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Unanswered Part cooling fan configuration.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Oisin, Oct 25, 2016.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  2. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Looking good so far. No warping.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    My last one is not so hot but that's to be expected. I've also got a dieting cooling fan to replace on that side. May have to replace and see how it does :). Meh happy camper so far
     
  5. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I'm running stock.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
  6. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Finished.
    This was the first test of this kind I've done. All in all I'm happy. No huge flaws and some room for improvement.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The little tail is where I changed spools. I had it paused for 2 minutes and it got a little to hot. Created a bump that eventually worked itself out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Nice experience. I hope it's useful for a comparison.


    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
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  7. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    And a little video of my raft for my friend @Geof lol.


    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
    #87 Rigmarol, Nov 11, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2016
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  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just an FYI. Layer height has only a very small significance to layer width. If you use the same nozzle orifice and just lower the layer height, for the most part the extrusions are still the same width. You might need to tweak the extrusion multiplier ever so slightly if you calibrated your profiles to a much thicker layer. There are always compromises that you need to reconcile to yourself for our FDM printers. For instance printing layers from the outside edges inward can make openings and the outside dimension more stable and accurate but can have detrimental effects on overhangs. Printing from the inside out is much better for overhangs but can cause holes to print a little bit smaller than modeled. Also slight under-extruding or over-extruding can cause issues. Most of my profiles under-extrude ever so slightly because I can get a very smooth finish on the top layers. Too much either way and it won't fill properly. Percentage of extrusion overlap can also cause overhangs to behave funny. You may just need to spend more time adjusting.

    Here is something I did a long time ago, when I first got my printer I bought a lot of spools of filament. After printing a few small things I found that there was a color or two I found hideous. I then proceeded to basically use up the entire roll printing 'calibration' models with varying thicknesses and infill densities. I used this printing time to fine tune profiles. My profiles are not perfect as I still have issues with long bridges but I rarely print anything that needs to bridge. Everything else is as close to perfect as I need it to be, which for me means it is the correct size and the outside only needs minor touch-up for the rare stray goober or if I accidently printed directly over the chip in my bed (have to shave off the excess that fills the chip, etc.
     
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Look at you all fancy with the filament change and the raft...like a boss!
     
  10. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Thanks very much for the images, Geof and Rigmarol. Both of those performed better than all of mine despite my fans being twice as large. I'll try a few different fan mounts and see how that goes.

    Thanks for the advice, Waldo. I've always printed from inside out. I did increase my percentage if infill overlap to 25% because my top layers were not reaching the edges. It fixed that issue. My overhangs didn't work before that either so I guess I can assume that isn't the problem.
     
  11. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    So I checked the hotend and noticed that filament had leaked out from around the nozzle and filled up the boot. I cleaned that up, heated the hotend and tightened the nozzle again. I must not have tightened it enough last time. However, when I heated up the nozzle to 180C and took the boot off for cleaning, I noticed smoke coming off the hotend somewhere. I couldn't pinpoint it because it was very very faint, but there was definitely smoke. Could this mean it's not 180C at all and is actually much higher? Or could it just be the result of the plastic coming in direct contact with the heating element?
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Probably the latter.
     
  13. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Fair enough. Still looking for a good dual duct system that directs air to the appropriate place without a lot of back pressure. I might end up trying this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271875 though I'd rather not spend more money. I tried the exact same setup as Geof but it didn't deliver for me. One of the ducts is slightly damaged though. The opening got a bit melted a long time ago and it's wider than it should be. It's a long shot but I'll try reprinting it and seeing if a non-damaged one makes any difference.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    20161112_094900.jpg 20161112_094855.jpg 20161112_094852.jpg

    Here is mine sorry got occupied and forgot to add the photos.

    20% infill
    .2mm layers
    Fans on 100% at layer 2
    75mm/s print speed
    190 hotend (to hot for this new spool but just left be)
    45 on the bed with hairspray
     
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  15. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Wow 75mm/s! That's very impressive. My prints fail consistently if I go over 40mm/s and that speed is pushing it. I rarely go over 25mm/s.

    The print looks really good up to 65 degrees, which would be fine for me.

    Would it be possible for you to share your gcode file with me? I'll try printing it with identical settings to you. I'll just have to change the starting gcode.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Still gross haha.

    @Oisin if over 40 is causing issues we should look at the mechanicals.
     
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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes I'll upload for you hang tight
     
  18. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    There are no strange sounds, everything is smooth and the belts are tight. It's never bothered me because even if I could print very fast I wouldn't because I always want the highest possibly quality. My normal settings are 50 microns at 25mm/s. Takes a while to print things but I'm patient.
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Oisin are you doing .05 layers with a .4 nozzle ? If i need that fine detail my basic set up is 30mm/s, .25 nozzle, .05 layer height, fan at 50% until layer 4 then 100%
     
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  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    gcode
     

    Attached Files:

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