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Answered Max Temp for heat bed? 80??!!

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by wthierry, Jan 24, 2015.

  1. wthierry

    wthierry Active Member

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    I tried to set the bed to 85, and terminal print never started, terminal complained about a max temperature. is there a preset that prevents this? is it unsafe?
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah you need to do some physical and firmware modifications to go above 85. No real need though imo.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This can be changed in configuration.h in the firmware source if you really want to change it.,
     
  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    But be sure you remove the connector and provide adequate cooling to the ramps if you do decide to modify the firmware.
     
  5. Mike Glass

    Mike Glass Active Member

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    Are you printing in an outside storage shed? no need to go that high.
     
  6. DarkComet

    DarkComet New Member

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    What material are you printing with? There is really no need to have a heated bed at all if done right, but having a heated bed helps exponentially and I would not get a 3d printer without one. Having it at 85 is pretty hot, I have my bed at 80 for the first layer and 70 there after, but even that many may think that is a bit to hot to run at as well. What is the reason you want to go above 85? To fight warping, get a good first layer adhesion or what?
     
  7. wthierry

    wthierry Active Member

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    Yes, thats the idea, I am printing PLA, but the object is kind of like a quarter of a hemisphere. I want to be able to glue 2 of them together, but the bottom layer peeled up a bit.... I didnt want to use a raft in case it didnt all come off cleanly. I could use a brim, but they seem to leave a more obvious seam....
     
  8. Mike Glass

    Mike Glass Active Member

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    I've seen too much heat make the plastic gooey, which led to peeling off the bed. I always start low, never gone over 80.
     
  9. DarkComet

    DarkComet New Member

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    For PLA, which is what I primarily print in, I would keep my bed plate temp between 0-80 and my extruder temp between 195-220. Start hot, when you get a good print then take it a notch lower in temp in intervals of 5, if done right and with some tweaking of speed, first layer width, fill patterns, retraction and cooling, your prints should look better overall and you should get more consistent first layer adhesion.

    Also here are some tips to making sure everything is consistent and getting good adhesion:

    • Make sure you clean off your bed plate if you have touched it a lot or at the beginning of the day when you start printing because of dust and finger oils. You can use glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol.
    • Next make sure your nozzle is cleaned off and there are no blobs of plastic to pull up your print while the extruder head moves over them.
    • Make sure the environment is relatively consistent. No drafts, smoke, or humidity if you can help it.
    • Change your first layer width, this is under Print>Advanced>Extrusion Width>First Layer. If it is at 1, then try cranking it up by intervals of 1. My first layer width is set to 1.2mm, but this may not do as well as something else for you if you have other settings different than mine.
    • Make sure cooling is on automatic and not always on. This can be found under Filament>Cooling>Enable, uncheck "Keep fan always on" and check "Enable auto cooling". This will help with warping as well, especially when doing the first layer.
    • Don't use a raft, especially for prints that you have already done before and know they don't warp, there is no need and they can be hard to remove.
    • I do recommend using brims, larger ones like 3-5 mm, these are easier to remove in comparison to doing a brim of 1-2 mm and unlike rafts do not interfere with height. If you don't like them or don't want to use them then that is up to you. But if you are having warping then that extra bit of plastic may save a failed print.
    • If your print starts to warp mid way through print, bring up the bed temperature while it is printing, then bring it back down after it appears to cause no more problems.
    • Also calibration cubes help a lot, if you can get a good cube printed, then you should be good with the print you are wanting to do.
    Hope this helps!
     
  10. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Dark comet, what software are you using.
     
  11. DarkComet

    DarkComet New Member

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    To print or to model? Well for my Robo3d printer I am using MatterControl version 1.2, and then using Slic3r for the slicing and the G-Code generation. Sorry if I never mentioned that. I've used a lot of other programs, all the free ones :), MatterControl is a very good program to use and has a lot of cool useful features.
     
  12. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    I agree, but go around the interwebs.. everyone on other machines keeps their heated platform at 100+ C. I don't know why. Cuz they can? Aluminum acts different?
    First time I printed abs I was trying to make it heat to 110 because the "how to print" faq I was reading told me to.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Lots of Robo users do as well. Some of it is likely a panacea and not really needed, but sometimes it helps to reduce warp-n-curl with some materials because it keeps the overall bed area warmer.
     
  14. DarkComet

    DarkComet New Member

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    The temperature suggestions were for PLA, which technically doesn't need a heated bed to even print, but for ABS, it's pretty much required in most situations. I know when using the makerbot printers, which also had a glass bed, that they recommended those temperatures, about 110C for ABS, but for PLA to turn off the heated bed. If you have a heated bed with PLA of 110C, then something is wrong, or its just for the placebo effect.
     
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  15. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Makerbot does not have a glass bed. The Replicator 2 has a Acrylic build platform and the Rep2x has an aluminum build plate.

    110C just helps first layer but it's always advised to drop down to 80C afterwards to not cause the first few layers to deform.



    Note: If you modify the Firmware to run hotter than 85C be sure to remove any clip connector and hard wire the bed into the ramps. Also ensure the ramps has sufficient cooling.
     
  16. DarkComet

    DarkComet New Member

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    You're right Mike about the makerbot not having a glass bed plate, my bad. It had been a while since I used it and it was my first 3d printer that I had used so from what I remember I thought it was glass. Yes, that is a good suggestion. If I was to print in abs, what would you recommend for the bed plate, 110? Or would you advise staying within the stock firmware temp?
     
  17. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    80C seems to work fine. I find higher results in warping on the first few layers.
     
  18. AJinFLA

    AJinFLA New Member

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    I'm confused as hell. I aslso read over and over of 110-120 bed heat for abs. Thin prints at 70-80 are fine but things like Mike's platform feet lifted 3 of the 4. I use blue tape, w abs I added hairspray for small prints and worked well. Maybe abs is old roll and polluted from exposure to air/moisture?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It could be 'wet' but that wouldn't make it more likely to warp.

    If you really want to run the bed that hot, modify the firmware and have at it. I know lots of folks who do run the ABS at 110 or so for the bed... I never needed to get quite that warm myself.
     
  20. James Harry

    James Harry Active Member

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    Interesting, I did not modify the firmware, but it allows me to go up towards 120 on the bed. I run at 100 for the first few layers and then drop to 90. I've tried to extrude lower, but never get it to stick. Might be related to using gluestick vs. hairspray.
     

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