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R2 FAQ

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by tkoco, Dec 24, 2019.

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  1. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Updates: From time to time, I will edit sections of this FAQ to add new information on a covered subject. If you have already read this FAQ in the past and currently have a problem, please take the time to re-check the FAQ and see if the answer has been added.

    Read through the C2 FAQ written by @mark tomlinson -> http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/faq-c2.19861/

    A lot of information posted there is applicable to the R2 printer since the two Robo printer products share a lot of common hardware and software.

    If you are having an R2 printer or a printing issue, please check the Troubleshooting area ( or other appropriate area ) and see if someone else has encountered your issue. If not, then ask for help there.

    When a reference is made to using alcohol for cleaning purposes, they are referring to 91% isopropyl alcohol which is available at most pharmacies.
     
    #1 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
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  2. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The two main slicing software packages are Cura and Simplify 3D ( S3D ). The Cura software has been chosen as the default Robo desktop software https://robo3d.com/pages/desktop-software

    I ( and others ) use Cura and post Cura specific profiles from time to time. @mark tomlinson ( and others ) prefers S3D.

    Instructions for setting up Cura for a Linux Desktop -> http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/cura-c2-and-linux-a-beginners-journey.21119/

    While the posting was written for the C2 printer, it is applicable to the R2 printer and works.

    The main difference in the printer Machine Settings is:

    1) print volume ( 197, 197, 250 )
    2) 'heated bed' box is checked ( vs unchecked for a C2 printer )

    One other gotcha to fix:
    Cura is set up for the Ultimaker line of printers and those printer use a 2.85 mm diameter filament. The Robo line of printers use a 1.75 mm diameter filament. So click on the Extruder tab and change the Compatible Material Diameter from 2.85 to 1.75
     
    #2 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
  3. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Some Printing advise:

    The print bed temperature is recommended to not exceed 60 C. There can be electrical issues with higher temperatures - to include melting the power cable in one instance. Try to use as low of a print bed temperature as necessary for the filament being used on your printer.

    Update: A recent thread has been posted which includes a mod for the heated bed: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/v2-bed-over-80c.23897/

    -----

    I recommend these two mods for the R2:

    1) very easy - http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...eel-support-mod-for-c2-and-r2-printers.23519/

    2) harder to implement, but necessary for flexible filaments like NinjaFlex TPU - http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/r2-extruder-mod.23518/

    Because the flexible filaments print at a much slower speed, the print times can be long enough that the toothed gear and shaft of the extruder can heat up enough to cause printing failure. The #2 mod mitigates this heating issue.

    Check the Filament area for advise on flexible filaments.

    Also, in general, leave off the nice Robo magnetic plate which fits on the front of the extruder assembly. Several people, including myself, have experienced heat creep which can lead to a severely clogged hot-end.
     
    #3 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: May 1, 2020
  4. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Current software / firmware for the R2 as of December 2019:

    Main controller board firmware:

    To check on the firmware version: Log into Octoprint, Click on Settings. Then in the left panel,
    click on EEprom Marlin Editor Plugin.

    Source for firmware:

    https://github.com/Robo3D/Marlin/releases/tag/Marlin_1.1.6_RoboVersion_1.2.6

    If possible, use the Octoprint Firmware Updater plugin.

    Caution: Using the firmware URL directly can fail due to any hiccup in the connection between you and Github. I recommend that you download the firmware file to your local computer and use the browse option to point Octoprint to that file. The timing of the firmware update is critical!

    And

    Raspberry Pi -> Robo 2.0.0-r2.6

    Easiest way to check on the version: At the R2 printer LCD - tap Utilities -> Update

    The following link is too old. Please ignore it!

