1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Solved First Failed print...ABS Warping

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Vibroman, Jan 30, 2016.

Page 1 of 2
  1. Vibroman

    Vibroman New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    2
    So trying to Print ABS on this printer for first time and got some major warping. started about layer 40 or so of 175. Using default ABS settings in MC. Med Quality. 235 extruder and 80 bed. Using Elmers on the Bed
    Trying to troubleshoot Switched Fan Controls OFF and reprinted. Also Increased bed temp to 90 after layer 40 and the results were excellent.
    I'm sure everyone else knew this but heads up for newbies
    VM
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Vibroman, Jan 30, 2016
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    Welcome to the world of extruding ABS. Must your part be in ABS? Is there something about the properties of ABS that require you to print with it? ABS is all about temperature control of the entire printer environment and is one of the most difficult materials to print without the requisite returns. There are so many other filaments that meet or exceed ABS properties in some way or another and are easier to print.

    Save the ABS for when you get to a point where you can control every aspect, not just print temps but ambient air temperature as well as air circulation in the environment, or build yourself and enclosure to encase the printer so you can actually heat the area where the printer is located.
     
    #2 WheresWaldo, Jan 30, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  3. Vibroman

    Vibroman New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    2
    Thanks WW. Part does not have to be ABS but waiting on Black PLA delivery tomorrow so thought I would try ABS.
    Gotcha on controlling the environment.
     
    #3 Vibroman, Jan 30, 2016
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    I am a fan of PETG as well as some nylon filaments, PETG is easier to print than ABS and not as brittle as PLA. If you have Amazon Prime you can get it cheap with 2-day shipping, my current favorite is eSUN sold by INTSERVO in the US.
     
    #4 WheresWaldo, Jan 30, 2016
  5. Vibroman

    Vibroman New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    2
    How clear is the Natural?
    Got a 1 kg spool in the shopping basket right now
     
    #5 Vibroman, Jan 30, 2016
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    It will come out white, sort of, depending on the layer height and how many perimeters. Big layers and low numbers of perimeters and solid layers will keep it clearer, also while I print with the parts fan on, the fan off actually provides for a clearer print. But these things are generally true of all natural colored filaments. Without proper ingredient mixes most natural colored filaments aren't truly clear.
     
    #6 WheresWaldo, Jan 30, 2016
  7. Vibroman

    Vibroman New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2016
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    2
    You got me convinced spool coming !!!
     
    #7 Vibroman, Jan 30, 2016
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    PETG is an excellent choice/alternative for ABS in most cases. I like BluPrint as well (that one is a Taulman product) if transition temperature for the material is a reason you need to consider.

    When you start comparing filaments you really need to know what you are looking for :) as in specifically what you expect the filament to do. Here is another overview/comparison:

    http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/3d-printer-filament-types-overview/
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Jan 30, 2016
    Vibroman likes this.
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Almost nothing else is as hard to print properly as ABS (well, maybe polycarbonate... maybe)
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Jan 30, 2016
    Vibroman and WheresWaldo like this.
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    They really need to increase the ABS bed temp from 80C, that's way too cold.

    Their default options are really not good at all and haven't been tweaked since... ever
     
    #10 Mike Kelly, Feb 1, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  11. ChiefBurningRubber

    ChiefBurningRubber New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2016
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi guys I'm also trying to print ABS and have read several articles. I don't know why I'm so dead-set on trying to get it to work but I'm having the same curling problems as well. It just seems I can't get it to print and it's frustrating. I'm using extruder235, bed80, speeds 50 and infill 60. Fan is disabled. I would post a pic if I could but I haven't made 3 posts yet.

    The part I'm trying to print is large and fills the entire bed area of the Robo3dR1+ but I suspect the heated pad underneath doesn't cover the entire print surface.

    Like I said, I've read a lot of articles, but still struggling.

    Any advice is appreciated.
     
    #11 ChiefBurningRubber, Mar 13, 2016
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The heated pad does not come close to covering the entire bed area.
    8x8 or 9x9 (can't remember which) is about it.

    Large ABS prints are really difficult without a heated chamber, but directed heat (like an IR lamp aimed at the print) can help.
    Get rid of all air drafts around the printer as well.
     
    #12 mark tomlinson, Mar 13, 2016
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    and you need to get the bed up over 100 for best results.
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Mar 13, 2016
  14. ChiefBurningRubber

    ChiefBurningRubber New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2016
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Good advice and thanks. I thought about an infrared light so I'm going to try that one for sure. I took care of drafts but didn't want to do the heated chamber as I'm not sure how well the rest of the electronics handle it.

    Bed temp too...good advice.

    Does anyone know if there are larger heated pads out there that cover the entire print bed area?
     
    #14 ChiefBurningRubber, Mar 13, 2016
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    I just did this upgrade, I will try to post pictures a bit later today. You can get bigger heaters but you have to be careful with power draw through the RAMPS board. You are limited to 11A maximum draw so you heater shouldn't be more than 132W without additional circuitry.
     
    #15 WheresWaldo, Mar 14, 2016
    ChiefBurningRubber likes this.
  16. David Avila

    David Avila Member

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2016
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    5
    you just helped me thanks
     
    #16 David Avila, Mar 16, 2016
  17. sebrobin

    sebrobin Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    6
    I'm also struggling.
    I have a first version of the R1, ABS white (From Robo3D), temps is 230 and 75 (can't go above or I have an error message). I have put a bed sheet on the printer to act like a closed chamber. The temperature in the room is around 23. I put spray glue on the bed but it warp a lot.
    Any advice ? Should I upgrade the firmware to go above the temperature (230 & 75) ? Is it the bed that is too cold or the extruder ?
    The fan is always off but shouldn't it be on to fasten the cooling of the ABS ?
    I understand ABS is the toughest thing to print but I have at least 5 reels of ABS and I don't want to throw them away.

    Is there other material that gloss in Acetone as the ABS does ?

    Thanks for your help.
     
    #17 sebrobin, May 3, 2016
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    #18 mark tomlinson, May 3, 2016
  19. sebrobin

    sebrobin Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    6
    ok Thank you.
    Can you please reconfirm the max temp of the bed and the extruder ?
     
    #19 sebrobin, May 3, 2016
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,914
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Not without knowing exactly which model you have.
    (sorry)

    the extruder is safe to over 300c if you have the hexagon or e3d, the j-head has 235 max.
    The bed can technically do 115c but not if you have the wiring/connectors that was in the earlier R1 units. The beta and R1+ are fine.
     
    #20 mark tomlinson, May 3, 2016
Page 1 of 2

Share This Page