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Unresolved PETG warping on large parts.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Nathanfish, Nov 22, 2015.

  1. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Alright, so i took off at noon yesterday to get everything up and running and this large print i have started. I ran the PID Tune and changed my extruder temp to fall from 245 to 235 in 2-3 degree increments per layer and i think that fixed my issues with it dropping straight from 245-235 and not being able to stop itself. I adjusted my Z offset down to -.79, had the print running for about 4 hours before my first extruder jam. Luckily i caught it right away and just fixed it and kept the print going. I turned up my heat a couple degrees and just hoped for the best. Well i woke up this morning at 4:15 to go to work and it's printing air again.. I hate to pull parts off the printer that's been running great for me but i need to get this print finished. I cannot figure out why this one printer keeps jamming on me. I have an "upgraded" hobbed bolt on the printer that's been reliable so maybe i will switch that and the hotend out and try it again. Would the E3D v6 hotend be a worthwhile upgrade over the stock hex end i have? Robo support mentioned they were working on a new hotend, has anything came of that?

    So pretty basic stuff, other than now that i got my sheet of PEI installed i put glue stick on top of that. Everything went fine until my print got about 1/4" tall and the back side warped up on me. The front stayed down just fine though. This PEI is .030" thick so maybe i need to turn up my bed heater higher than 80. You can tell it doesn't transfer the heat with it being so thick. I might try to just print straight on PEI and hope it releases when it's done. So frustrating but i feel like i'm pretty close. I'll try printing with an even bigger raft or maybe try that wolfbite on top of the PEI instead.

    Thanks for all the help guys, i'd be lost! Gonna leave at 11 today to go home and work on it. I have another decent sized print to do this weekend so hopefully i can get them both done.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it were me I think I would try a replacement nozzle.
     
  3. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    i'll have to order some. For some reason i never ordered spares.. I wish i could just overnight a new hotend assembly but Amazon says it would be Monday and i'm not sure where else to get one. Cost not being an issue, what would be the best one that would bolt right up stock?

    I actually have the nozzle from my old hotend that was leaking, i could swap that out first. Only thing that sucks is it took 4 hours for the first jam. So replacing the nozzle i could still have issues and i'd waste another half spool of material in the process. I think a whole new hotend would cause me the least downtime although it's probably overkill.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Likely overkill, usually clogging is the result of residue on the nozzle or just bad filament. Even PLA when it needs oiling is just nozzle residue (or lack of it).

    You can buy a replacement Hexagon or something else (like an E3D) they should all bolt on nicely.
    The E3D usually requires reprinting the parts fan holder. The only real advantage to the E3D is that replacement parts are widely available (and even if they were not, they ARE available -- Hexagon? Not so much).
     
  5. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    My first thought when this printer was clogging was possibly bad filament. But my other printer has done multiple 24+ hour prints with the same filament so it has to be something else.

    Gotcha, yeah i wasn't sure what the advantage of an E3D would be or if it would be worth it. i'll inspect mine and see if there's anything i can see out of the ordinary.

    It seems to be printing great and nothing is really sticking to the nozzle to cause it to jam up.
     
  6. Ocsff

    Ocsff Active Member

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    . I have a PEI sheet on my bed and print PETG with nozzle and bed . Never have any issues. Same temps with glue stick on my second ROBO which has only glass bed, and no issues with PETG. Printing with it as I post
     
  7. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    So you print on the PEI sheet with glue stick? I just tightened up my extra hotend and installed it on the printer and cleaned all the glue stick off of it and i'm going to try to just print directly on the PEI with a large 2 layer raft. Hopefully this hotend doesn't leak or jam.

    BTW i broke that hotend that was jamming up so guess i'm ordering a new hotend anyways now. Yeah i'm an idiot...
     
  8. c. West

    c. West Member

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    What new heaters did you order up and where did you get them? Are they giving better results?

