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Leadscrew-driven X-axis?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Sekwel, Dec 8, 2015.

  1. Sekwel

    Sekwel New Member

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    I've been toying around with the idea of modding my R1+ as described in the title. First of all, I do know/acknowledge that a belt-driven system is just fine, that a leadscrew coupled to the existing stepper motor would be very slow, and that I'm better off not messing with things.

    Unfortunately, I wish to continue with the idea regardless. I've managed to modify models for the end pieces to the X-axis, and could print them out and assemble the entire thing in a few hours. What's left is to consider the other changes I would need to make.

    I'd assume a more powerful stepper would be in order unless I wanted my prints to take ages (well, ages more) to finish. Does anyone know if an upgrade would be possible without a ton of effort? If so, what kinds of things would I be looking for?

    Past that, I'm a bit curious for other things I might need to watch out for when preparing something like this. Any insight would be helpful. I'm prepared to allow "because I can," to be my motivation for this project, but I won't go through with it if it ends up being excessively painful.

    I've uploaded hastily-grabbed screenshots from my hastily-modified assembly. The model is, of course, Mike Kelly's. I do realize this is a different model than mine, but the relevant parts appear to be identical.
     
    jrs3d likes this.
  2. Sekwel

    Sekwel New Member

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    [​IMG]
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  3. Mike Glass

    Mike Glass Active Member

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    What pitch leadscrew are you thinking on using?
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I bet it will be TR8*8 so 8 mm per revolution, don't think you can get more starts than that in an 8 mm lead screw. I would modify it even more if it were me (but it's not). I would have eliminated the rear two LM8UU bearings completely and made the lead screw the rear rail. Think of the Z axis on it's side. Then replace the front LM8UU with self-aligning bearings and even if you have as much as 2.5° skew between the two rails it should still work

    This would make much more sense in a CNC machine where the speed of the toolhead is purposefully much smoother and slower.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Be sure you buy some anti-backlash nuts for this. I agree TR8*8 would be a good thread pitch
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  7. Sekwel

    Sekwel New Member

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    Thanks, all. I did go with TR8*8 for the leadscrew, along with a handful of other parts that I'll write up on at a later date. Long story short, the system functions. I still need to calibrate and see what I can do with the setup, but it works.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.

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