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Community Favorite E3D v6 Information and Installation Guide

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, it will work fine. All you are drilling is slightly enlarging the hole that the filament feeds through and the PTFE tube will work with the quick-release just fine.
     
  2. Charlie S

    Charlie S New Member

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    Thanks Mark. I messed(cleared jams and assembled wrong and got goop) with the original hot end so much that I finally broke the tiny thermistor wire. But my E3d comes in a day or 2.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sorry to hear that. The E3D is better and spare parts (all of the parts) are pretty widely available too.
     
  4. Charlie S

    Charlie S New Member

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    Sorry. Another question. I can’t print a quick release part. Can I mod the original quick release to make it work?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Possibly. The E3D collar is larger than the Hexagon so if you use the original plate it will be loose and able to move around. You *might* be able to use some wraps of teflon tape (or some sort of tape) around the collar on the E3D enough to make it a tighter fit ... and if so it might work long enough to print the new quick release lever. Then remove the tape

    That is why the thread suggests printing it before you start the modification :) But sometimes things break and then you want to upgrade...
     
  6. Charlie S

    Charlie S New Member

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    Here’s a relatively easy mod to get it up and running. I think these parts are for 2x4’s. The large hole is pretty close to the 12 mm needed for the E3D. The metal plate goes on top of the existing Robo R1+ quick release. I used aviation metal snipers and appropriate drills and files. Bad luck with thermistors... broke the lead by the connector. The printed solid wire seemed like t-10 inches too short and my cable dressing was a bit of a mess.

    luckily I had a parts fan clip duct already printed. So I should be in business when I rewire the thermistor. That heater wire is stiff. I can’t remember how Robo cable tied to holes in the carriage. Below the hobbed bolt?

    I can post higher res photos, I was trying to be respectful of storage.



    C3BC3453-8A88-495A-A0A9-9A33CA182091.jpeg 4D4AA913-4681-4726-83A2-83BD5FAF1B51.jpeg
     
    #66 Charlie S, Apr 28, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2020
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  7. colinpoo42

    colinpoo42 New Member

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    How do i edit firmware[/QUOTE]
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  9. Eric S

    Eric S New Member

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    Hey, anyone have a link to purchase the 30mm heatsync fan? The one I got for the upgrade has the wrong connector on it. It it too small. This one is a .06A fan vs the 1A on the 25mm possibly? Regardless, it wont connect and I need to find another one.

    Thanks.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    the fan for the extruder or the parts cooling fan?
    30mm would be about the size of the hexagon fan -- not sure where to find one with that exact connector.
    You can't buy parts for the Hexagon (well, I have never been able to locate a source)

    Either swap in your own connector or just direct wire it.
     
  11. Eric S

    Eric S New Member

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    The parts cooling fan. The one that you swap in for the 25mm hex fan. All the 30mm fans I find have the small connector. Do you know the model of connector that both the parts fan and extruder fan use? They appear to have the same size connector, but can find that part number. Worse case, partsbuilt3d appears to have one with terminations on it I can run back to the board. Just trying to re-use the existing runs if possible.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Most are JST connector: PH2.0-2Pin

    To be clear -- I have no idea what Robo put on theirs :)
    That is the standard for most smaller fans used on printers.
     
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  13. Charlie S

    Charlie S New Member

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    My E3D heatsink fan came with a long wire with a .1” spacing kk header connector that hooks into the Arduino. I snaked the wire with others and ditched the JST wiring.
     
  14. Eric S

    Eric S New Member

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    I ended up using some small lever nut connectors and got it all packaged together reasonably.

    One last question about updating the firmware, and Matter control 2.0. I followed the instructions and updated the max temp sensor type. Saved it with a new name, ROBOR1PLUSV2-1, and then compiled it and uploaded it to the board. It went through fine, but when I then boot up MatterControl and look at the Firmware Version, it still says ROBOR1PLUSV2. Is there anyplace that I can confirm the updated firmware is indeed running on the printer now?
     

    Attached Files:

  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is a file in Marlin source called "version.h" and it has the strings that are used to display the firmware version.
    Some other strings used by the LCD for "banners/names" can be found in the Configuration.h, but the main one is version.h
     
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  16. Eric S

    Eric S New Member

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    Found it. That did it. :)

    Thanks, much appreciated.
     
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  17. joea

    joea Active Member

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    In the write up, in the area talking about enlarging the hole for the PTFE tubing, it mentions "pneumatic" fitting. What "pneumatics" do I not know about on this printer?

    "At a minimum trim the PTFE at the top of the pneumatic fitting. I don't advise this as it can be difficult to insert filament and negates the real benefits offered by the v6, such as flexible materials.

    Instead I suggest you modify the Greg's Wade Extruder base piece . . ."

    Also, it appears I must "counter sink" the bottom of the hole,perhaps "a lot" to allow space for the PTFE tubing collet and locking clip (assembly), so the heat sink/hot end can seat properly.

    Am I off base there?
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I removed the collet from the E3D it really is not needed once the E3D is mounted in the extruder.
    Enlarging the hole to allow the PTFE tube is needed, but just take a 4mm bit and run it through (the PTFE tube should be 2mm ID and 4mm OD).

    Of course if this is an R1+ then you need to print the E3D version of the quick release plate from thingiverse before you start down this road.
     
  19. joea

    joea Active Member

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    Don't have the quick release. I was thinking the collet and lock would keep the tube from moving at all on retracts.

    So the "pneumatic" reference is meaningless in my case? What is it a reference to?
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The tube should not move either direction in any case. If you are concerned about it then adapt the mounting to accommodate the collet, but it is really only needed in the case of a longer bowden style feed. They are technically a pneumatic push-style fitting:

    https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=pneumatic+push-fit+couplings&ref=nb_sb_noss

    even though no pneumas will be used in the case of the E3D ;)

    I have (in the past -- I GOT BETTER!) worked with pneumatic systems and those push-lock fittings are quite common.

    edit: low-pressure pneumatics obviously
     
    #80 mark tomlinson, Jan 9, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2021

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