something else?

    Thanks Waldo and Mike!!!
     
  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  17. NeuralChris

    NeuralChris Member

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    For anyone trying to get this setup on Cura 15.06.03 for Mac, here's what I did.
    1. Make sure Cura is closed.
    2. Open Finder and click on Applications on the left.
    3. Right click the Cura icon, and select "Show Package Contents".
    4. Inside of the package, select Resources -> cura -> resources -> settings.
    5. Download the zip file I've attached here and extract the robo-3d-r1.json file to the folder you've opened.
    6. Open Cura and run through the Add Machine wizard which should have an option for Robo 3D R1 now.
    7. Enjoy!
     

    Attached Files:

  18. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering if there was a way to get the basic setup profile published to the community so it was more of a download and install. I may have to look at this tonight to see if I can get something similar to work on the PC.

    Dumb question, but has anyone found a way to get the build plate image to have the ROBO3D logo on the back like they have for the Ultimakers in Cura? The only reason I ask is that at times when reviewing a model prior to printing I get lost to where the back of the y-axis is at so that I properly orient the part.
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  20. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks @WheresWaldo. Looks like I some playing to do tonight and see how this works. I appreciate the response. Browsing that thread, it looks like the correct direction to go.
     

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