1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

printing in air

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Nemesiscoins, Jun 14, 2014.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    Hi Mike,
    Read a bunch and learned a lot.
    I got back on tonight and used the method you suggested of adding the difference to my offset value.
    Took several tries to get the value right and got my first print tonight. Eventually my value was -.6 and I think it should be lower with some manual adjustment ie Turning the threaded bolts.
    If I use the same method as I did but pause the print and turn the threaded bolts would this adjustment be saved such as changing the offset value or would the auto leveling on the next print reset it?
    Also lots of squeaking during printing is it normal or any oiling needed?
    From my previous tries of not getting a sticking layer I changed hair spray and gave Aqua net a try and worked great!
    Many thanks
     

    Attached Files:

    2 people like this.
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    No adjusting the threaded rods by hand will not be counted in the arduino. You'd need to do this every time.

    Oil is suggested. People like white lithium grease. I use SuperLube. Works well.

    Really glad to see you printing! Let me know if there's anything else you're confused on.
     
  3. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    OK thanks for all the help
     
  4. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    Remembered a question I had.
    If I run from an sd card how would this work if I don't have the software with the offset values?
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    The Z-offset is added to the gcode you load onto the SD card
     
  6. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    I keep remembering questions after I post one
    I recall in one of the ROBO 3d videos it suggested changing quality settings in MC but my settings are blank. Is it settings I need to create? Off hand I didn't see any instructions about this on MC site. If you are aware of any please let me know.
    Thanks and hopefully my last question of the day at least:)
     
  7. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    Did you install off the CD provided or download from the website?

    I'm not totally sure on that but I think it's not loaded in the download.
     
  8. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    I originally downloaded the software about a week before I received the printer and then when I received the printer I installed over the previous download.
     
  9. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    Would you be willing to upload the contents of the CD?
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    BTW I just downloaded a MC from robo 3d's website and it has quality and material settings along with all the library files
     
  11. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    I uninstalled and reinstalled. when I reinstalled I noticed it saved all my settings. I uninstalled and deleted whatever associated file I could find , reinstalled again and same settings and no quality settings.
    Earlier I tried to print a spool holder for the filament and when I returned after ten minutes it was dragging the material. After that I haven't had a good print. Tomorrows another day.:)
     
  12. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    It will be helpful if you uploaded some additional images especially of the first layer. I have been out of the loop for a while but am getting some free time now. One thing to check is on the the to plastic parts that the switches are actually attached to, make sure that the plastic piece is as close to the same position on both couplers and that the both are at about the middle of the coupler. that will get you leveling to be a bit more uniform and accurate.

    The first layer is the most crucial of the print and the better it is the better your print will be. Here is an image of what you want to look for.

    _first layer example-text.jpg

    This image shows some of what you may be seeing in your attempts to set your first layer height by using the offset

    _filamentcross.jpg

    If your print was getting dragged around it was most likely that your filement was simply sitting on the bed like in 1,2 or 3
    look closely at the first pic and make sure your first layer looks as close to that as possible. That image is showing what 4 looks like in real life.
     
  13. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    forgot about the offsets sorry. In repetier the is a direct setting called Z offset which can be used to make this adjustment easily once you find what it is it should not change much as long as you are using the same filament so you should be good for a while once you know what it is. It is probably best to actually add it to the GCode as Mike says. If you use a different program like CURA for slicing it does not have that option so it has to be done in the start code.

    what you will look for in the code is a G28 command and just following that is where the G29 command goes that starts up the bed leveling routine after the bed leveling routine command comes your offset settings.

    so after the G29 you add this


    G1 Z(your offset) ->>>> example G1 Z1.0 is an offset of 1mm
    G92 Z0 ->>>> this simply resets the home position to be where the z is currently or your offset

    This allows the rest of the Gcode to function taking into account your offset


    Here is actual code with my offset added

    G21 ;metric values
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M107 ;start with the fan off
    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
    ********the two G28 commands go home for X and Y and in the next command z gets homed
    ********the autoleveling routine command should go next
    G29
    G1 Z0.7
    G92 Z0
    ******** the auto leveling routine command is issued and then my offset is added
    ******** the next command resets the Z home position to Z current height so offset is now added to everything
    G1 F12000
    M117 Printing...
    ;Layer count: 240
    ;LAYER:0
    M107
    G0 F12000 X101.59 Y112.21 Z0.20
    G0 X101.59 Y112.21
    ******** these are the first commands for the actual print
    I hope this helps out on the offsets if not ask more question we will help
     
  14. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    Hi mike and tesseract,
    Thanks for the help you gave. I was out of town last few days and didn't have time to work on the printer.
    Before I try anymore editing I'm hoping you could help me with what some of the g-codes mean.
    My G-code looks as follows:
    Start G-code
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
    M565 Z-1.8 ; Set the probe offset
    G29 ; probe bed
    I received a sheet of paper with my printer that said to edit the g-code M565 z-1 to m565 z-1.8.
    My offset value is currently -.6 Ive been adding it to my slice settings/printer/general/zoffset
    but when I turn off and on MC it doesn't save , So I would like to save to my g-code and that made me wonder is the M565 Z1.8 already changing my Z offset
    In case it helps here is my end G-code
    M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
    G1 X10 Y200
    M84 ; disable motors
    The filament cross section image is great. Im going to run some test of my offset values to see if it matches and edit if needed
     
  15. Darkhunter12

    Darkhunter12 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2014
    Messages:
    109
    Likes Received:
    8
    I had this problem as well as the Z-axis going down to far and Mike told me to " Did you modify the firmware? you need to set Z endstop min to be True for logic inversion," try that because when I changed it it resolved 2 of the problems I had.

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
     
  16. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    Thanks darhunter12 I don't know how to modify the firmware can you advise as to how
     
  17. Darkhunter12

    Darkhunter12 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2014
    Messages:
    109
    Likes Received:
    8
    You have to enter the marlin software, go into configure.h and click ctrl+f to find, then type in logic inversion and change it to true then click save, verify and upload! :) sorry if its a crap explanaition Im pretty tight on time. There are heaps of explanaitions on the web just google it

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
     
  18. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533

    OK well this is what I would do I assume your startup Gcode shown here is the default in MC if not please upload that
    if it is the defualt and you have been setting the offset in MC to -.6 I would set it to zero and add these lines to your startup G-Code directly after the G29 command

    G1 Z-0.6 ; move z axis down .6mm
    G92 Z0 ; reset Home for z to be its current value


    I assume again that your nozzle is hanging in the air right after the autolevel finishes its work. These two commands will literally re-assign the home to be -.6mm from where it finishes the autolevel routine. I ask because in my setup my nozzle ended up actually be too close to the bed and I had to do these commands but I used G1 Z0.9 in order to get the first layer to come out the way I wanted it to


    The M565 command is simply telling the firmware where the probe is in relation to the nozzle so it is not affected by any offset you entered but adjust this to beyond the 1.8 they say could have an effect on the autolevel itself.

    It is hard because it seems you are partially the way through a process and the best result would be to start fresh and explain exactly where it ends up after you have set thing just like they were explained in that document you got
    then we can all be in the same place
     
  19. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    This information I just provided was based on how I interpreted what you have been doing so like I said it may be better to start again.

    If you want to skype my info is in my sig just let me know
     
  20. Nemesiscoins

    Nemesiscoins New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    14
    Ive got the level finally set. The corners of the calibration box I printed had excess pla eventually making the corners messy / droopy. I figure I could modify by changing the micros but couldn't find it in MC. Any help is appreciate
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page