Jeff's printer has arrived

Well I got another first I think as far as the ROBO 3D goes at least posting wise. This was all done in a single print by injecting some Repetier GCode commands into the Slic3r GCode created automatically.

As you can see in the pic below I am currently dealing with a Y axis slippage this has nothing to do with the code I used but more a disfunction of either the stepper motor or the drivers for the Y axis al ready tightened the belts so I know that is not the issue. Hopefully I can get some assistance and get this straightened out soon.

Print specs:
PLA colors: RED , GLOW in the DARK, BLUE
Temp: 180 first layer; 175 other layers
Resolution: 200 micron
Object: 15mm calibration cube; SINGLE print with GCode added to allow for changing of filaments while print is active but paused; Each color 5 mm in height
Issues: Y shifting due to disfunction of Y axis mechanics/electronics yet to be resolved; no others
Result: Well you let me know. I think it is cool even with the Y shift.

 

Fixed my y slippage issue and this is what it should look like
pretty impressed actually it looks good
The first is a before and after my fix

 

Well I welcomed myself into the world of ABS starting off with dayglow yellow. WOW brite stuff anyway 4th attempt on this my first ABS print first three were my bad forgot to change settings related to ABS but I think I got them all now here is a pic of the first layer I think I got the bed level about perfect.
that what it looks like if I have my LED turned out but it does actaully look good I will post more when you can see what it is going to be.

 

well that was the beginning and this was the end looks good I like it this is with no heated chamber and it could have come out worse anyway here they are it was 193.74 mm tall

 

Oh so behind the times Mike LOL did that already in the projects section

http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...-printing-process-detailed-and-explained.930/

 

Now, I have to add a Post Script adding the changing of filament types as well LOL

 

Well as I said here are the pics of my PLA sandwich

Black ABS
Red PLA
Yellow ABS

in a 15mm cube

 

Yea Mike a tad behind you seem? haha

 

here are pics of my bed levelers in action on the original bed layout so as long as the mounting holes to the rail remain the same and a nut is used to hold it down it should work smoothly I simply replaced the standoff( white in my case) with my bed leveler

I have changed it a bit and it is more stable

the old way I had to use a screw driver to hold the bolt in place while it was adjusted and it ws awkward to say the least but it did work. I resolved that now it works great

The old way was the bolt went through the rail through the bedleveler and teh bed and was held down by the locking nut but the bolt would spin when I tried to adjust the nut.

Now I do this
bolt through the rail then I put the lower half on the bolt I then place a flat washer and a regular nut on it and tighten that down the bolt essentially becomes just a stud at that point I then pu ton the spring and the top part of the leveler and then the bed section then a spring washer and the locking nut on top.

Now I can loosen or tighten the nut and it adjust the bed up or down I don't have to worry about the loose bolt from underneath any more it is much easier to do

here are the pics they are older but the verbage above should explain how they mount now

 

Been a while since I posted some cool pics but even though this didn't turn out perfect I guess some residual stress caused it to warp even though it did not lift but warp it did so ican't actually fir it together nice and this was the best I could do I still think it turned out really cool looking gonne try again with a hollow body and teh stress should be reduced and I won't go through as much filament this is big and it was done at 20% fill took over 35 hours
enjoy
Aprroximate size 11.5" wide x 9.25"+ long x 5.5" tall done in PLA 200/195

 

adding my 50micron print of the Reaper, as it turns out printed did do this one a while back and he told me I was going to be disappointed in the print because the quality of the model was poor and I do have to agree it does lack in detail in some places.

I said I was doing it more for the 50 microns things as far as that goes I do like it alot
the back is my favorite part

The front does leave a bit to be desired as the model was not that detailed This print was done hollow so there was no support basicallly just hollow walls so any horizontal planes were going to be a bit less than optimal but overall the 50micron print does work well on the robo and based on what I saw I even think I could tweak mine even a bit lower maybe even 25 now that I know what to look for.
down side it take a hell of a long time to print.
This one is 42mm x 32mm x 73mm and it took 8 hours and it is hollow so just walls and it still took that long


The texture is very detailed in this section it looks like actually carved granite or something I can barely see any layer's except when I turn it in the light sometimes I get a glimmer of horizontal lines but for the most part they're almost always invisible

 

ok how that was a 50 micron how about a 25 and a 10 micron print had to do something very basic with these only to see if it would work and did something that would let me look at the layers so I did a hollow pyramid so it was just the sides and it was under 15mm tall so very tiny

25 micron was over 700 layers
10 micron was over 1400 layers

I have been told by someone I trust that the human eye can only distinguish 40microns or larger and this was the case here no in the images in my previous post at 50microns you can definitely see the layers but barely especially in the top part of the photo.

In these I had to do something a bit different in addition to the visual thing what i noticed visually was
25 micron print if you rotate it the glimmer that move across seemed to follow in paths that would have been layers even when rotating it at different abgles to the light it still reflected along the"paths of the layers"
10 micron print this was no longer the case the reflection basically looked very very uniform at all angles. looking at the area directly it appeared almost just rough sort of like wet dry sand paper is sort of rough too.

The thing I could tell was if I dragged my finger nail across them
25 micron I could hear and feel the click click click as I moved over the layers and it was definite and very little noise if I moved parallel to the layers
10 micron not nearly as much and it was really similar in all directions

I used the same process to get my first layer looking right as I have recommended to many people
(SEE it does work LOL)
and simply lowered the layer height to get these prints

AND YES THE TIP COULD USE SOME WORK BUT I WAS NOT FOCUSED ON THAT I WANTED A EASY PRINT THAT FOCUSED ON THE LAYERS


These are the 25micron prints


These are the 10 micron print



ENJOY

 

MY namesake in fullscale from the printbed with full supports then cleaned up over 34 hours to print




Support material collected

Support with tesseract showing how much

 

I think you probably have the worlds longest 3D Print on a RoBo3D Printer!