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Partially Solved Now I can't print at all - Time to throw in the towel.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by hippy1970, Jun 8, 2017.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Upload a picture if you can of the parts under there.
    Then we can give you moire specific ideas.
    I have upgraded a few betas,.it is not super hard.

    Heated bed will require changing some of of the other bed parts as well, again nothing complicated.
     
    #21 mark tomlinson, Jun 16, 2017
  2. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    Take a look at these and let me know what you think. I could always remove the bed if you need better photos.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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    #22 hippy1970, Jun 17, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is enlightening.
    Someone already did a linear rails conversion on that machine. A home-brew (printed) one, but still..
    That is actually a good thing.
     
    #23 mark tomlinson, Jun 17, 2017
  4. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    Hi guys,
    I finally found time to come back to my Robo this week. I discovered the z axis base has partially fractured on one side and completely on the other. I thought ok I'll print new ones. Now I have a new problem
    The first layer seems to bubble and lift. I'll attach a photo. [​IMG]

    What's wrong this time...?

    Thanks for any help.


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    #24 hippy1970, Jul 11, 2017
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    first guess would be either temperature or you have dirty tape (why use tape?)
     
    #25 Geof, Jul 11, 2017
  6. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    Good question. I'm following previous advice from a friend. I don't have a heated bed and the pritt-stick on the bed was a mess. I've tried 195 up to 210 for temp with the same results. Most times I try to print I don't even get as much as in the photo done. The initial outline is the wrong shape three out of four attempts.


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    #26 hippy1970, Jul 11, 2017
  7. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Am I seeing skirting there on that first layer? (upper-right corner)

    You can't really tell from this but you're looking for a thin/flat cross-section rather than like 'u'-shaped (skirted) or 'o'-shaped (not low enough to bed).
     
    #27 OutsourcedGuru, Jul 11, 2017
  8. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    You may we'll be right about the bed height. I did level it before printing. Here's another photo of a failed print from yesterday.
    [​IMG]

    Same problem with the heat. You can also see how the corners of the outline aren't square. I suspect it's too far away from the bed when the head changes direction.

    Maybe I should have bought a Wanhao... ha!


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    #28 hippy1970, Jul 11, 2017
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    At the time the beta was being sold the Wanhao was .. just as bad.
    You can't be reasonably comparing a current Wanhao to a Robo from 2013...

    However, you can get the beta updated to work better :)
    If you haven't done the autoleveling conversion you really should.
    (that costs less than $10 and an hour of your time if you can't print the printable parts someone will do them for you)
     
    #29 mark tomlinson, Jul 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
  10. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    I would really like to do the auto level. I've attempted to print the parts but it's so bad at the moment I can't print anything at all. I would dearly like to print all the upgrades and plan on doing so.
    I may actually have to resort to buying another printer to fix this one.


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    #30 hippy1970, Jul 11, 2017
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are two printed parts you need for the auto level, one of us can print them for you if need be.. they are really small, quick prints.
    Like I said not much costs and not much time to do it.


    You need two of these (get them where ever you want):

    https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3234/=18do0d5

    Look for part #90264A445


    You need one more Z switch if you reuse your original one:

    https://www.amazon.com/TWP-Printer-Accessories-Straight-Makerbot/dp/B0727PBKNY

    That is a lot of 20, look around and find a smaller lot

    You need a little wire and a few small screws/nuts

    Details here:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349935
     
    #31 mark tomlinson, Jul 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
  12. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    Thanks. I may take you up on the offer.
    I think I rushed into buying it second hand with a lot of issues. I need the bases for the z axis first though. At least it would be steady.


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    #32 hippy1970, Jul 11, 2017
  13. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    Tonight's efforts were just as frustrating. I finally get it to adhere to the bed and I'm pretty sure it's all level. Still the issue with the head melting what's already been printed.
    [​IMG]

    I have a video but it's too large to upload and probably wouldn't help either.


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    #33 hippy1970, Jul 12, 2017
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Too hot and/or over extrusion would be the things that it looks like right off the cuff.
     
    #34 mark tomlinson, Jul 12, 2017
  15. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    That was PLA at 210 I think. I've tried various temperatures from 195 up. I'm trying again now at 195 with extrusion multiplier at 0.9.


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    #35 hippy1970, Jul 12, 2017
  16. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    Here's the resulting print. [​IMG]

    Should I reduce the temp further?


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    #36 hippy1970, Jul 12, 2017
  17. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    I don't think it's hot enough now.

    [​IMG]


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    #37 hippy1970, Jul 12, 2017
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What is your bed heat? The filament is warping a bit on you there.
    If you haven't done so, try another spool as well.

    Temperatures are relative to the printer. Everyone will have different best numbers so they are worthless outside of being a ballpark.
     
    #38 mark tomlinson, Jul 12, 2017
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This could also be a leveling issue. I am less inclined to "vote" that way since temperature is more obviously an issue, but it could be leveling related as well. This is the problem with trying to troubleshoot printer problems visually.

    These are the best ones I have seen:

    Visual troublshooting:
    ----------------------
    https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

    and :
    http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

    and :
    http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
     
    #39 mark tomlinson, Jul 12, 2017
  20. hippy1970

    hippy1970 Member

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    The bed is NOT heated. It's on my list of things to do.
    The green filament is the second one I have tried tonight.
    I just had a more successful print but had to stop it as the nozzle was catching on the print. I've now raised the z offset ever so slightly and it appears to be printing ok. I'm at 195 degrees and have extruded multiplier at 0.9.
    If I can just print some of the spares I need I can then work on upgrades.


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    #40 hippy1970, Jul 12, 2017
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