1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

The horror... the horror....

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Island Bill, Sep 11, 2014.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Island Bill

    Island Bill Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2014
    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    76
    Excellent catch Mark. The answer is, it's the cooling fan mounted directly to the heat sink on the print head -- called the 'active cooling fan' I suppose because it's on at all times. The same issue MUST have existed with the E3D print head's active cooling, but the nozzle wouldn't jam up over it. I think this is because the E3D's sheer SIZE made it more forgiving of the fan cutting in and out at intervals of less than a second or two. The heat sink on the print head is easily half again as large as the R1's all metal head. And that was the reason I never caught it before.

    That's my theory, anyway.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Yea, that should always be on if the hotend is hot (or heating). Not having that on is a problem and will certainly wreck a print.
    It will not be consistent (since the time involved to cause a problem will vary). Check your wiring to the RAMPS board. Worst case (assuming you want to fix it yourself) just wire it to an always on 12v. No harm. no foul if it is on when the hotend is cold.

    Mind you I would still suggest you go through Robo support ticket, yada, yada and make them do the customer service thing (they need the practice). Just that you may not want to wait for that help to materialize.
     
  3. Island Bill

    Island Bill Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2014
    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    76
    WE
    Well as I said Mark, I've already fixed it. The print is at 43% and is perhaps the cleanest looking print I've had come off the printer.

    Something that may surprise you is that I don't ascribe this issue to Robo3D's quality control. When I was in my twenties and early thirties, I made a living building MDFs and IDFs in the phone closets of large office buildings. A few times in my career I found entire rolls of jumper wire were bad. This was due to the metal having many microscopic cracks in it, which in turn was a result of the roll having been spooled on to the spool when the copper was too cold -- a calibration issue at the plant. This is a rare occurrence, but it happens nonetheless in the wire and cable industry. This might well have been what happened here, as I saw no kinking or smashed sections of the wire. I think they just got a bad roll. Still, I'll take your advice and alert them in case anyone else runs across the same problem.

    This issue has been the exception that proves the rule -- When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses before you look for zebras. lol
     
    2 people like this.
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    :)

    Glad to hear you have it going.

    Once you get it dialed in the printer can do really (amazingly) good quality prints.
     
  5. JayT

    JayT Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2014
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    31
    Just thought I would chime in here as another new(ish) Robo3D user.
    It definitely took a lot more work than I thought it would to get to where I am at now, but thanks to some very helpful people (Mike, Mark, Jeff and a few others) I am getting fast to the point where I am getting consistently good prints; but I tell ya, if I didn't have a load of patience and I hadn't done enough research to know I would be doing some work, I would have flipped. I really do feel for those poor souls who buy into the "set it and forget it" shtick, but as has been said so many times before: a little research goes a long way.
    @Island Bill, glad you figured out your issue and happy to hear it may not be a QC problem that got you in the muck, but I have to say it: Quality Control and support at this company are terrible lol. Unless you shoot an email to the exact right address and give a mention on the forums and facebook page as well, you aren't likely to be heard. So in that respect it is a little bit like going to the doctor: You have to show that you are pro-active in your efforts to get things fixed up, otherwise they will be happy to lead you along your way with a pat and a smile, and they are happy to send you away with scissors still in your stomach; if you are lucky to get that much. :p
    I had bearings coming out of their housing, mismatched springs, shoddy wiring, a bed that won't heat up past 85° and numerous other issues that I never really expected (well, I expected some of them lol); but after tinkering about like the other fellows said (which has and continues to be an excellent learning experience; if not something that takes up a lot of time lol) I am to the point where I am really quite happy with the purchase.
    For the most part now, I can set something up, check the first layer (I nearly always have to adjust one rod up or down manually to get things just right) and then let it print away.


    :)
     
    3 people like this.
  6. JayT

    JayT Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2014
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    31
    And the funny thing is, I'm not a doctor!

    HA!

    :)
     
    2 people like this.
  7. collin

    collin New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Messages:
    313
    Likes Received:
    86
    I'm an engineer spelling is my weakest suite lol
     
  8. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    110
    But I'll bet you stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Island Bill

    Island Bill Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2014
    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    76
    Update: The fkn thing clogged at 85% for no reason that I can fathom. The material just jammed up in the print head, and the printer went merrily along in thin air. No feed problems. No fan problems. Nothing obvious. It just fkn jammed. I'm about ready to take a shotgun to the god()*&()Umned thing.
     
  10. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    110
    [​IMG]

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
  11. Island Bill

    Island Bill Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2014
    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    76
    LOL
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    OILER dude. Oiler. It absolutely cures PLA jammage and doesn't hurt any other material I have used.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    110
  14. Island Bill

    Island Bill Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2014
    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    76
    Thanks guys, I appreciate the tip. I did find another bad spot in the wire this morning, and I'll be replacing the entire run today. I will also look into the oiler concept. NOTE: I am printing almost exclusively with carbon fiber reinforced PLA from Proto Pasta. Any input as to how the oiler might affect that material differently?
    Again, thanks.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    It works wonderfully with that filament (I have some and LOVE it).
    It has worked fine with every filament I have tested (PLA, PLA variants like CF, BronzeFill, WoodFIll, etc. and ABS).
     
  16. Island Bill

    Island Bill Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2014
    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    76
    Ok then, thanks. Since I'm already using the shell of a cheap ball point pen as a sort of guide for the material, I'll stuff some cotton in that. Would mineral oil be a decent choice? I'm already using that to lubricate gears I printed with Talman Bridge....
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Supposed to be vegatable oil, Canola oil being the preference. However any vegatable oil will suffice.

    The pen housing will work fine.
     
  18. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    110
    The smaller the oiler, the more frequently you'll need to add oil.

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
    3 people like this.
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    Don't user mineral oil. You need something high temp. Avacado oil works great, as does canola. I've heard people use 3in1 oil to decent success.
     
    3 people like this.
  20. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    1,605
    Likes Received:
    1,003
    You'll be OK here. The UM2 is amazing (and oh, by the way, as of about a week ago, also assembled in the US), but people have issues with that as well. There is a learning curve with 3D printers. Even with the higher priced machines. Browse the UM forum and you'll see people as frustrated as yourself. Browse the makerbot forums... oh wait, they shut them down because people were complaining too much o_O

    Printing is like PCs in the 80s. It's all community.
    If the community is good, everyone gets support. Everyone has fun. Everyone makes awesomeness.
    If not, everything sucks.

    PMs are on the way.
     
    3 people like this.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page