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Unresolved Issue to insert the PLA into the extruder

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by sev7en, May 30, 2015.

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  1. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    My dears,
    thanks for all that tips!

    To have a better quality:
    -) I have to change the default filament as no so good (I have some ordered also ABS)
    -) In Advance control I have to change for Layers the voice
    ---) Number of Solid Layers top -- to 10?
    ---) Number of Solid Layers bottom - to 10?
    -) The infill density should be? Now it is 2 and... the type? GRID is the best?


    Thanks,
     
    #41 sev7en, Jun 3, 2015
  2. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    I use grid. I usually run infill at 15%. I would not do top and bottom layers at 10. For bottom I use 3 and for top I use 4.
     
    #42 jbigler1986, Jun 3, 2015
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on how solid you need the model to be.
    Top and bottom layers same thing.. how much surface do you need? If you can live with less than a millimeter 3 or 4 is fine.
    (I am assuming a 0.4 nozzle here with a 0.2 layer thickness, I run 0.8 and 0.4 routinely so 3-4 layers is plenty in my case).
     
    #43 mark tomlinson, Jun 3, 2015
  4. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    #44 sev7en, Jun 4, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 4, 2015
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    ABS can be a bit hit or miss on bridging. Stick with PLA for now
     
    #45 Mike Kelly, Jun 4, 2015
  6. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    Mike, hello. Unfortunately it is exactly the same issue I had with the PLA: perfect basement and almost the body but the top is fuzzy.
     
    #46 sev7en, Jun 4, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to find the best temperature for printing the ABS that works with bridging (like mike said ... it can be a bit of a guessing game).
    You also probably want the parts cooling fan IS running when bridging. That helped mine. You don't want it running for the entire print... not with ABS.

    P.S. ABS is seldom as easy as getting a new spool, throwing it on and hitting print. More so if you have not practiced with it.
     
    #47 mark tomlinson, Jun 4, 2015
  8. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    Thanks, it means, it's "normal" the top is harder to print than the other parts?
    I moved to the ABS as I read it's better than the PLA but maybe... maybe not :p
     
    #48 sev7en, Jun 4, 2015
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    ABS is much more temperature sensitive than PLA so it is harder to print everywhere. Thin/flat sections are probably most difficult (without a heated chamber). This is because the temperature will fall more rapidly on those types of shapes.

    Better how? It has different material properties. Depending on what you are making and what you will use it for ABS might be 'better' or PLA could be the winner.

    http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
    http://www.tridprinting.com/Compare-PLA-ABS/

    Is iron better than copper or steel? :) How about aluminum? You get the idea.
     
    #49 mark tomlinson, Jun 4, 2015
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Bridging is very difficult for a beginner. Either print with support material or add a second fan for cooling.
     
    #50 Mike Kelly, Jun 4, 2015
  11. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    Dear Mark,
    yes, it is clear your mind, sorry... "better than...?" it's about the contest. I am look for a material hard to break (the item you see, it should be like a kensington to lock the HP Slate 21" without that feature) I will take a look to the links above, thank you.
     
    #51 sev7en, Jun 4, 2015
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #52 mark tomlinson, Jun 4, 2015
  13. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    #53 sev7en, Jun 4, 2015
  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Its going to be hard to print that top especially with ABS. and even PLA will be hard because the robo3d's PLA cooling fan isn't very good. You can print a duct for it http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431160 which can help ( for PLA )

    You could try printing it with Support turned on. then you will have to break the support structures off.

    I would try printing something easier to start with that doesn't have a bridge/overhang like that..until you get it dialed in on normal prints that overhang top is going to be real hard.
     
    #54 KTMDirtFace, Jun 4, 2015
  15. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    Thank you, it needs times... just a curiosity, all the 3d printers have that issue or there are models without?
     
    #55 sev7en, Jun 5, 2015
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Models that use a heated chamber would (perhaps) be less troublesome in this case.
    You can probably print that in PLA, with ABS... you need to minimize the printer from drafts and add some external heat (an IR lamp will help). Every situation will be unique because there is no controlled environment (which is what a heated chamber tries to achieve). ABS is simply very temperature sensitive.

    Take baby steps with ABS. You need to learn its foibles (the things that what make it weird compared to other filament types).
    If you really need prints now and don't have the time to deal with ABS then switch back to PLA?
     
    #56 mark tomlinson, Jun 5, 2015
  17. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    Dear Mark,
    it is clear, thanks for your kindness. I looked for the ABS as I read it is stronger than the PLA: I am creating an hook for the HP Slate to lock that AIO to the desk as it is without the kesington. I will revert back to the PLA as you suggested.

    Kindly,
     
    #57 sev7en, Jun 5, 2015
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, the Alloy 910 will certainly be strong enough for this I would imagine.
    I know you were going to look into that and until you do I would suggest practicing with the PLA :)

    Once you get it printing correctly with PLA, switching to the 910 will be trivial. It pretty much prints exactly like PLA other than the print temperature: Print Temperature = 245° C bed temp = 30 - 65C (I used 50C) and by that I mean that it behaves like PLA print and doesn't have any of the oddities that ABS normally exhibits.

    Edit: http://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene-ABS/Polycarbonate-PC/
    PolyCarb is pretty darn tough as well. I forgot about it.
     
    #58 mark tomlinson, Jun 5, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2015
  19. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    It's a wonderful world to discover... thanks Mark and thank to that great community! :p
     
    #59 sev7en, Jun 5, 2015
  20. sev7en

    sev7en Member

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    Good morning,
    I don't know really what's happened but the printer is started to do a strange mode.
    When I launch a printer it does the first setup layer perfectly (the one to make che border) but when it starts to print the object it's like it starts to do that some mm highter then the bed for that it doesn't go well.

    What's happened? I repeat, the border is printed perfectly...
     
    #60 sev7en, Jun 10, 2015
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