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My modification to make filament changes easier.

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Bil Forshey, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    Changing the filament on the Robo 3D R1 was quite a chore as it required you to remove two screws and struggle with the two tensioning springs that like to go flying around. Then you had to heat up the extruder, pull out the filament, load the new filament, close the tensioner, reinstall the two screws washers and struggle getting the springs to allow you to get the screws threaded into their nuts, and then adjust the proper spring tension again.

    After going through all of that, filament changes didn' t get done very often, and only if I was feeling ambitious.

    I determined that the worst part of the task was due to the screws and springs. I felt that if the screws could just fold up out of the way and the springs could be captive and have a tab to help compress them while you close the door, then switching the filaments would be an easier task and would get done more frequently.

    The modification should be only simple hardware and require no modifications to the extruder parts.

    I searched through my extensive hell box for suitable replacement screws and hinged standoffs, nuts, and I even found some plastic tabs with a hole that fit the screw shaft.

    I had just received a replacement hobbed bolt and I decided now was the time to do a tear down to install the new and improved hobbed bolt, and my modification of screw hardware.

    Attached are photos of my modification with the extruder open and closed. I am very pleased with how nicely it functions and I can now switch filaments much more easily, and I do not dread the task anymore.

    I have scoured the internet hardware suppliers looking for the proper components to replicate this modification for sale as an upgrade kit but I have not yet found all of the required components without custom tooling to fabricate some parts.

    If there was sufficient interest I would consider doing the necessary tooling and put together an upgrade kit of parts.
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Bil Forshey, Mar 11, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2016
    Tom Finzel likes this.
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  3. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    I didn! Want to replace my injection molded original extruder parts with weaker 3D printed parts, I had looked at this as a ppossible solution bur felt it was not a viable solution for me.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Ah gotya. I printed mine at 4 shells 30% infill in Petg (2 weeks and countless filament changes) and haven't broke it yet but do have one made in xt on the shelf at 80% infill because I was also worried about it breaking.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Since Robo doesn't use the best formula plastic for it's injection molded parts, I have broken or cracked the following original Robo plastic pieces without placing undue stress on them. 2 Y Axis Tensioners, 1 Greg's Wade Idler Arm, 2 Y Axis Pillow Blocks. All have been replaced by much stronger printed pieces and I have no issues since.

    My experience may not be typical, but it also isn't unique to me.
     
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  6. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    I have never had any failed injection molded parts in over two years since I got my printer. How old is your printer? Maybe they have changed materials or molders since I got mine. I have heard of Makerbot owners having their parts break as well, but no problems for mine so far. Most of the parts I have printed are not nearly as strong as injection molded ones.
     
    #6 Bil Forshey, Mar 12, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016
  7. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    My R1 from April 2015 has had literally every single injection molded part on it crack and need replacing (though most of that was ordered from Robo about July of 2015).

    The R1+Plus I won from a Facebook contest seems to be a little more durable on the molded plastic parts, but as I have yet to get a successful print from it (drive bolt keeps stripping out about three hours into a print in every single filament type I've tried a print with, from PLA to ABS to T-glase and even Nylon using the recommended settings from each filament manufacturer).

    That said, actually changing filaments has never really been that difficult. Home the printer, then jog it to X100 Y100 Z55 and carefully pull the hinged bearing holder to the open position and insert the new filament into the hole below the drive bolt.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have two betas (the original kickstarter versions) but no broken parts yet. I had long ago printed all of the extruder and other plastic parts in self defense :) Just never needed to use them, yet. The supports that held the smooth rods were my main concern as those were really flimsy, but I have yet to need to install the beefier ones I had printed.

    Hit or miss I imagine.
     
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  9. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    Sorry to hear about your plastic parts problems, I hope Robo 3D replaced them under warranty with better ones, they must have changed materials since I got my printer. One of the reasons i purchased their product is that all of the plastic parts were injection molded instead of being printed.

    As for the hobbed bolt, that is a common complaint, mine did the same thing.

    I got my improved replacement bolt on ebay here:

    http://r.ebay.com/ot4nft

    it works much better for me, I have not had a single problem with it grinding filament since, I've been using it for six months or more.

    Do your extruder latch bolts tilt?

    Mine didn't , and I used to have to fully remove them to change filament.
     
  10. cosber

    cosber Active Member

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    After the mod that put the finger "lip" (for lack of a better term) on the filament holder, I haven't had to take off or even loosen the two screws to load filament.
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Same here. With the hingle version they do tilt but not enough. You use your hand and pull backwards on it(away from the printer) and it opens up the hob area to remove and reinsert filament. Very easy to do. I've had some im parts break... But honestly I'm a mechanic and am not the most gentle person around lol
     

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