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What’s causing this pattern?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by supercazzola, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I was prototyping something so I chose the Cura profile for Coarse quality (0.4mm). That might have something to do with it (maybe the settings are not as tuned), but still, this pattern is new to me.
    It’s almost like blisters on top surfaces. The bottom of the first layer is almost not melted.
    Same 190-200 hot end temps, good Z-offset. Not sure what could be causing this.

    Tho is same hatchbox black PLA I have used in the past (but new roll).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Appreciate any help or ideas you can give.


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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Is the second picture the bottom of the print?
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    pillowing and what looks like a not so perfect first layer
     
  5. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    yes, sorry for the delay in the response.
     
  6. Shrey

    Shrey Active Member

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    For hatchbox I usually print at 185 and it does fairly well, not sure if that’s the best solution but may be that might work.


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  7. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Unfortunately, I’ve learned not to make a generalized statement like that because each roll of filament behaves slightly different for me, despite being the same manufacturer, material, and color combination. I’ve had one roll of true black hatchback PLA that flowed best at 200, and another 190.

    It’s an odd thing, this 3d printing world. But it is sure nice to take the journey with all of you great folks.

    Thanks





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  8. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    When printing thick layers fast (which might be what that cura profile does, not using it anymore) you might need to increase temps a bit due to the filament passing through the nozzle so quick it doesn't actually have time to heat up to the desired temp before it's out again.
     
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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    With respect to the bottom layer, the voids can be the result of insufficient adhesion or slight warp in the bed or printing too fast or needing a small increase in layer one overlap. It could be a combination of all any combination or all of the above.

    Personally I have never seen a flat (non-warped) build plate. The exception are plates that are milled to be flat, but I don't know of a consumer 3D printer that uses a milled build plate.

    Things that can be done to improve the first layer could be to slightly increase the layer one extrusion multiplier or use MESH or UBL leveling schemes rather than LINEAR which Robo seem reluctant to move away from or slow layer one print speeds or increase the percentage of layer one extrusion overlap.

    tldr; Respecting leveling, Robo uses LINEAR and despite my explaining to them directly how LINEAR works they don't want to change it to a better scheme. Even BILINEAR would be better, although only marginally. LINEAR takes into account all probe points and then creates a flat plane that best fits all the points at once. It is one plane, so some points will be above the plane and some will be below the plane. BILINEAR bisects the leveling plane at every point that is probed so instead of a single plane it is multiple planes like a checkerboard, this fits a warped bed much better. The planes created with LINEAR and BILINEAR are single use only and are not saved, hence the need to re-level for every print. MESH and UBL use the BILINEAR method but also can be saved forever in EEPROM. UBL has the advantage that it can extrapolate any bed warp from the outer probe points to the edges of the build platform.
     
  10. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Yeah, I need to try that. My understanding is Robo will move back to a 9 point linear method (assuming for time, and the perceived lack of advantage for the 16 point one). Has anyone written up how to use the UBL or MESH on the R2?



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  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @supercazzola You can use my newer version of Marlin as it is preconfigured for UBL. One caveat is that you won't be able to use the Z Offset wizard because of poor programming logic in RoboLCD. I posted a bug report on their GITHUB but Robo appears to not want to improve the interface instead wasting time on stripping Marlin code they feel is unnecessary.
     

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