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What is the best way to remove the heating element from the glass?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Robert Foreman, May 5, 2016.

  1. Robert Foreman

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    I am wanting to replace my glass bed with an aluminum plate. I received the plate on Monday. What is the best way to remove the heating element from the glass bed without messing it up?

    Thanks.

    Never Mind. I got it off with acetone and a real slow pace. :)
     
    #1 Robert Foreman, May 5, 2016
    Last edited: May 5, 2016
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You nailed it. Patience and determination are the key.
     
  3. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    What aluminum plate did you get?
     
  4. Robert Foreman

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  5. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    What thickness did you go with?
     
  6. Robert Foreman

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    1\4 inch. I am going to mount it when I get home tonight. I will post pictures when I am done.
     
  7. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Thanks, very interested in this upgrade.
     
  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  9. Robert Foreman

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    I will go with this at a later date. My wallet is telling I can't spend any more money for now. So I am going to have to go with the stock heater till next month. Thanks for the suggestion I just can't afford it at the moment.
     
  10. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    I'm actually chucking it for a 240mm X 350mm 110VAC 360W one from them.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Might need a larger P/S. Try it and see.
     
  12. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Be careful you don't exceed the current carrying capacity of the RAMPS shield. I believe it is limited to about 8A before it melts down. This limits you to about 96W of heater power unless you go to an external switch like a DC/DC SSR, Relay, or Power Expander.

    This is why I went with a DC/AC SSR and 110VAC heater.
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You may find the stock heater might be enough. Aluminum spreads heat much better than glass so it should in theory be more evenly heated and be a smidgen (<< technical term) hotter on the surface with the aluminum bed.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Standard RAMPS has a 11A PTC fuse that runs the D8 output.
     
  15. Robert Foreman

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    I am going to stick with the stock for the time being. I tested it last night before I took it apart by laying the aluminum plate on top of the glass and heating it up. It did pretty good and seem to have an even temp across the whole plate. I think with the heating element directly mounted to it will be fine.
     
  16. Robert Foreman

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    Ok here are some pictures.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Looks good! No cork ?
     
  18. Robert Foreman

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    I need to get more cork. The cork that was on there is a little damaged and is catching on the pullys. Ant suggestion on what type on insulator to get? It did great as far as printing goes. The cork that I pulled off, even though I tried to be careful, just ripped apart in some spots. I could not get it back on with out it sagging.
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I was able to reuse my cork after removing and taped it on with aluminum tape like robo did on my r1+. Your set up looks really nice great job!

    Mine tore quite a bit on the edges.... I just used more tape lol
     
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  20. Robert Foreman

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    Thanks :). I am very happy with it and now I don't have to worry about the glass breaking. I am going to run to Lowes today and get some aluminum tape and try to put the cork back on.
     
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