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R2 FAQ

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by tkoco, Dec 24, 2019.

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  1. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Read through the C2 FAQ written by @mark tomlinson -> http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/faq-c2.19861/

    A lot of information posted there is applicable to the R2 printer since the two Robo printer products share a lot of common hardware and software.

    If you are having an R2 printer or a printing issue, please check the Troubleshooting area ( or other appropriate area ) and see if someone else has encountered your issue. If not, then ask for help there.

    When a reference is made to using alcohol for cleaning purposes, they are referring to 91% isopropyl alcohol which is available at most pharmacies.
     
    #1 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2019
  2. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The two main slicing software packages are Cura and Simplify 3D ( S3D ). The Cura software has been chosen as the default Robo desktop software https://robo3d.com/pages/desktop-software

    I ( and others ) use Cura and post Cura specific profiles from time to time. @mark tomlinson ( and others ) prefers S3D.

    Instructions for setting up Cura for a Linux Desktop -> http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/cura-c2-and-linux-a-beginners-journey.21119/

    While the posting was written for the C2 printer, it is applicable to the R2 printer and works.

    The main difference in the printer Machine Settings is:

    1) print volume ( 197, 197, 250 )
    2) 'heated bed' box is checked ( vs unchecked for a C2 printer )

    One other gotcha to fix:
    Cura is set up for the Ultimaker line of printers and those printer use a 2.85 mm diameter filament. The Robo line of printers use a 1.75 mm diameter filament. So click on the Extruder tab and change the Compatible Material Diameter from 2.85 to 1.75
     
    #2 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
  3. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Some Printing advise:

    The print bed temperature is recommended to not exceed 60 C. There can be electrical issues with higher temperatures - to include melting the power cable in one instance. Try to use as low of a print bed temperature as necessary for the filament being used on your printer.

    I recommend two mods for the R2:

    1) very easy - http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...eel-support-mod-for-c2-and-r2-printers.23519/

    2) harder to implement, but necessary for flexible filaments like NinjaFlex TPU - http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/r2-extruder-mod.23518/

    Because the flexible filaments print at a much slower speed, the print times can be long enough that the toothed gear and shaft of the extruder can heat up enough to cause printing failure. The #2 mod mitigates this heating issue.

    Check the Filament area for advise on flexible filaments.

    Also, in general, leave off the nice Robo magnetic plate which fits on the front of the extruder assembly. Several people, including myself, have experienced heat creep which can lead to a severely clogged hot-end.
     
    #3 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2019
  4. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Current software / firmware for the R2 as of December 2019:

    Main controller board firmware:

    https://github.com/Robo3D/Marlin/releases/tag/Marlin_1.1.6_RoboVersion_1.2.6

    If possible, use the Octoprint Firmware Updater plugin.

    Caution: Using the firmware URL directly can fail due to any hiccup in the connection between you and Github. I recommend that you download the firmware file to your local computer and use the browse option to point Octoprint to that file. The timing of the firmware update is critical!

    And

    Raspberry Pi -> Robo 2.0.0-r2.6

    A link to an image can be found in this posting:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/need-an-image-of-the-r2s-microsd-card.18831/

    Instructions on making a fresh SDcard can be found in the C2 FAQ
     
    #4 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2020 at 4:03 PM
  5. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Octoprint scripts:

    Download the attached script file ( zipped up ) and extract the Octoprint script.

    Log onto Octoprint, Settings -> GCODE Scripts, Delete the contents of the "Before print job starts" script. Copy and paste the contents of new script in place of the old script ( which you deleted ). Click on the Save button ( lower right corner ).

    The new script is set up for NinjaFlex filament. However, you can change the content by putting a ' ; ' at the beginning of a line to disable that command line...

    AND

    delete the ' ; ' at the beginning of a line to enable the line command.

    You would do this edit to enable a different type of filament and disable the old filament setting / command.

