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What is the best way to remove the heating element from the glass?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Robert Foreman, May 5, 2016.

  1. Robert Foreman

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    When you are removing the heating element from the old plate. I used an eyedropper, acetone and started at one corner. put some acetone where you start to peel it off and go slow. It took me about an hour.
     
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  2. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    BTW that 468MP double-sided tape will make things stay put, so be careful when applying it because it does not come back off easily. I found cork sheet at the local Michaels Arts and Crafts that comes in a roll and would be easy to cut to size.
     
  3. Delroy McEwan

    Delroy McEwan New Member

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    what glue did you use to glue the pad to the aluminium thanks
     
  4. Robert Foreman

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  5. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    Robert - Are you still happy with having re-used your stock heater? I just ordered my aluminum plate to replace my glass bed and am trying do decide if it's worth the extra expense and effort to add an SSR/Relay, 24V PS, etc.. and go to a larger heater. I tend to print more with ABS and have always struggled with reduced heat on perimeter of the print area. So I'm wonder if you've found that your setup has sufficiently increased heat transfer throughout the bed.
     
  6. Robert Foreman

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    To answer your question, yes I am very happy so far, but I have not gone above 85c yet because I only print PLA and PLA+ on it. The heat up time does take longer (around 10 to 15 minutes) for the bed to heat up but it is a much more even heat and you could use the entire bed to print on if you could get the bed to move that far. I did put a 10in x 10in x 1/8in piece of glass on top because the prints were starting to stick too good. I did a print last night as a test with no hairspray and no glue with the bed at 60c and the part stuck on clean glass.

    I have not tried any ABS yet but yes as far as over all heat spread across the bed I am very happy with the stock. one word of caution, the bed does get hot enough on the far ends to burn you if you are not careful.

    Hope that helps. I know it was a long answer. :)
     
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  7. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    That's great! Thanks.
     
  8. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Any issues so far with the aluminum? Any scratching?
     
  9. Robert Foreman

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    I did scratch it a few times before I put a a sheet of 10" x 10" x 1\8" glass. It is still the best mod I did. I don't have to worry about the whole bed breaking. The only other issue is after about 10 prints they started sticking too good.
     
  10. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Any specific type of glass you went with? Or just cheap hardware store glass? And did you mount it with binder clips?
    Cheap glass is cheaper to replace than the aluminum (or the stock glass)
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nothing wrong with the cheap glass and binder clips approach.Used that for a long time with a beta before the new bed came out.
     
  12. Robert Foreman

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    This is the glass I got http://www.mcmaster.com/#glass-stock/=135wm9x. But you could use any 10"x10" glass.
    To mount the glass I used this 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink. I find it transfers the heat to the glass better and I don't have to worry about the clips
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     

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