Answered I need precision and speed. Upgrade the R1+ or build from scratch?

I have an R1+. So far, I have upgraded to quality x and y rods, upgraded to premium bearings, and replaced extruder fans constantly.

I need a machine that can print 24/7 with speed, reliability, and as much accuracy as possible.

So, am I better off further modifying my R1+ with a bowden setup, better stepper motors (smaller step degree), stiffen the bed and new thicker glass, more powerful bed heater (I print in ABS), or building a machine from scratch.

I was thinking something similar to an ultimaker, where the build plate is the z axis, or perhaps the build plate is stationary. The models I print tend to get tall and skinny, so moving the build plate itself is less than ideal. I've compensated by slowing down the R1+ to about 2600mm/min to get decent results (and dramatically slashed jerk and acceleration values). Faster than that and there is too much distortion in the prints.

Would love some input. I do have a table-top CNC machine, so I'm not afraid to build from scratch if that is what it takes.

Thanks.

 

So are you suggesting any particular printer, or build from scratch? I like saving money, but I need results in reasonable time. Is there such a website to guide with the construction?

 

Not to say the ROBO hasn't been a good printer, of course, but am I better off buying a ready made unit, or dive into making one myself?

 

Any recommendations? My max model height is about 200mm. I surely don't mind spending a couple hundred extra for a printer that is a workhorse.

 

If your end goal is to make income off your printer(s) then I would advise buying one with a proven record and GOOD support.

If you are a tinkerer who gets his enjoyment from building, modifying, adjusting, and experimenting than go for the build from a kit first and maybe try improving that later.

No printer (that's affordable by individuals) is a plug and play, sell and cash the checks ready.

Speed is the one factor everyone I show my prints to at work groans over. They get interested and ask lots of questions then they ask the inevitable question "how log did that one take to print?" The interest spark goes out right after the answer.

"Reasonable time" is still going to measured in hours most sometimes.

 

Agree with Rigmarol -

If your intent is to make money, you are losing revenue while you design / build / debug the printer.

Whether for business or hobby, there is no guarantee your home brew printer will deliver the quality you're after.

If you have a bunch of parts laying around and like to tinker - go for it.

I've done a few machine shop CNC projects. My rule of thumb is to double your original parts cost estimate and multiply your original time estimate by 4.

Finally, when you're ready to upgrade again, a purchased printer will have a higher resale value than someone's garage project with the same $$ invested.

 

I need precision of models that are mainly cylindrical, about 25mm diameter to approx 160mm high, but have a lot of geometry that has to be accurate. Since I've optimized my models to print to the absolute best of the ROBO's capability, they have lots of flowing, rounded edges. Lots of horizontal holes for screws and such, and I have modified the models to require minimal support. I have to print in ABS, no other material I have tested works as well for my application, or is as repeatable. I require the filament to be open-source compatible, no proprietary cartridges and such nonsense.

Since the models have a small footprint, I'd like to setup to run batches that last about 23 hours, so I have a daily routine of taking off finished parts, getting ready for the next run. Size of the unit is no concern, nor is noise. I would prefer a more sealed chamber, as temps can swing a bit in my shop, but I can deal with those swinging temps if need be.

Yes, I'm hoping to make money. I'd post a pic of the model I'm trying to print, but I haven't finished my DIY patent pending yet. The ROBO has done well at working my prototypes, but if I get into production, I'm going to 3D print the first couple thousand before dropping $150k on injection molding. I'm fully expecting to need a half dozen printers running 24/7 to keep up.

The ROBO has me tinkering with it constantly from breakdowns, and for mods that have to be done to get good results.

Price range for a "production" quality printer would be ideally $2000-$3500 per printer.

Of course, my idea (and the last 2 years of R&D) could totally fail, but I'm mere weeks away from finding out


ETA: The ROBO can now print in high enough quality where my first small run for beta testing will be done with the ROBO, albeit slowly. I'm sure a high quality unit will have no trouble, but the 200-300 micron accuracy of X and Y are killing me.

 

Oh, come on. Something must be good at ABS! Other than zortax. I was looking that one up, looks like the CS is practically non-existent. If I can tune the ROBO to print in ABS well, there MUST be something that can have better XY accuracy!

 

It looks like you just need the 3D printers to act as a temporary "bridge" between your prototype and full production using injection molding.

Have you checked into the cost of having these first couple of thousand parts machined from a machinable plastic? Or cost of having a company 3D print them for you?

Unless you have an ongoing need for those printers, multiple 3D printers in the $2k - $3k range are going to leave you with a lot of unused capital equipment at the end of that limited run.

 

Unless there is another material that is heat resistant (think left on the dash in a car in summer heat), chemical resistant, durable, can be threaded, and is available in a bright yellow/orange/red (safety) color!

 

Yes, the parts cannot be machined, only 3D printed or injection molded, and the injection molding would be complicated molds (I was quoted about $60k in molds alone as the cheapest quote). Custom 3D printing was too expensive, putting the cost per model too high for re-sale.

Plus, I'm not printing them all up at once, I'll get a hundred or so ready, then start selling. That way I don't have tons of money tied up in inventory.

Yes, the 3D printing is a bridge between beta and injection molding, but I would have to setup my own injection molding "factory" to make them cheap enough in the quantity I need. The quotes I had come back for injection molding put me at about $250k for the molds, startup, and enough pieces to drive the cost per unit down.

I just don't have that quarter million lying around is the problem.

And to my amazement, the 3D printed part is STILL a LOT cheaper (about 10x cheaper) in materials and electricity than an injection molded unit @ 10k units ordered! What I can print for 50 cents in plastic, would cost me $5 per molded piece. The 3D printed parts are strong enough, durable enough, just...slow...

 

Search for "colored delrin" I've machined it on my lathe. Holds tolerance very well and you can tap the holes. It's tough stuff. Often used for gears in products.

 

Can't be machined (well, it could with a 5 axis, but it would be expensive), see above post.