1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Uneven first layer with new probe

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Sean Carson, Jul 28, 2017.

  1. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    I installed the IR probe and flashed the lasest marlin UBL firmware. I dialed in the Z offset and got two temperature calibration towers printed.

    My first real print is showing major leveling problems. I'm not sure whats going wrong.

    http://imgur.com/a01cnIQ
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,673
    Likes Received:
    2,292
    If you've already leveled the bed phsyically and ensured the x axis is level with the bed then you have a multi warped bed and I'd suggest using @WheresWaldo s mesh bed leveling firmware upgrade (much easier if you run off a LCD controller)
     
  3. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    That’s the thing, I don’t think it’s multi warping.

    What am I supposed to use to set the z-offset? I’m thinking rather than applying -2.1 mm to z, it’s setting an absolute -2.1 after the probe.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    Please post your messages related to projects/modifications in the projects area.
    This is the second one I have moved for you -- thanks.
     
  5. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    I’m sorry. I guess I’m not understanding the criteria for putting problems in the troubleshooting area.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    Troubleshooting is exactly that. You are trying to get a stock (or mostly stock) printer working. At least it should be for problems that would exist on a stock printer. If you are having issues with modifications to the printer... put them in a project thread.
     
  7. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    Got it. Troubleshooting a stock printer goes in troubleshooting. Troubleshooting a modified machine goes in projects.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    Well, actually the entire thread around modifications to your printer should be in projects/mods :)
    That is the point, to have a place to document your modification(s) -- take a look at the other threads here.

    The troubleshooting section under the R1/R1+ main section should just that. Stuff I can troubleshoot on any R1/R1+ and when it involved specific parts you customized then most other folks are not going to be able to assist. Those who frequent the modifications sections perhaps can (people who have made similar mods are a good example).
     
    Sean Carson likes this.
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    We do not mind threads for troubleshooting modifications, go for it. Just keep it out of the more general section if it is specific to your mod, otherwise it is noise for that section and does not help others searching for threads on common issues.
     
    Sean Carson likes this.
  10. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    So back to my question. The z offset does not seem to matter. It floats on the left side and digs in on the right. Here is the topology report.

    Recv: Bed Topography Report:
    Recv:
    Recv: (0,6) (6,6)
    Recv: (1,235) (219,235)
    Recv: [ . ] . . . . . .
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.406 -0.015 0.594 0.897 1.316 1.669 2.233
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.311 0.025 0.361 0.943 1.294 1.612 2.269
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.371 0.099 0.581 0.906 1.391 1.947 2.315
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.249 0.135 0.522 0.963 1.470 1.994 2.398
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.190 0.202 0.542 1.022 1.498 1.947 2.356
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.435 0.165 0.551 1.118 1.576 2.078 2.520
    Recv: (1,1) (219,1)
    Recv: (0,0) (6,0)

    EDIT: Threw into excel to see it more clearly. The right Z rod is off. Weird, auto level should handle that.
     
    #10 Sean Carson, Jul 28, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2017
  11. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    I manually levels the Z axis again and changed my code startup script to include G29 A

    now I get this
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    Depends on which autolevel you mean. The default ABL RoBo provides will not. It is not robust enough to deal with some situations and assumes the bed is largely level already. Not something Robo implemented ... that is all Marlin. Newer versions of Marlin have better options.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
  13. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    I'm using the latest marlin
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    Then review the thread we have on that and see what your choices are. There are several.

    Personally I manually level every printer and then use auto-tramming to help account for glass warp if needed.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
  15. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    It looks like I'm stuck with manually meshing it and using the probe to get a proper Z. -sigh-
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    MESH is at least a one-time job. It is more accurate as well.
     
    jim3Dbot likes this.
  17. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2015
    Messages:
    246
    Likes Received:
    123
    Sean, Just noticed your thread(s)........If I'm understanding properly, running both micros on the Z with the IR may work.....but, you really better know your electronics, series, parallel circuits & the firmware....it can be done....but, not really needed for safety. I applaud your effort. Leave the switches installed, if you want...but, disconnect totally from the Ramps.........then, the IR when triggered will stop the Z, assuming the firmware was logic inverted correctly........Try it again, just for S&Gs.......Mesh is the way to go for an uneven bed, although it would be interesting to see how Daves' IR performs on your Robo.........Hey, sorry I didn't notice sooner & Take Care Sean.
     
    Geof likes this.
  18. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2016
    Messages:
    155
    Likes Received:
    22
    I have to remesh all the time. Hopefully that will change with this new controller card though I really doubt it. I’m switching from ramps and octoprint to a duet.

    It’s very different so it’s a taking a bit while I learn to configure it.
     
    jim3Dbot likes this.
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,544
    Likes Received:
    7,063
    Yes, it is a completely different electronics, but it is a better one once you get it going. Shouldn't be too hard. Good luck.
     

Share This Page