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Z-Offset Wizard stuck at step 1 of 4

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by ballhogjoni, Mar 24, 2020.

  1. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    At the printer: Utilities -> Options -> EEPROM -> Home Offset; Is the Z offset a positive number or a negative number?
     
  2. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    For reasons which we never figured out, the older firmware had a bad habit of storing the Z Offset as a positive offset. The physical construction of the C2 & R2 printers requires the Z Offset to be stored as a negative offset
     
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  3. Paul Pangrazzi

    Paul Pangrazzi New Member

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    I'm having the same issue as the OP. I can't seem to run the z offset wizard; it's stuck on step 1 of 4.

    Quick history:
    1. I've just removed the pogo pins and rewired my R2 bed heater after the umpteenth failed print.
    2. When I turned on the printer, I was greeted to an unresponsive LCD panel. (I have been diligent about turning off the printer with the panel, and counting to 10 before turning off the hard switch.) I didn't even open the trapdoor to perform the heater bed mod, but OK gremlins!
    3. I reflashed my SD card with Balena etcher to start at square one and began calibrating everything from scratch using @tkoco FAQ links (thank you!)
    4. On restart, LCD was still unresponsive... but somehow became responsive due to colorful cursing, and I subsequently updated board software (hex file on my PC via Octoprint plugin) and LCD software via printer's onboard WiFi to latest.
    5. I used the M502 and M500 commands to attempt to start at factory settings, which did report a -20 home offset.
    6. Looking at my EEprom plugin in Octoprint, I can successfully save Home offset to any arbitrary minus number, and the LCD on the printer confirms it... but I still cannot run the Z-offset wizard... remains stuck on step 1.
    7. Confused look.
    Finally, I can't seem to get the printer to report actual firmware via octoprint firmware updater... even though I successfully uploaded hex file from my PC, and get a success message, when "Check for Updates" is used I get an "Unable to get printer's data" error message.

    Help?
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would just take a test print (single layer like the attached) size it to fit the bed, slice it an print.
    Adjust the Z offset in the eprom manually (negative numbers) until it is correct. Start with -1.0 and go from there (more negative -> further from bed, less negative -> closer to bed)

    You can manually do what the Z offset wizard is doing for you...
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Paul Pangrazzi

    Paul Pangrazzi New Member

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    Hello @mark tomlinson , and thank you for the speedy reply.

    I'll do as you say and report back... while remaining curious about why the Wizard is suddenly borked, and nothing ever seems to 'just work' with this otherwise pretty looking printer.
     
  6. Paul Pangrazzi

    Paul Pangrazzi New Member

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    I knew I should have knocked on wood. The hot end failed on the test print; plastic is oozing out of the top of the heater block and everything is a goopy, smoking mass right now. Printer is off and I'm done for the time being.

    A new hot end will arrive April 20... will continue on this afterwards.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is an easy fix, the heat break is not sealing against the top of the nozzle inside the heater block -- you can fix that.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Many folks make that mistake when assembling the hotend themselves which is why that is a common problem :) Simply thread the heat break a bit further into the heater block so that when you screw the nozzle in it does NOT go flush up to the heater block. It needs to mate up against the heat break itself... that is what makes the seal.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. Paul Pangrazzi

    Paul Pangrazzi New Member

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    That's good news! I've already removed the assembly from the printer; I'll clean it up later and perform the fix.
     
  11. Paul Pangrazzi

    Paul Pangrazzi New Member

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    The diagram was crystal clear; very helpful.
    Now I'm trying to print your example .stl and I can't get the hotend to heat up past 150C. *Long look at the horizon*

    Attaching the heat curves of two separate tries...
    This is starting to feel like a hijacked thread, and I'm sorry for that in advance... I'm really trying to simply set my z-offset! :)

    upload_2020-3-30_17-36-36.png
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    well, check the Gcode terminal for any errors. Something is driving it back down and an error from Marlin would be my first guess.
     
  13. wuidling

    wuidling New Member

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    1. RoboOS 2.0.0-r2.6
    2. Official Firmware: Marlin.R2.1.1.7.hex

    Only this combination works on the R2 !
    Otherwise the Z-Offset failed and you have serveral other problems !
    The Extruder crashes into the Bed or the Touchscreen freezes.

    Do not upgrade your Eprom !

    Regards

    (Please excuse my School English)
     
    #33 wuidling, Mar 31, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2020
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  14. wuidling

    wuidling New Member

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    The Offset should be between -7,3-7,5 mm.
     
    #34 wuidling, Mar 31, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2020
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The offset will be specific to every printer. It really is there to account for differences in the fine alignment of the gantry and other components. The tolerances for building the printer are not fine enough for the offset to be the same for everyone.
     
  16. wuidling

    wuidling New Member

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    That's right, but we are in the R2 Forum so i think the tolerance should be in a few millimeters.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You would be surprised then :)

    I have seen them be a fairly broad range of numbers...
     
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  18. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Some of us have replaced the default nozzle with a hardened nozzle which has a different geometry, thus a different Z Offset.
     
  19. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Any type of firmware other than an official Robo version can have negative side effects. For example, Marlin.R2.1.1.7.hex will break the wizards.
     
  20. wuidling

    wuidling New Member

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    Thanks for the support,

    Is this the right way to get the original firmware:

    First off, do a reset of the firmware parameters. Using the terminal mode within OctoPrint or Cura, send a gcode of M502 (waiting a few seconds until the box cleared) and then a gcode of M500 (again waiting until the box cleared). This will reset the firmware in the R2 Printer to factory default values.

    or is another firmware working properly ?

    Regards
     

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