Solved Removing Hotend on R1+

Hi all!
I know it's pretty bad for my first post to be a negative one, but I do need some help so I'll explain.

I got the R1+ yesterday and I had been printing flawlessly the first night. I got four prints done (small ones, I printed out some 1:200 scale tanks) and shut the printer down for the night. I kinda n00bishly did not remove the filament (PLA btw, need to establish that now) and I came back today wanting to get some prints done.

The machine calibrated fine and I wanted to switch over to another color (I was using the PLA provided with the printer) so i took the PLA out with no resistance and put some black Hatchbox PLA in. I wanted to get the black flowing before the print started to I used matter control to extrude some filament.

To my misfortune nothing was coming out so i used a cleaning bit to clean the nozzle out. Some blue started to come out but the stopped. I began to try and unclog the hotend again to no avail.

I unscrewed the extruder latch and tried to manually feed the extruder. Nothing came out.

So after watching some videos here and on YouTube, my conclusion on my own is to remove the hotend so i can clean it. My only problem is that the videos show the normal R1 and the R1+ has a different printhead design and the two screws to hold the hotend in place are not there.

So, if any of you guys know how to take the hotend off the R1+ please explain to me how to do it.
If you need any pictures of the printhead I can get them on here.

Thanks for any help!

 

There's an aluminum bar holding the hot end in place. You should be able to pull on it and have it come loose, but you might need to loosen the screw on the underside of the carriage *not* under the fan. This will allow you to swing the arm out then the hot end will be able to be pulled out:
http://imgur.com/a/eLCH6

 

Thanks so much Mike!
My Robo is working just fine now, and is printing an oiler for my future PLA exploits as I type!

I certainly thought it was going to be more difficult than it was actually; but this new system on the R1+ seems to be even more simple than the regular R1.

Do you know how easy it might be to upgrade the hotend later? It seems the hole cutout for the heatsink and the notch in the aluminum latch might be the only things I can think of that would be a problem.

Thanks again!

 

The v6 has a slightly larger groove opening so it'll drop in very easily.

 

As it is "removing hot end" thread I'd like to ask a question. I removed hexagon hot end and cool end by unscrewing thous 2 screws at the side of extruder. Then after cleaning it up I screw it back, but I've rotated the hot end , so that the thermistor is right now at the left site (the same where hot end cooler is placed). Is it wrong or it doesn't matter where the thermistor is?

 

That's right I've got Robo3D R1 (2014 edition) with hexagon hot end.

I put it into the little hole in the heater block and then placed the rubber cover.
BTW one more question... does standard hexagon hotend in Robo3D support filaments widths like 1.6 mm or it should be always 1.75 mm?

 

This SHOULD REALLY be in the MANUAL and their VIDEO....

I've ran into broken filament 3 times now. Once with my R1 model...and twice with my R1+.

This is OBVIOUSLY the fastest, easiest, and SAFEST method.

 

God Bless their Tech Support this Best Buy Holiday Season....is all I have written to them...

 

Just took my hotend out and my thing isn't even aluminum. It's plastic. Still it was good to know what I was looking for because I'm like where the hell are these 2 damn screws!

 

Yeah Plastic. It does flex a bit when closing it to secure the hot end, but it's not somethign that should be used too much so it should be okay.

 

I see the screw, but where is the aluminum rod?

 

Also for those doing an E3DV6 update. Someone had put a STL file for the quick release plate on thingeverse. Nice new design feature and works well. I am upgrading all of my printers.

 

I thought upgrading to the E3Dv6 wasn't exactly "drop and play". I've read Mike's guide and it seems like some drilling is required to accommodate the Bowden tube and whatnot. Am I mistaken?

 

No you are correct you need to drill for bowden and initail instillation is a little bit of work if you run your wires all the way to the ramps. I just spliced into the existing thermister and heater wires so it was easy. The quick change plate is an additional up grade you can do after you have the E3DV6 nozzle .

 

Just got my R1+ a couple of weeks ago. My nozzle is jammed and I'm trying to get it out to have a closer look. My pull-tab is plastic. When I turn the 'quick-release' screw the nut just turns along with it. The nut is round, so is not captive at all, and it either has some rubber in it or someone used some lock-tight (I can't see it that well) so it's really locked to the screw. I can't even hold onto the nut with a pair of needle-nose because it's round.

Is this really how these are supposed to be assembled? This is terrible - it's nearly impossible to get apart the way it's put together.