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Newly Installed E3D v6 Doesn't Heat Up Properly

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Red7s, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Red7s

    Red7s New Member

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    I recently installed an E3D V6 to a R1 I that I just bought off of Facebook Marketplace, that I later learned had a bad Thermistor due to it randomly throwing "err: TEMP FALL ERROR" during a print. However once my E3D arrived it became apparent that E3D has changed the design significantly since both the written guides on this forum, and the video guides around show different materials. Most notably the Thermistor as instead of a Stud Thermistor, mine came with a cartridge style. These minor changes aside I got it installed, and wired in. However the Hotend seems to heat up very slowly. Slowly enough where I can't even hit 200c without waiting close to 40 minutes..assuming the hotend doesn't turn off before than with a heating failed error in the terminal.

    To rectify this error, I've attempted to change my firmware settings like the official E3D guide on their website suggests (below) and even attempted to restore a stock firmware and not change Thermistor setting at all, like the written guide on this Section suggests to no avail.

    Is my Cartridge Thermistor bad perhaps? Is it just a simple case of having a bad firmware flashed? I did notice when trying to source the original firmware for this system from Robo's website that it would fail to compile so I had to grab a few files from here to alleviate that error and get it to work.

    Any assistance would be appreciated! Of course if something I've typed up does not make sense, or if you would like me to elaborate further please do not hesitate to yell at me!

    To clarify, I installed the 24v E3D V6 and it looks exactly like the one from the v6 assembly guide on E3D-Online
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What you need to fix this is a larger heater core. The E3D v6 includes a 25w (yea, dumb) one the stock hexagon is 30w (still dumb) and you can get a 40w one from Amazon for a few bucks

    also you want the 12v heater core unless you have seriously modified your R1 to accommodate a 24v power supply (which is not simple)
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mind you, if you put a 24v E3D into the R1 --- it will work, but it will heat even slower than the 12v 25w core :) Really, REALLY slow

    The heater core is the only part of the hotend that is voltage sensitive (i.e expects a certain rated voltage). I used an overrated one in our C2 when I added a non-Robo second extruder/hotend because I could not find 19v rated heater cores (so I used a 24v one) and it is noticeably slower to heat than the stock one -- not hideous, but slower.
     
  4. Red7s

    Red7s New Member

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    Thank you very much! I've just gone ahead and ordered a 12v heater core. I hope this fixes it(im sure it will) It should be here Sunday
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Heater cores at this low end is only certified for resistance, so 12V or 24V doesn't really matter that much. The key is that they are all basically the same but 24V will have a higher internal resistance than a 12V at the same wattage output. This means you can always use a 24V heater core even in a 12V system, it will just be slower. The danger comes if you put a 12V in a 24V system because of fear of overheating the cartridge and the lower internal resistance will cause it to draw too many amps from the RAMPS board.
     
  6. Red7s

    Red7s New Member

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    To confirm, what I have currently will work than eventually and it's normal that it was taking 40+ minutes to heat up to 200c(assuming it didn't time out)

    But it will still be better to replace the 24v heatercore with the 12v varient
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yes better, since the R1 series only used a 12V power supply.
     
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  8. Red7s

    Red7s New Member

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    Great to hear, thank you very much!

    One more question if you do not mind. Is 1.1.5 the latest Marlin Firmware around for the R1 series that I can use? I tried my hand at some Google-fu and any newer firmware's I've found seem to be for the + varient
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Robo uses 1.0.0 on all their official R1 series firmwares, but there are several threads here that have 1.1.9 and @Bradf80 just got Marlin 2.0.x Bugfix running on the R1+PLUS.

    I would highly suggest if you are going to upgrade from the Official firmware that you go to 1.1.9. Also study up on Unified Bed Leveling (UBL).
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, you can update to 1.1.x but you need to be a little familiar with Marlin to want to go there :)
    We have a thread or two on it so if you want to make that jump just read up and get the bundle from that thread.
     
  11. Red7s

    Red7s New Member

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    So, anything above 1.1.5 will work on my R1 even though they are stated that they are for the + varient?
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Where is it stated?

    Not from "Robo" :)
    Some members of the community have configured a build that works, perhaps with tweaks, just be prepared to have to dig in a bit if things DON'T work as expected. You will find the links to the versions @WheresWaldo and I are talking about here in the Community Forum (not on the Robo web pages).

    Everyone here is a Robo owner (we do not work for Robo)

    As @WheresWaldo pointed out the last "official" version of the Robo R1+ firmware is (downloadable on their main site) and is from version 1.0.x of Marlin. The R1+ has not been updated (the "+" was an update to the already 3 year old "R1" when IT was released two years ago). Nothing has changed on those printers in a long time so Robo has not bothered to keep the firmware current (it would require them to do testing). Officially the R1+ was retired and replaced with the R2/C2 and THOSE they do have (fairly) current versions of Marlin 1.1.x (but not the latest) :)
     
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    We have a very large and active community of users that can certainly help you get whatever you want to do working .. but none of it is sanctioned by Robo3D :) and certainly not supported by them . WE will help if you run into issues -- absolutely.
     
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  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The real difference between the R1, then the newer R1 then the newest R1+ is the number of steps used to move the Z axis. That is easy to configure yourself.
     
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