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Solved Printing blob issue

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Larry H, Jun 1, 2016.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That is odd that it started after a thermistor swap (which shouldn't change anything)

    It does seem like something else at the cause but you can ohm the thermistor to see what its value is, inspect the wiring, and ensure its plugged in tightly to both the wiring harness and the ramps board
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have not specified what happens when you do that in this thread :)
    Which reset button are we talking about?
     
  3. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Wh
    Lol I'm not sure either ,when I opened the bottom of the printer to inspect the wiring theres a button on the side of the RAMPS board marked reset.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't see one on any of the RAMPS boards I have photos of (nor any I have personally).

    I wonder if this yet another new custom RAMPS thing? A picture would be nice.

    There is a reset button on the Arduino... It just 'reboots' the firmware.
     
  5. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Actually I didn't swap it out. Someone else had suggested to take a look at the connections under the heat shrink tubing for a loose wire and if they checked out it was likely a cracked thermistor. I found the negative wire had broken away from the end of the thermistor wire so I resoldered it. The ohm reading was about 93 and the temperature readings seemed good
     
  6. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Ok likely not the cause then thanks. I don't have access at the moment to take pictures but will later.
     
  7. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    The hole in the top could easily be not enough top layers and/or too little infill.

    This Reset?
     

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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    This little guy?
     

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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ah, that one. Yes!

    The reset button is connected to the reset pin on the microcontroller.

    So it apparently mirrors the one on the Arduino.
     
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  10. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    I think I had 40% infil and 5-6 top layers.
    Why yes I think it's that reset:)
     
  11. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Well that is definitely not the issue then! :)
     
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  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Just a shot in the dark regarding the retraction ... Cut it in half and see what happens for the blob. The hole on top I do still think a communication issue or something causing the hotend to stay on top the part when finished to long
     
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  13. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    I agree especially also why I went back to the factory settings. Although there's one way I haven't tried which I was avoiding. Remove the printer completely and re add it. That will definitely reset everything to the defaults which were much faster then
    I was running. Just have to set the z offset. If I still have the same problem then, I'll see about the retraction and doublecheck the connections.
    Thanks
     
  14. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Ok I removed the printer from MatterControl and added the printer back. It got rid of the blob but I'm still getting a hole or two with the top. I think you're right communication was at least part of the problem. I had a old version of MatterControl then upgraded it but I haven't plugged the printer into the computer for a while thought maybe the printer profile and drivers were outdated. Actually I thought Mattercontrol hadn't updated in a while but maybe it did recently.
    I'm seeing quite a few more features and tweaks which, even with 5 layers on the top, it doesn't look like enough Also at 40% infill it's still looking too hollow.
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    5 layers should be more than enough and ive used down to 2 % infill. Can you share some phtos of what you have currently?

    As far as some things clearing up i honestly believe thats just matter control. Its very... tempermental :) i do strongly suggest ditching matter control all togather and getting a different slicer. If you tell me what settings you want and your z offset ill slice the cube for you and you can try to print it. That will tell you for sure software or hardware
     
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  16. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Thanks, matter control worked fine for me before version 1.5
    I just installed Cura and I think I have it setup right. If that doesn't work I will likely take you up on that offer.
     
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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Matter control worked for me for the first 6 months...then it didnt lol. I like to think we just outgrow it :)
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    5 layers might be enough,how thick are they :)

    If we assume 0.2mm layers then 5-6 is my minimum. If it is a smaller layer height... (hint: use more)
     
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  19. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Ok Cura had issues but it seemed like a layer thickness setting so no big deal. I tried matter control again and I think I found the problem. While my layers were .1 or .2mm it wouldn't connect the first layer or two to the walls at all, finally found the real problem was the infill overlap.
    The default are starting angle 45degrees and overlap 0.06 is that percent without a mm after it or always mm?
    I remember my original settings the angle being at 90 but I didn't remember the overlap. I tried .20 which worked a lot better.

    I tried downgrading to v1.4 , readded the printer, and saw the overlap settings were still there but at the defaults which I left alone. When I ran the print it came back looking far better. Could this be from matter control being temperamental or could it also be from the setting which causes the printer to try not crossing open spaces to reduce stringing ? That would also explain why v1.4 cube felt stronger too.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    My bet would be on MatterControl being MatterControl.
     
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