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Worth upgrading to an E3D V6?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by theman00011, Jun 29, 2018.

  1. theman00011

    theman00011 Member

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    Recently I was clearing a jam on my R1+ and broke the connection between the heat sink and heat block so I need to replace my hotend. I was looking at upgrading to a E3D V6 but would it be worth it over a replacement Hexagon hotend? I don't plan on doing a ton of flexible materials but I was looking at getting a smaller diameter nozzle for printing smaller objects. Would an E3D with a smaller nozzle be much of an upgrade over the Hexagon with a smaller nozzle just using PLA?
     
  2. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I have a E3D clone in my R1. I had to modify the heatsink since it didn't fit in the same place as the hexagon heatsink. You could get replacement heatbreak tubes for the E3D design instead of having to buy an entire hotend. In fact you could get every part separately for the E3D design such as the heatsink, heatbreak, block, nozzle, thermistor, heating element, fan, and wiring. You could even build your own custom hotend with individual parts. I recommend using the tubing fitting on the top of the heatsink with Capricorn tubing even if you don't print with a lot of flexible filaments. You will have to modify the opening for the tubing to fit, and the bottom near the heatsink to allow the fitting to fit.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I only buy genuine E3D Products. Someone like @Printed Solid (www.printedsolid.com) is a reseller who you know your getting real deal from. It is a much better hotend and the best part is you can buy all the parts so its 100% serviceable vs the hexagon that you just throw away (I do feel swapping nozzles is much easier as well, but thats not a fact, its an opinion lol.
     
  4. theman00011

    theman00011 Member

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    I went ahead and got a V6 with a 0.25 nozzle as well. The V6 ended up being cheaper with free shipping from Printedsolid than a hexagon from Robo with shipping. I'll be following the guide here, I think the hardest part will be the wiring. I'm still not sure if I need to change the firmware if the V6 from Printedsolid comes with the barrel thermistor though.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Robo and E3D use different thermistor types regardless of the casing around it. Yes you will need to change the thermistor type if you want accurate temperature readings.
     
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  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    its a very simple 2 line change. Just make sure you get the correct firmware for your machine. The wiring isn't to bad either depending on what route you decide to go. @WheresWaldo made that into a great write up. Fire away any questions you have.
     
  7. theman00011

    theman00011 Member

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    Just finished putting it all together and cleaning it up. It wasn't too difficult, the cable management was definitely the hardest part. I decided to run all the new cabled to the motherboard instead of splicing into the old ones but it made routing the wires in the loom a pain. If I did it again, I might keep the old wires in place. In the attached pictures, the stock Hexagon is the left side and the E3D is the right, both with 0.4mm nozzles. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, there seems to be only a slight improvement over the Hexagon. The only real problem I see right now that I also had with the Hexagon was a bit of ringing that I still haven't figured out yet. Don't mind the bottom of the E3D one, I somehow printed it with a raft. Hex vs E3D 1.jpg Hex vs E3D 2.jpg Hex vs E3D 3.jpg
     
  8. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Ringing could be:

    • Printing too fast.
    • Slop in the machine (if you are on stock rods and bearings, you have slop). Slowing down your acceleration will help with this, but not cure it.
    • Acceleration set too fast. Stock ROBO firmware had the acceleration rather ambitiously high, need to tone it down.
    • Weight of extruder and carriage. This mass just exacerbates the slop in the machine, and causes ringing in its own right. Slow down the print. Bowden setup is great to reduce this mass.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If by "ambitiously" you mean "stupidly" I wholeheartedly concur ;)
     
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  10. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Just to throw this out there: Took this pic of a closeup of some text inlaid into the models I print. As you can see, zero ringing. Its possible to get this printer finely tuned in if you desire.

    Printing at 3200 mm/min (60% outline speed), 252 degrees (ABS from Maker Geeks), acceleration at 10 for x and y IIRC.

    ETA: Better pic KIMG0136.JPG
     
    #10 Rat_Patrol, Jul 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
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