Some homemade enclosures for the "thrifty"

So, I've gone through a couple iterations of enclosure. I keep my house cool and furthermore print in the basement. you think a "room temp" draft will warp your stuff, try a 15 degree draft when someone opens the front door and it rushes down the stairs to your printer!

I did the15 second enclosure.
I did the cheapo slightly more usable enclosure..

Most recently I did a 2 hour, ~$45 enclosure.
2 hours does not include letting glue set. Minimum tools. Table or circular saw (or cnc router/laser cutter), clamps of your favorite variety. Some paper towels to wipe up glue.

Contains:
2 sheets 1/4" MDF $10
2 butt hinges $4
1 magnetic latch $1.60
4 stainless cheese head screws. 6mm?x20? to replace the short counter sunk screws that hold on the original box ($4)
1 24x36 sheet of acrylic (thin, like .096" I think it said) (somewhere in the $20 vicinity)
1 24x18? something like that acrylic. (somewhere in the $ 10 vicinity)
1 tube (small as they make) liquid nails construction adhesive (had some on hand.. prolly $5)
Top acrylic can be deleted to save about $15-20 (replace with 1/4 mdf or w/e)

Measure up the fore and aft distance the machine travels. Cut sides to length, mark and drill. Attach them straight to the machine and use the slight taper of the base to act as clamping force. Assemble in place.
I used 16.5" for the distance between sides.

Must support the Z rods by building a box with holes in it where the Z rods go. They are NOT symmetrical to the box, so don't just measure center of one and transpose. Hang the wire, print an oiler of your choice... blammo.
I used nylon nuts and bolts to attach the front acrylic so as not to accidentally crack it. Printed a knob and affixed with high strength silicone (seal-all, really the only silicone you'll ever need and its solvent resistant).

Works like a charm. very sturdy (ensure proper boxing supports). Its like a hot box in there. Also the MDF does not transmit sound very readily. Top is set in a recess, not attached for easy fiddling.

 

Yup, the case is bottomless, raised, low speed high volume fan cooled, and the power supply is turned upside down to vent down (previously from case). Still with the case so tall, I worry about stability. But so far so good. Next step... bowden cold end and e3d hotend to lower z wobble. Have all the parts "in the mail".

The air movement was my big battle. I despise warping. So frustrating. Shouldn't have to happen with ABS. It never did till I moved to the basement after noise complaints from the family (yes, we have subterranean windows). Secondary was printing in a temperature stable environment. Its not heated, but for the extruder and platform, but that stabilizes the temp a lot more than outside the box. Keeps everything nice and stable. Still... printing raft with 50 degree F filament can overpower the heater momentarily and get it to shut down. I may eventually move the spool holder into the box.

 

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Nice Work. Anybody who prints or plans to print at home, filament notwithstanding, need to be mindful of the increase in the volume of noise. And eventually it will become an issue with the rest of the household. I've been looking for some time for the right enclosure – and I have now found it. Take the cover off and attach the enclosure. Very Good.

From the pitcher, it's unclear how you are feeding the filament into the enclosure? Without imparting any undue tension on the filament. Please explain.