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Community Favorite Marlin 1.1.7 Release for Robo R1, R1+PLUS & Variants

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, May 4, 2017.

  1. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    Thats the problem. I got my Robo 1 and Robo 2 at about the same time. Then I built my Prusa and have been using that more than the other two printers. Since I built it, I know a lot more about how it works. Now I'm trying to get back to using my Robos, with my R1 being my "Spare Parts" printer. It's weirdly frustrating because everything is hidden behind plastic. :)
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Hanover those issues were on an early version of UBL, which all sucked by the way. This Marlin firmware is at least 7 revisions past that one.
     
    anngeelow81 likes this.
  3. Kevin Zhang

    Kevin Zhang New Member

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    @WheresWaldo
    1st of all, thanks for the files! i updated my robo R1 with leadscrew and glass bed upgrade directly from robo3d yesterday. i do have some issues with the update and hoping you can help.

    1st, using DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80,80,800,800 } // Default steps per unit for RoboR1+PLUS
    when i use the Z lift command for 10mm, it lifts about 1mm and stops, then makes a grinding sound, i played with the code in configuration.h, when changed to DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80,80,400,800 } the z lift seens to be smooth as before the update, but obviously, my z layers are squished down. those leadscrews are brought directly from robo site 1/10/16. any ideas? below is a video of the problem. sorry, i couldnt upload files to the forum for some reason..
    http://studiodash.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/20171126_153742.mp4

    2nd, i figure i'll just give it a shot at printing since 1mm lifts fine(but louder before the update) when ever the print reaches about 90mm or so, X axis homes itself and resumes printing. it happens everytime. and it causes layer shifting. below is a picture of failed prints. left is the 1st time, right being the 2nd time.
    http://studiodash.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/20171126_153349-e1511729180437.jpg

    i've searched the forum for solutions but no luck. hope you can help. cheers!
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    800 is the correct number, 400 will give you a "squished" Z
    The grinding is usually mechanical... not software or firmware
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Kevin Zhang If the stepper is making noise, it could be an issue with driver current. You could try adjusting the stepper driver potentiometer using one of the many YouTube videos that exist on adjusting stepper drivers.

    Can't help on the homing, The Firmware doesn't do that on its own, so something else is making it happen.
     
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  6. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Marlin - One step forward, Three Steps Backwards.

    The masterminds over at Marlin once again don't get the concept:

    https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/7912

    Waldo - Remember last June when you made a lengthy argument on github to retain Mesh leveling?

    We discussed it here:
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ase-for-robo-r1-r1-plus-variants.18362/page-4

    I weighed in over there as well. The result was they added a new menu to allow mesh leveling using a paper feeler gauge and the LCD, + save the result. No connection to a computer required. No knowledge of GCode required. Just set up config for:
    #define MESH_BED_LEVELING
    #define LCD_BED_LEVELING

    Well, turned out it has a bug. Most of the time the routine does not return to the Main Menu when finished, leaving you stuck in a loop. Several people have reported this issue.

    Yesterday thinkyhead announced he would fix this by rewriting the code. Now it appears they have forgotten the initial reason this was made into a Menu item: to avoid connecting to a computer to level the bed! Of course one can connect to a PC if desired, and gain additional functions. But the old Mesh system worked well on the Robo R1 and I've been waiting 18 months to see it re-appear in Marlin.

    My patience with those folks is exhausted. Guess I'll just revert back to whatever rev it was that worked before they brought in UBL.
     
    #226 Ed Ferguson, Nov 26, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2017
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Ed Ferguson I am not reading that issue the same way as you are. What I am getting is that they are addressing the way MESH interacts with the screen to use the same internal functions that the other leveling schemes do. I may be wrong, I am not really following Marlin as closely as I was before.
     
  8. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    I hope you're right. I freak out when they start talking about an LCD not being needed to level the bed.

    Anyway, as of this morning they have a patch for people to try. We'll see and report back.
     