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/need-an-image-of-the-r2s-microsd-card.18831/ <-- older version of RoboOS from 2017

    A more up to date link is this one:

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QHw_hFCvTS6OIn4TMS0COWR8ac4AylMv

    The serial number has been fixed to "r2image-robo2". On first boot up, the image will automatically expand to the size of the SDcard. The minimum SDcard size is 8 Gb. I recommend using a 16 Gb or 32 Gb sized SDcard. Use SSH to log into the RoboOS and then change the '/etc/hostname' contents to match the printer serial number. Use 'ssh pi@r2image-robo2.local' (password 'raspberry') and then 'sudo nano /etc/hostname' and change it to the serial number. Save it and then exit and reboot the R2 printer.

    Instructions on making a fresh SDcard can be found in the C2 FAQ

    Once you have the OS and firmware correct, do not "update" either item. If you plugin different Marlin firmware from the official Robo version, you will break the Wizards in the RoboOS LCD software. And possibly create new problems.

    With all which has been said, if you decide to experiment with RoboOS or the Marlin firmware, please backup the SDcard (via an external computer) and firmware settings (via Octoprint). You will be able to return your printer to a known state.
     
    #4 tkoco, Dec 24, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2020
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  5. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Octoprint scripts:

    Download the attached script file ( zipped up ) and extract the Octoprint script.

    Log onto Octoprint, Settings -> GCODE Scripts, Delete the contents of the "Before print job starts" script. Copy and paste the contents of new script in place of the old script ( which you deleted ). Click on the Save button ( lower right corner ).

    The new script is set up for NinjaFlex filament. However, you can change the content by putting a ' ; ' at the beginning of a line to disable that command line...

    AND

    delete the ' ; ' at the beginning of a line to enable the line command.

    You would do this edit to enable a different type of filament and disable the old filament setting / command.

    When finished editing, click on the Save button.
     

    Attached Files:

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  6. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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  7. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Getting parts for your R2 printer:

    The online store for Robo 3D has pretty much shutdown. https://partsbuilt.com/ has picked up the slack and offers many "wear and tear" items for the R2 printer ( and C2 printer as well )
     
  8. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Next for consideration:

    Bed Leveling. This aspect is very important. A sheet of 20 weight copier/printer paper is 0.1 mm thick. The R2 ( and C2 ) printer has a resolution of 0.02 mm ( or 20 microns ) The print bed must be reasonably level ( reference the extruder gantry ) or medium to large prints won't stick to the print bed properly. Typically, the corner of the print will lift from the print bed surface. Check the R2 Troubleshooting forum for the Bed leveling procedure.

    Cleanliness: The surface of the print bed should be free of finger prints and/or dust. If the print surface has either of these on it, there is a good chance that the prints won't properly stick to the print bed. Easiest way to clean it - 91% isopropol alcohol and a new paper towel. Typically, if the surface is "dirty", a print will lay down 20 or so layers and then lift off of the print bed resulting in a messy spaghetti print.

    Nozzle to Print Bed surface distance:
    If the distance is too large, the corners of the model will curl as well. If the distance is too small, then it is possible the nozzle might gouge the print bed surface ( dependent on the level of the print bed ). For the default 0.4 mm nozzle, the distance should be around 0.3 mm.

    Z Offset values:
    Due to the physical construction of the R2 (and C2) printer, all Z Offset value must be a negative number. If you are having trouble getting the Z Offset wizard to work, check the Z Offset value. If it is a positive number, the Z Offset wizard will not work! You will need to change it to a negative number.
    The other possibility of the Z Offset wizard not working could be a software conflict between RoboOS and the Marlin firmware. Please read the software posting earlier in this FAQ.

    Here is another way to think about the Z Offset values. On a Prusa printer, you are asking "How far up do I need to move the extruder assembly to be at the correct height?" Thus you need a positive value. With a Robo printer, you are asking "How far down do I need to move the print bed to be at the correct height?" Thus you need a negative value.
     
    #8 tkoco, Jan 10, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2020
  9. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Getting the latest desktop version of Cura to talk to the R2 / C2 printer:

    The R2 printer will need to be powered up and connected to your network. The desktop computer needs to be connected to the same network and running Cura.

