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Unresolved Robo3D and Cura

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have never had PLA warp. Not just good ol' plain PLA.
    ABS -- yep. Warp city without good heat mgmt.
    Nylon -- yep. Some warpage can be had (even the nylon bridge can warp a bit)
    PLA -- nope. Nada.

    However, ignoring warp don't be afraid to play with temp. Find what works best with your filament.
    Every spool can be different and some run hotter, some cooler.
    The reason advice would tend low is simply that much of good printing is heat management.
    So the less you use the less you have to deal with.
     
    #21 mark tomlinson, Feb 20, 2015
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That starter filament isn't great.

    You should try calibrating your E steps per mm
     
    #22 Mike Kelly, Feb 20, 2015
  3. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    A tale of three prints. All printed at 60mm/sec Bed offset -0.435 from averaging the 9 points reported.
    Left: 220/75 temps 90% flow. Aborted because it was peeling off the bed. Warping.
    Middle: 225/75 and 90% flow. Sides look awful, top is bad. Center hole started out ok but at the top it's disintegrated.
    Right: same temps, and 80% flow, About the same really all around.

    Off to do steps/mm calibration. 20150220_140721_HDR.jpg
     
    #23 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Is your parts cooling fan working?
     
    #24 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  5. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    The blades on the fans go round and round, round and round, round and round... :) Both of them.
     
    #25 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  6. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    You mentioned earlier in the thread that you're having trouble at lower temps, but those pictures all look like pretty standard symptoms of too hot and not enough cooling / not enough time to cool.
    It's hard to tell from where you stopped it, but the pic on the left appears to have complete top fill on the top shape it was filling in. That's probably closer to the right temp than the 225 for the two pics on the right.
     
    #26 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  7. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    The left print had only just left the base. Those are all the same object, it wasn't doing top fill by a long shot.

    I am getting conflicting advice on temperatures, <<<-- go that way -->>>

    Printing the cal cube now in matter control. Looks tapered inward like the bottom of a tall pyramid, and the top corners are distinctly pointed up.
     
    #27 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  8. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Cal cube printed at 195c/70c in matter control. Measures at 20x20x9. I am reprinting after changing the Z steps per appropriately. 20150220_151804_HDR.jpg 20150220_151846_HDR.jpg
     
    #28 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
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  9. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Much better. It actually still looks hot, which is odd given that you're down to 195. Maybe it's because the bed temp is so high. 70C is 10-15 degrees above the glass transition temp for PLA, so maybe that is giving some trouble. Try dropping the bed down to 50 and maybe even another 5 lower on the filament.

    I don't know why you're getting conflicting advice on temperature. Every pic you've posted in this thread has been too hot / not enough cooling. Maybe something you posted in another thread got them thinking it was an issue of temp being too low?

    Regarding my comment on top infill, I can see that you're not at the top of your part. Any flat surface parallel to the bed is considered a top surface. When you tell your slicer you want a top thickness of Xmm or X layers, it applies that thickness/number of layers to any surface parallel to the plane of the bed facing up. Likewise, bottom is applied to any surface parallel to the plane of the bed facing down, not just the layers that are directly touching the build plate. So, that top infill in the part on the far left looks great, but the two on the right are full of holes at the same point in the build.
     
    #29 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  10. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    I just found out the robo won't print a skirt at 195. (wtf?) I think it's a firmware limit, it may not even print at all at 190, haven't tried.

    When I drop my bed temperature, I get adhesion issues.

    I'll try anything.
     
    #30 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  11. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    You should not be having trouble sticking to the bed below 70 with PLA. That is really hot for PLA.
    What are you using to help your prints stick to the bed?
     
    #31 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  12. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Aquanet extra hold
     
    #32 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  13. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I've started using Mod Podge glossy and printing around 40C. Sticks like crazy until the temp drops down, then it pops off.
     
    #33 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  14. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Peeling off the bed again at 50.
     
    #34 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  15. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    weird. it shouldn't be. your first layer seems pretty good. If 70 works for you, then go with 70.
     
    #35 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  16. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    When I updated Cura I had a similar problem with flaky weak layers when I didn't change my filament diameter back to 1.75, Cura's default is 2.85
     
    #36 Marquis Johnson, Feb 20, 2015
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  17. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    weird. it shouldn't be. your first layer seems pretty good. If 70 works for you, then go with 70.
     
    #37 Printed Solid, Feb 20, 2015
  18. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Trying it at 60, it's peeling up again.
     
    #38 dbvanhorn, Feb 20, 2015
  19. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    If it is peeling up at 60 you are likely too far from the bed still on the first layer. Come down another .1mm and see what happens.
     
    #39 Stephen Capistron, Feb 20, 2015
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That looks a lot like the blue Robo filament.
    Seriously, try a different filament.
     
    #40 mark tomlinson, Feb 20, 2015
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