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Printing Speed?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Jimmy Husain, Dec 19, 2015.

  1. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    So, what do you guys set on your Robo? I mean your Default Printing Speed to get that quality printouts. 50mm/s? or less? or more?

    How about the Outline Underspeed?
     
    #1 Jimmy Husain, Dec 19, 2015
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is no 'pat' answer. Almost every parameter is interlinked :)

    If you are using a small nozzle and layer height trying to do fine detail then you are going to need to reduce speed in pretty much a linear way (i.e. 1/2 the nozzle and/or layer => 1/2 the speed).
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Dec 19, 2015
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I run at 45-60 max to hold decent prints. Using mc. Hoping aftere3d and s3d I can crank it up without lost qa.
     
    #3 Geof, Dec 19, 2015
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  4. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    I never actually pay attention to speed when I was on MC. After moving on to S3D then I started to learn after doing some tweaking & such. Right now I am under 35 mm/s. Slow it is but still not happy as some still needs support regardless of the slow speed.
     
    #4 Jimmy Husain, Dec 19, 2015
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hey @Jimmy Husain I have found that if you are trying to bridge areas, within reason, that you need to actually crank up the speed a bit. Slow and steady around the rest of the models to preserve details on low line heights, but about 30 - 50% faster on bridges.

    You can usually go a bit faster with hotter temps and larger layer heights, again within reason.
     
    #5 WheresWaldo, Dec 20, 2015
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  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Thanks Waldo! Good info for when I switch to s3d
     
    #6 Geof, Dec 20, 2015
  7. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    The reason I asked is that I am having some problems printing areas like below. I for sure need to slow it down & if my speed is *still* not slow enough, that I what I get. Then again I may need support to make it better. I thought with those overhang angle, the printer can still print those almost perfect provided the speed is right (with other settings too)

    bridge sample 1.jpg

    bridge sample 2.jpg
     
    #7 Jimmy Husain, Dec 20, 2015
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Looks like there is a slight curve under there on the left-most edge of that.
    It doesn't look like a straight layer. As is I would say that needs support.
    If you can rework it so that the layer is flatter (and more gradual angle like the part before the curve) then it would work.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Dec 20, 2015
  9. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    I guess so that those parts may need support.

    So after opening up my printer & checking all those needed to be checked (now my bed is grinding!)I decided to print these 2.

    Both a printed with 0.2 layers (2 outline/perimeter shells)
    Printing speed of 2100 mm/min
    Outline underspeed of 30%
    Solid infil underspeed of 75%
    Extrusion multipier of 98%
    Extrusion width of 0.38 mm

    bridge sample 3.jpg

    bridge sample 4.jpg

    The 1st photo is by far the best print I get for that particular model as I printed lots of those recently.
    The 2nd photo is still not that good BUT it is yes way better than the whole lots that I printed recently. No support used.

    BUT there is a major difference as for these two, the settings I used is not the same now. But hope I can getting better results but playing with those settings. I think I am going to do test prints using these model to find out which should be tweaked to get the best outcome, after I sort out my heatbed that is.
     
    #9 Jimmy Husain, Dec 21, 2015
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Welcome to 3D printing as a model maker :)
    Minor details in the model can make a huge difference with FDM* printing and even model orientation matters.

    I don't worry much about needed support materials since Simplify generates ones that can be almost invisible once removed (and they are really easy to pop off).
    I do try to avoid needing them to same material costs in larger models, but not at the expense of spending a lot of time designing it.

    *SLA is not vastly different and DLP adds its own issues.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Dec 21, 2015
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