1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Which Software is the best for ROBO 3D R1 printer

Discussion in 'Software' started by rabu, Sep 5, 2015.

  1. rabu

    rabu New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    1
    I am using my ROBO 3D R1 printer till from last month, but still the quality of my printed object is not satisfactory .I am trying a lot for improving the quality of my print but everyday after finishing my printing I become frustrated . I am using matter control . Is it a cause for the bad (outer surface not smooth,string) print ?????

    again I try to use Cura but my windows firewall is preventing to install that , now what can I do ? please help me ..................
     
  2. NFOsec

    NFOsec New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    7
    One thing to note, unless you're using laser sintering or some other type of coating on a 3D printed part (or a 3D printer costing thousands to tens of thousands) you're not going to get an absolutely perfect "smooth" outer layer. However, tricks such as setting the speed a little slower for the outer layers, as well as making sure the heat and material you use is optimal, you should be able to produce similar results in Matter Control, Cura, Simplify3D, KissSlicer, and many more. I personally have Simplify3D, Cura, Matter Control (PC and tablet), and I find myself primarily going between SImplify3D and Matter Control most oft he time.

    So, primary factors are:

    1) The type of material you use
    2) The temperature you use
    3) The speed you use
    4) The quality of the 3D object / sliced

    What you can do is print a calibration square and then play with the settings for the bottom and top layers as well as infill at various percentages until you get a comfort as to which one provide the closest result you're looking for. You can take a Pulizter prize photograph using a disposable camera, just as well as you can with an expensiove profesional DSLR. It's all about trial and error and understanding what works. I've printed about 1 dozen orange filament calibration squares and marked on them with a sharpie the settings that were used. In the end, I now have about a dozen profiles that I can set up and use.
     
    rabu likes this.
  3. NFOsec

    NFOsec New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    7
    As far as Cura and Windows Firewall goes, open the Windows Firewall under Start, Control Panel, Windows Firewall, and create an Exception to ALLOW Cura. A firewall won't prevent you from installing, but it could prevent you from running it or even downloading it if you don't allow certain connections.

    Could you post a picture of the quality of the part you're having a problem with?
     
  4. rabu

    rabu New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    1
    Many many Thanks to you NFOsec. Your reply is really helpful .For your kind attention I uploaded some picture of my printed object . Please observed the picture and tell me what can I do for a better printing
     

    Attached Files:

  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    Picture number two, the columns are the way they are likely because the extrusion is too hot when the next layer goes on. Sometimes this can be remedied with a parts cooling fan ducted directly toward the part. Sometimes the slicer can be told to slow small parts to allow for cooling, for Cura and MC I don't know where that is located since I don't use them.
     
    mark tomlinson and NFOsec like this.
  6. NFOsec

    NFOsec New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    7
    Rabu:

    I'm going to suggest a few things. One, there are a few sources on the Internet that show pictures of the various type of filament 3D printing errors - one I've used in the past is a Wiki - http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

    For the muscle man --The other is, based on what I'm seeing, I'm thinking that your print speed may in fact be too fast for the level of detail you're covering there, and when you see rings, it usually means the layers are too thick, the extrusion is not hot enough (good guideline is 210c for PLA, but try to start with the manufacturer's recommendations and work from there). Sometimes going too fast gives you overruns. The print may also be cooling faster than it is laid down (thus the reason on the temps).

    The structure seems to be a combination of scenarios, too hot of an extrusion (remember, white/light colors may use lighter temperatures), and the detail you're trying to cover in that area is definitely going too too fast to properly build the posts.

    Hope this helps. Any other Maestros here care to comment?

    Cheers
     
    rabu likes this.
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Exactly. Most slicers have a minimum time per layer. Try making that a bigger number. Each slicer handles that 'number' differently, but it will force it to slow down so that if (for example) you set the min layer time to 1 minute it will force the layer to take at least one minute to print. Repetier host does this by printing the layer then moving off of the print and pausing. Simplify3D just slows the print head way the hell down. Either way, you give the parts of the layer just printed time to cool down and firm up before the head comes by again.
     
    rabu likes this.
  8. rabu

    rabu New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    1
    Thanks to you all , my friends . As per your suggestion I already slow down my print speed but the result is not positive . In our country there is very few people who are using 3d printer that's why I completely depends on this forums , so you friends please help me.

    I upload two photo of my printing object at the stage of first layer please observed the photo and tell me a solution .I just want to know why this odd things are going on ?
    again ,
    I am using ABS and temperature is 240 & 90 I also tried with other temperature and adjusting the Z offset but the result is same .


    please please help me
     

    Attached Files:

  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    @rabu That definitely looks to be over-extrusion. Can you follow this guide:
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    You need to increase your Z offset. You're too low
     
    zenekNY likes this.

Share This Page