Solved Your top 3 mods for hardware/software/firmware

I've been reading up on a lot of changes that can be made, but there is a ton of information that is outdated and contradictory. I was hoping that the experienced people here might be able to give some advice on their favorite mods for hardware and software, how they improve the printer (faster, more accurate, etc). as well as links and instructions.

Thanks!

 

If you have the current R1:

• The Reprapdiscount XXL LCD (plug and play LCD display with no firmware update needed)

Order here: http://www.reprapdiscount.com/home/35-smart-lcd-controller-xxl.html#
Print the thing here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681887
And the associated lifting feet here for whichever height swivel foot you print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681876

The reasoning for this first one is that it allows you to truly run prints without having to have your PC connected to the printer.

• The Leadscrew Upgrade

Order here: http://www.robo3d.com/products/lead-screw-upgrade-kit
Once it comes in, follow the directions here: http://guide.robo3d.com/Guide/Lead+Screw+Upgrade/14

The second upgrade improves Z-axis movements a great deal over the original Z-axis setup. Also, new R1 printers after an as-yet-undisclosed date will ship with this already done. You can see if yours has them by looking at whether there are any couplers on the threaded rods at the base or if the rods go straight into the motor.

The final upgrade I'd recommend is the E3D v6 hotend, but only if the stock Hexagon is giving you any trouble. If you're able to print fine with the stock nozzle and there aren't any issues with it leaking around the heatbreak (the bit between the heater and the X-carriage), I'd leave it be.

The E3D v6 is very versatile, and a lot of people like it, but if you haven't done any 3d printing at all the modification can be a little intimidating because there are a few very delicate steps (thermistor mounting) that could very well end up killing the assembly if you do it wrong (if you tighten the thermistor mount too much and hear the crack of the glass in it).

An alternative 3rd upgrade is on the software end: Simplify3D for a high end slicer or Cura or Repetier-Host for a free one. Do not use MatterControl for anything, it is terrible software and causes people more problems than it solves.

 

0. Print and use an oiler for PLA
1. Simplify3d makes life easy
2. Xxl lcd
3. Volcano, makes printing easier without over cooking
4. E3dv6 if your hot end craps out at around 6mo of hard daily use

 

To be honest, there really aren't that many real upgrades to do.

These are all of the upgrades I'm aware of that apply to the R1:

1. LCD controller and associated swivel mount and riser feet.
2. E3D hotend variant (v6 or Volcano)
3. Safety Enclosure
4. Lead Screw Upgrade to the Z-axis
5. Really involved direct drive/bowden/dual hotend/coldend modifications.
6. Maybe adding a PrintinZ Zebra Plate or something like it if you really hate hair spray and glues.
7. Maybe replacing all of the stock cooling fans with quieter fans if they really bother you.
8. The "Beast" Z-print area upgrade that means the Safety Enclosure that is already figured out doesn't apply and you have to come up with a new one.

That's it. It isn't like there are all that many things to do to the printer (though some of them are fairly involved and time consuming to do).

 

The stock printers are pretty good and the upcoming plus is going to be even better. I find these mods to be best:

1) Dual Fan Holder: Lots of designs on thingiverse but this one is really similar to the stock mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:720018
2) Lifter feet: Again several designs but I'm partial to mine http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681876
3) If you print PLA, definitely add an oiler
4) If you print ABS consider an enclosure: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681843 http://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/robo-3d-safety-enclosure-kit
5) If you have bad ribbing it's worth considering the Z axis lead screw upgrade http://www.robo3d.com/products/lead-screw-upgrade-kit
6) White LED's to light up the case. The blue ones look cool but aren't great for seeing detail, especially in a video
7) Camera/Octoprint: Being able to watch prints remotely is very useful.
8) If you don't go octoprint, and LCD controller is useful. The smart graphics one is pretty cool and @Ziggy has added a lot of nice upgrades for it.