    When finished editing, click on the Save button.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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  7. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Getting parts for your R2 printer:

    The online store for Robo 3D has pretty much shutdown. https://partsbuilt.com/ has picked up the slack and offers many "wear and tear" items for the R2 printer ( and C2 printer as well )
     
  8. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Next for consideration:

    Bed Leveling. This aspect is very important. A sheet of 20 weight copier/printer paper is 0.1 mm thick. The R2 ( and C2 ) printer has a resolution of 0.02 mm ( or 20 microns ) The print bed must be reasonably level ( reference the extruder gantry ) or medium to large prints won't stick to the print bed properly. Typically, the corner of the print will lift from the print bed surface. Check the R2 Troubleshooting forum for the Bed leveling procedure.

    Cleanliness: The surface of the print bed should be free of finger prints and/or dust. If the print surface has either of these on it, there is a good chance that the prints won't properly stick to the print bed. Easiest way to clean it - 91% isopropol alcohol and a new paper towel. Typically, if the surface is "dirty", a print will lay down 20 or so layers and then lift off of the print bed resulting in a messy spaghetti print.

    Nozzle to Print Bed surface distance:
    If the distance is too large, the corners of the model will curl as well. If the distance is too small, then it is possible the nozzle might gouge the print bed surface ( dependent on the level of the print bed ). For the default 0.4 mm nozzle, the distance should be around 0.3 mm.
     
    #8 tkoco, Jan 10, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
  9. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Getting the latest desktop version of Cura to talk to the R2 / C2 printer:

    The R2 printer will need to be powered up and connected to your network. The desktop computer needs to be connected to the same network and running Cura.

    In Cura, you will need to install a plugin called OctoPrint Connection. As of Version 4.x of Cura, plugin modules are found under the Marketplace button (upper left corner)

    Log into the Octoprint server using a web browser. Typically the network URL would be the serial number (found on the back of the printer) plus a .local

    Example: printer serial number is wonderful-printer. The URL would be wonderful-printer.local

    Default login is pi / raspberry

    Settings menu -> look for API and open that selection. Copy the API Key presented by the Octoprint server. Note that the box can take up to a minute to populate an API Key. So be patient.

    In Cura 4.x: Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Printers -> Connect OctoPrint and paste the API key in the API Key box.
    There are 3 check box options below the AP{ Key box. I recommend checking the first 2 boxes and leave the last one unchecked.
    Close the menus.

    Done!
     
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  10. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Another tip for the care of your R2 ( or C2 ) printer:

    You have finished your printing session and desire to shutdown the printer. Wait until the extruder temperature drops below 60 C before going through the shutdown procedure.

    Unless you purge the filament right after the printing session, the extruder will have residual filament internally. Natural radiant cooling of the extruder can take a long time before approaching room temperature. In the mean while, the hot extruder is cooking / baking the residual filament ( like bread toasting in the toaster as an example ). This situation can lead to printing issues.

    RoboOS does not check if the extruder is cool enough before allowing the printer shutdown. So it falls to your shoulders to do so.
     
  11. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Another tip concerning powering down the R2 ( or C2 ) printer:

    During the power off sequence, the screen will state: After the screen turns blank, you may power off the printer .
    That statement is not true!
    After the screen goes blank, count to 10 slowly before turning off the power to the printer.

    Why?

    The Raspberry Pi is still writing to the SDcard after the screen goes blank. Waiting 10 seconds before powering off allows the Raspberry Pi to finish the last writing.

    Want to prove this to yourself?

    1) Tap the Motor Controls button and then the Raise Z button. Remove the snap-in lid and watch the Raspberry PI. You will see a green LED flash from time to time when the Raspberry Pi writes to the SDcard.
    2) While the lid is off, return to the Printer menu and tap the Utilities button, then System button and Shut down button.
    3) Tap Yes to confirm and watch the green LED after the screen goes blank. It will continue to blink until the Raspberry Pi is 100% finished. ( around 6 to 10 seconds )

    Removing power before the Raspberry Pi is finished writing to the SDcard can cause corruption of the SDcard.

    Place the snap-in lid back into the printer. Power up the R2 printer and Home the system. (Motor Controls)
     
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