    In Cura, you will need to install a plugin called OctoPrint Connection. As of Version 4.x of Cura, plugin modules are found under the Marketplace button (upper left corner)

    Log into the Octoprint server using a web browser. Typically the network URL would be the serial number (found on the back of the printer) plus a .local

    Example: printer serial number is wonderful-printer. The URL would be wonderful-printer.local

    Default login is pi / raspberry

    Settings menu -> look for API and open that selection. Copy the API Key presented by the Octoprint server. Note that the box can take up to a minute to populate an API Key. So be patient.

    In Cura 4.x: Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Printers -> Connect OctoPrint and paste the API key in the API Key box.
    There are 3 check box options below the AP{ Key box. I recommend checking the first 2 boxes and leave the last one unchecked.
    Close the menus.

    Done!
     
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  10. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Another tip for the care of your R2 ( or C2 ) printer:

    You have finished your printing session and desire to shutdown the printer. Wait until the extruder temperature drops below 60 C before going through the shutdown procedure.

    Unless you purge the filament right after the printing session, the extruder will have residual filament internally. Natural radiant cooling of the extruder can take a long time before approaching room temperature. In the mean while, the hot extruder is cooking / baking the residual filament ( like bread toasting in the toaster as an example ). This situation can lead to printing issues.

    RoboOS does not check if the extruder is cool enough before allowing the printer shutdown. So it falls to your shoulders to do so.
     
  11. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Another tip concerning powering down the R2 ( or C2 ) printer:

    During the power off sequence, the screen will state: After the screen turns blank, you may power off the printer .
    That statement is not true!
    After the screen goes blank, count to 10 slowly before turning off the power to the printer.

    Why?

    The Raspberry Pi is still writing to the SDcard after the screen goes blank. Waiting 10 seconds before powering off allows the Raspberry Pi to finish the last writing.

    Want to prove this to yourself?

    1) Tap the Motor Controls button and then the Raise Z button. Remove the snap-in lid and watch the Raspberry PI. You will see a green LED flash from time to time when the Raspberry Pi writes to the SDcard.
    2) While the lid is off, return to the Printer menu and tap the Utilities button, then System button and Shut down button.
    3) Tap Yes to confirm and watch the green LED after the screen goes blank. It will continue to blink until the Raspberry Pi is 100% finished. ( around 6 to 10 seconds )

    Removing power before the Raspberry Pi is finished writing to the SDcard can cause corruption of the SDcard.

    Place the snap-in lid back into the printer. Power up the R2 printer and Home the system. (Motor Controls)
     
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  12. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    More info on the red/black wire pair coming off of the Raspberry Pi GPIO bus connector;

    rpi.jpg

    That pair of wires go to the filament out sensor board.

    r2.jpg

    If you replace the cable going from the Raspberry Pi ( RPI ) to the LCD Touch screen, you should connect the dangling wire pair of the new cable at the RPI to the cabling going to the filament sensor.

    Caveat: My R2 printer is a 2019 production model. It is possible that early models of R2 printer use a different means to talk with the filament sensor.
     
    #12 tkoco, Apr 13, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2020
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think it is the same, my early production C2 is using this same approach.
     
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  14. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The General Questions area has some good advise posted concerning the R2. (Made as sticky posts for easy reading)
     
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  15. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    With regards to networking connectivity, RoboOS will not connect to a 10.x.x.x subnet. RoboOS expects a network subnet of 192.168.x.x
    This situation is true for the C2 printer as well.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly right and I found this out the hard way.
    Many routers do not give you options on which subnet to use ...
     
  17. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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  18. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Slicing software can introduce problems. Point in case: I use the appimage version of Cura under Linux. The latest version is 4.7.1. I was running 4.7.0 and decided to upgrade to 4.7.1. In the middle of a print, I kept getting a thermal runaway error which would cause a print disconnect. I could not find a problem with the hot-end or main board. So I reverted to the earlier version of Cura and tried printing the same model. The model finished without errors.

    So, just because they release an updated version of Cura does not mean that the latest version of Cura is faultless.

    I use the appimage version as it allows me to revert Cura by updating a desktop link. I always keep the last version or two for the above reason.:)
     
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