  9. book

    book New Member

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    Hi all..
    Great thread, and awesome job on the firmware. Thank you very much.
    I got mine workng the other day. I even enable Linear advance, and went through the calibration. I found a K factor somewhere between 25 and 30 was best for PLA(using E3D V6). Anyone get something similar?
    Note: Pressure control from LIN ADV causes my gears to have a tapping noise at the end and start of a line. Marlin team does warn of this, saying its cause by small gear play.

    @Kevin Zhang I had the same Z problem as you. 800 was not correct for me either. I changed it to the original value from the Robo firmware which is 2560. I also had the problem with the Z motor locking/grinding. I changed the maximum Z motor speed from 50 to 5 (5 is the value from the original robo firmware), and that fixed it.

    Hope that helps.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    800 is only for the R1 Plus, the other numbers are already in Configuration.h, you just need to comment out the incorrect lines and uncomment the correct one.
     
  11. Kevin Zhang

    Kevin Zhang New Member

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    @book changing the maximum Z motor speed from 50 to 5 worked! thanks for the tip. i've always had it at 800
    after my leadscrew update tho(well, back then was 723.38 when i 1st did it) . i guess that max z motor speed code was different?

    @WheresWaldo weird thing, when i print using SD card, i dont have the layer shifting issue, but it looks everything works like it supposed to be atm. thanks guys!
     
  12. Rod Smith

    Rod Smith Member

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    Thanks for all the work on this, people (and especially WheresWaldo). I've successfully flashed my printer to Marlin 1.1.6 and have made some small prints with it. I've configured mine for AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR, at least for the moment. I may look into mesh and/or UBL in the future, but I wanted to change as few variables as possible in one go.
     
  13. Avrution

    Avrution Member

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    Is there any real benefit in going to Marlin for the average user?

    From what I understand, the only way to get one of the expanded screens is do go custom?
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Marlin is the firmware. Only you can decide if you need the added functionality and/or bug fixes in newer version of the firmware. It has no relationship on what screens you want to attach to your printer.
     
  15. Rod Smith

    Rod Smith Member

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    Has anybody else had problems with the Marlin 1.1.6 firmware leaving the Y-axis rail crooked in the Z-axis after a tall print? That is, I'm seeing the right-side Z-axis assembly has lifted higher than the left side of the Z-axis assembly, by about an inch. I'm pretty sure that this happens after the print has completed, but I'm not 100% sure of that -- I've never noticed anything being off during a print, only after it's completed, and I have yet to be watching it when the print completes and this happens. This tilt is enough to throw off the Z-axis sensors, so any attempt to control the system via codes from OctoPrint fails -- I'm unable to lower the head, and I've even had the thing try to go higher and bash into the top of the printer. The only fix I've found is to turn off the motors and manually spin the rods to bring the head down at least a few inches. If it's roughly level at that point, I can issue a Z-axis home command to bring it down the rest of the way, but then I've got to fine-tune the level again, and I suspect this is throwing off my Z-axis compensation figure. (I'm using AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR, FWIW.) This problem does not happen with short prints; it seems to happen with prints over 75-100mm, at a very rough guess. This is enough of a pain that I'm considering dropping back to the stock Robo firmware, since I don't recall seeing this problem with the stock firmware.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    That is not a firmware issue
     
  17. Rod Smith

    Rod Smith Member

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    Then what is it, and why has it appeared only since I upgraded to Marlin 1.1.6?
     
  18. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Hi Waldo. I am looking to upgrade to the latest version of Marlin but have a question.
    I have a 3rd party lead screw kit installed as per your other pinned thread.
    For the define in the firmware you posted here the settings are below
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 1600, 800 }
    On your other thread the define is as follows
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,1600,723.38}

    Which one is correct to use?
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The first is likely closer, the difference here is only the ESTEPS. That last parameter is for how many steps the Extruder needs to run. The 723.38 is the default Robo used in every version of the firmware they released but it is way off. I changed it to 800 in this firmware which is closer to being accurate. There are numerous YouTube videos that describe how to calibrate the extruder so that if you ask for 100 mm of filament you get 100 mm extruded.
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Rod, shit happens, but there isn't anything in the firmware that can cause this, otherwise everyone would be reporting it. It is not a firmware issue.
     

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