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Mike's Printer is in!

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Michael DiFilippo, Jun 25, 2013.

  1. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    I have a feeling the board is indeed slightly bowed. I think by adding the boro glass I am actually making that "slight bow" more intense
     
  2. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    I'll probably end up scrapping the board, I was thinking of replacing it with either a aluminum frame or a aluminum plate if it's not too heavy.

    To expand on my ruff idea of bed leveling, I would pretty much replace the spacers between the bed and the sliders with a long nut and two bolts, This may allow us to get a couple millimeters of adjustment, which I would think would be enough. But this may cause problems with the belt. The only other option is to lose some build height. This I just a idea from when I've seen in the videos, since I don't have my RoBo yet D:
     
  3. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    boro does not bow, from this comment I think you mistaking angled bed for bowing bed.

    have you checked the birch to see if it is flat?
    if your pcb heater is bowed, there really is not much you can do about it, except find a replacement.
     
  4. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Cambo I was saying I think the birch is bowed not the glass. I just think that having the 1/4" of glass over the bed was amplifying the bow of the wood.
     
  5. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    1/4" boro is pretty thick, i guarantee that's not gonna to bow. Can you shim it? place shims underneath the boro till it levels out? even after you do that. you still have to worry about the pcb heater that is not flat also

    you have more than one problem here and you can't fix one until you fix the other.
    bowed birch, and warped pcb heater,

    also with the 1/4" boro you may find when heating , it may take longer to reach temp or you will not have even heat distribution, same goes for 1/8" boro, but its not as bad.
     
  6. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    I'm not sure if it is bowed birch of warped pcb or both. I need to take apart the entire bed and take a close look. Here is a picture showing how the print is actually affected. I'll order some 1/8" boro tomorrow. photo.JPG
     
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    That pic is really weird. I'm wondering if there's not something else going on. It looks like you have a line around the overall picture that is getting thick at the middle of the machine and thin at the front. then looking at your small squares, they are opposite. ridiculously thick at the front and then fade to nothing towards the back. Then looking at the small squares, they are thick in the right rear corner, but then thin out to the left. It's almost like the build plate is wavy in multiple axes perfectly aligned with your part which doesn't seem to be too terribly probably in reality.

    Have you tried taking a look at the hobbed bolt to see it it is clogged up with debris? What temperature are you running at?

    At one point in the center of the plate, it looks like you have multiple overlapping pieces of tape. That would also be a problem.

    .
     
  8. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    I agree the first layer is strange, but the good news (at least I think it is?) is that after the first few layers everything seems pretty spot on. There may sometimes be a few overlapping pieces of tape from repairing sections when they get removed from trying to get parts off. The perimeter lines are most definitely never printing how they should.

    I have been printing all the first layers at 190 and then 180 for the rest with the heated bed at 55 as suggested by Robo.
     
  9. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    A shot of a reaper at .1mm layer height, looks very clean so far.
    reaper.jpg
    Also i just ordered 2 sheets of 1/8" boro and one sheet (12x12 I'll have to cut it) 1/8th garolite as well. #8525K132 from MCMaster-Carr hopefully it is the right garolite to use for nylon.
     
  10. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Here he is finished off. The top didn't close in though, not sure if this is due to the bed or what.

    photo2.JPG
     
  11. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    Could be to much heat, a fan would probably fix that.
     
  12. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    bed wouldn't cause that because after the first couple layers the print somewhat automatically levels out as new layers of plastic get put down.

    for that print, having a support structure underneath could help. Also it could be too hot to print overhangs like that, adding a part cooling fan may also help solidify the plastic as it gets layed down.

    if you add a fan remember to recalibrate your pid hotend settings, with the fan running or your hotend temperatures could also be off.
     
  13. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Thanks guys. Really appreciate all the responses as I learn this printer. Do I have to modify the firmware to adjust the pid hotend settings?
     
  14. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    yes
     
  15. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Just finished wrapping the wires and WOW what a difference it made.

    wireleft.jpg

    wireright.JPG
    Took me about 1 1/2 hours to do it all. I carefully undid one set at a time and wrapped them and used a combination of heatshrink and zipties. I used this stuff because it was tight and also split so it was easy to use with the wires that already had connectors. The size also worked great for 2 wire and even the 4 wires from the motors. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ble_Sleeve_-_Black.html?id=gq8q9fKv&mv_pc=145

    I would say 5-7ft will get you by with some to spare.
     
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  16. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    cleaned up the bottom of the printer as well. Looking really nice now. I am very happy with the wiring now. bottom.jpg
     
  17. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Mike I think they should hire you.
     
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  18. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    The sad part is, I really enjoyed doing it. I am half tempted to snip and shorten all the other wires down there, mostly they are just the motor cables but at the same time I am hesitant to do so haha.
     
  19. Henry

    Henry New Member

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    inside looks good... on the bottom is there that much excess wiring ????
     
  20. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Yes there is that much excess wiring. It looks like they either extended or had the wires for the stepper motors extended. That is what 98% of that the wire on the bottom is. Remember each stepper has 4 wires so it adds up quickly. If you look at the bottom picture anything with White Tape is what they did, I just undid their harnesses put them back and then adjusted some my self with some black tape.

    It is great, wires are no where near the lead screws or bushings now and I was able to move all the excess underneath, so even when it is not homed and it needs extra wire the wire is able to stay out of the way.
     

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