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I managed to even get some TECH-G to warp today. Large print that stuck out very near the print borders and when I arranged it down the Y one of the ends was on a cold spot and warped early on. Abort that and carefully rearrange it (mostly down X rather than Y and centered more over heat pad). Bump the bed a little (5 degrees) and so far working at about 30% done. Well beyond where it warped before. I am thinking about getting a larger or better bed heater myself, but the take away is that you can get any material to warp if the DELTA-T is large enough. Where the material supports a cold bed ... use it unless you really need it for adhesion..
     
  11. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Well just an update. Finished up a 30+ hour print last night with no problems after i switched out hotends! Had issues printing with glue stick on the PETG so i went and bought pure Acetone to clean the PEI off. Printed directly on the PEI and it released perfectly when i got home this morning after it was cooled off. I've never read of anyone printing directly on cleaned PEI but it worked awesome for me with a bed temp of 80.

    The only thing i'd like to try to fix now is my new heater taking 10-15 minutes to heat up to 80. Sometimes it will just sit at 78 and i have to change my process to start at 78 instead of 80. I'm going to try to run the PID Tune for the bed and see if that helps but it might just be because it's an under powered for what i'm trying to do. As long as it still works and is reliable though i probably won't worry about it. Might have to upgrade to 24v someday.
     

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  12. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Well.. spoke too soon. I brought in 2 large parts i printed for work today and am realizing that they both measure big on the Y axis. 12.4" saw fixture measures 12.6". So now both of these parts are scrap. The X and Z dimensions are correct but how do i go about fixing the Y axis. Obviously it's because i've extended the bed on Y but i'm lost as to why it's so far off. This really sucks...
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Did you alter the Y steps/mm?
    Otherwise I am not sure why it would matter.
    Regardless of what size the bed is 80 steps/mm means 80 steps should still be a mm.

    X/Y/Z/Extruder:

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,800,723.38} // default steps per unit for RoBo 3D R1
     
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  14. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    All i changed was the auto level spots in the firmware to probe the bigger bed. I figured i wouldn't need to change anything else so i'm lost as to why it's doing this.
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yep, like @mark tomlinson says, this has nothing to do with the physical size of the bed. Look at you original model / slicer settings / Y axis steps in firmware. All these are factors in any prints that do not measure the same as the 3D model.

    Saying the bed size has something to do with the print size is like saying 'I bought a car that fits four people, I put premium gas in it and now it fits six."
     
  16. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    It's not like it's slipping or anything is loose because the prints come out looking good with no mismatch. I assumed they were good to go.

    I guess i will check the Y axis steps and maybe reflash the firmware and try some test prints. What a bummer.
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just curious, but why do you test with such large necessary prints rather than calibration cubes or shapes? It is easy and fast to print a hollow box that is 30 mm to 100 mm wide or deep and you would know exactly how far off the parts are and adjust as necessary within your slicer. Let's say with your current setup you print a 100 mm cube (for ease of working out the math). Printed in Vase mode with no top layers it will print fast. Now after it is printed and cooled, measure along the X and Y, they should be uniform, but if not look for a mechanical fault, then if not found look for a firmware fault. After eliminating both of those, then adjust in your slicer. Say your 100 mm comes out to 99 mm in X/Y then scale your slicer by a factor of 1.01, say it is 101 then scale by a factor of .99 ( the math is simple Scaling Factor = Model Size / Actual Size). All slicers let you independently set scaling for X | Y | Z axes.
     
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  18. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I printed a few things just didn't pay close enough attention i guess. I assumed that calibration wouldn't be affected by just changing the size of the bed. I can save the larger fixture it's just going to take some machining time. As for the smaller one i'm just going to reprint it on my other machine that i know is calibrated while i mess with the other machine.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It isn't. Unless you changed something that mechanically matters to the drive train or extrduer (and size of bed does not directly matter).
     
  20. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    yea i got caught up with trying to solve my warping problem and my extruder jamming up. Didn't even think much about calibration. I have longer Y axis rods, longer plate, and a longer drive belt. I guess it's possible the drive belt is different than what came stock but i was fairly certain what i ordered was the same. Surely over extruding wouldn't cause that much of a change, right?
     

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