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Understanding the MK2A PCB HeatBed, R1 swaparoo

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by jim3Dbot, Aug 30, 2016.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That Mk2B is what I consider typical, the Mk42 is much better.
     
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  2. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Agree........Just chking that out...thinner with better heat dispersion.......They are using on their new printer release....$699.00
     
  3. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah and I WISH he would make the PCB available for purchase separately. I guess I can email him to see. They are great printers for the price of the kit. Tom was saying the material it is built out of is very durable.
     
  4. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Videos showing heat dispersion thru the MK2a with 1/4 of the Heatbed & the full Heatbed connected


     
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  5. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Good questions about how introducing either an aluminum plate or borosilicate glass could be an insulator or heat sync requiring more power out time to heat. Waiting to see the next video. :)
     
  6. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    On topic for PCB and heated beds. Here is a great video on cautioning you on the use of your heated beds. Can't stress this enough really. Great stuff. He also touches again on the fact that quality of the PCB copper is important.

     
    #26 danzca6, Sep 17, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2016
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  7. Gregg Teaby

    Gregg Teaby New Member

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    Since this posting I have added a sheet of 1/16 fiberglass over the cork. The temp is now 2 to 4 degrees across rhe entire bed


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  8. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Thanks @Gregg Teaby @danzca6 for your latest inputs on the this thread. Greg, very interesting results with your fiberglass, cork, stock cork, attached with hvac tape........Since the mod is relativity easy, even with milling the hex-heads, some may incorporate that method. I'm tryin' to sort out this PCB Heater thing, in my own mind..........

    In a off-subject, but pertinent PCB subject, I ran into, concerning heat dispersion on a PCB surface...okay grammar school run-on sentence.

    I designed two entirely different applications, using hi-power 5 watt RGB LEDs, the first project:

    The 1st to design a small round PCB to be inserted into a coconut, cut the top 2" off, add appropriate mounting hardware for the Aluminum PCB, containing three, 5w, RGB's....The aluminum PCB is in the bulb, by the way Parts 006.jpg the bottom was cut-off to allow the down light to happen Palm Tree (8) .jpg ......three coconuts were hung high into artificial 12-20ft Coconut tree.....an visual/audio outdoor control panel was incorporated driven by an Apple Shuffle with MP3's loaded ie: Styx, Come sail away, Sea Gulls & ocean wave surf sound effects, thunderstorms, RF Controlled Palm Tree Control Box 001.jpg ............very cool & relaxing as the RGBs driven from the changing audio intensity. Designed for the privileged ones.

    See I told you this is sorta' off base.....well anyways, the LEDs got hot in that nut..........so an aluminum PCB was needed to be installed, this job was 4 years ago & my 1st design with that kinda of heat on an FR4 board.........The new aluminum board worked great......I was skeptical then.....when the China Aluminum PCB's arrived, I seen 1st hand, a small round aluminum Board with a thin layer of white epoxy insulator with the printed traces on the epoxy insulator, "Aluminum Printed Circuit Boards Contain a Thin Layer of Thermally Conductive Dielectric Material that Transfers Heat".. Today, many high power LED flashlights, lamps, etc. all contain non-FR4 aluminum PCB's. Now, the 3D Printing designers are looking at & some are already have.....Aluminum non FR4 PCB's, not like the one I am testing. These should have an Excellent & Uniform heat transfer from the alum. side. With the correct coating adhered you may receive excellent printing right from one piece installed bed..........something to keep in the back of your mind.........

    About two years ago, I designed a 1 meter in length 60 watt mechanically programmable Red/Blue LED light fixture for a Colorado Co. yeah you get the idea..............anyways, used the alum. LED design with thermally conductive epoxy attached directly to the aluminum rail. I 3d printed the receivers for spring pins & extrusion covers.........many are in use. Sorry can't share pic's at this time....

    There are many names for these products; Aluminum clad, aluminum base, Metal clad printed Circuit Board (MCPCB), Insulated Metal Substrate(IMS or IMPCB), Thermally conductive PCBs, etc

    Finally, with a skeptical attitude, I scratched like hell into the white dielectric insulator of one of the 'sacrificial lamb' Al. PCBs . I had a hard time breaking into the bare aluminum underneath to achieve a short between the scratched surface & the rear aluminum of the PCB.........for someone who has been PCB layout & design for +40 years...I was truly impressed.

    ***Final comment, many of us here, are not here to print trinkets, although we all do, it's the journey into this new consumer technology. Safety should always be considered. Never purchase any after market mod & install without carefully understanding what how it should perform.
    Modifying & experimentation should be the norm here............ @danzca6 posted some warnings concerning just this..........forever, PCB designers always considered how that PCB is going to be mounted, Mounting holes: How many for proper mechanical support, not to put plating in holes, unless designed for grounding purposes, what hardware is to be used...many times 1/4" aluminum standoffs.....Ahhhh, I noticed that right away on these PCBs......always use fiber, nylon, PTFE, mica, or shoulder washers in them holes or make it right the first time designers..........

    Well, later today I want to shoot off a couple of videos on other modes of heating that PCB...then we will get at mounting it........Hey! Take Care guys & thanks...........Jimmy
     

    Attached Files:

    #28 jim3Dbot, Sep 21, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  9. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Robo R1 Stock Heater Time to 100c, Part 5

    Just a benchmark to continue on....


     
  10. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Disassembly of the R1 Stock HeatBed, working towards better heat coverage & @WheresWaldo Mesh IR in progress code'in............

     

    Attached Files:

    #30 jim3Dbot, Sep 23, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2016
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