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Community Favorite E3D v6 Information and Installation Guide

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If this is the canister style thermistor, I really doubt you damaged it. It could have come in bad. Sanity check all your connections to it just the make sure.

    That is fine for the heater core connections.
     
  2. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    [​IMG]

    All connections seems to be tight and corrrect. Still zero reading. Must be a lemon
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not familiar with the RAMPS you are using (I use the standard RAMPS 1.4 on all of mine). Is that the thermistor connection or the FAN 0? On mine the thermistor doesn't land on that type of connector :) It lands on T0 or T1 (depending on if it is the hotend or the bed)

    Ramps1_4.png

    This is the Robo supplied RAMPS IIRC:

    Robo3D R1 +Plus Ramps Board (labeled).jpg

    That is the Print cooling fan, not the thermistor...looks like your extruder thermistor is in a similar spot (T0 -- middle of the board)
     
    #43 mark tomlinson, May 26, 2018
    Last edited: May 26, 2018
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Maybe you just landed some of them incorrectly?
     
  5. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    Yes thank you it was wired wrong. Now bed ave extruder warm up. Started test print and the extruder motor is erratic. Either i plug it in backwards on the ramps or I crimped a wire at the top. Signing off tonight thanks for your help. I'm focusing on that later
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck.
    If you plug the connector the stepper in backwards it will run backwards.
    It could be that you need to either swap the stepper driver card for a new one or adjust the current output on it to be higher*.




    I am lazy and they are cheap so I usually just swap the stepper driver.
     
  7. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Wanted to give a warning about the 40mm fan upgrade:

    I did a Titan extruder and V6 upgrade. I don't even have part cooling fans on the extruder carriage as I print in ABS only.

    After getting the new upgrades all setup and done, I started printing my normal parts, which are small and many of the same thing. I noticed that I was having bed adhesive issues. I hadn't changed anything with the bed, but always had the bed adhesion issues in the same spot. I cleaned the bed with some good chems to get it down to pure, bare glass. New glue stick (always has worked very well), new filament roll, perfectly dialed in for first layer height and other parameters, nothing. STILL warped off the bed in the same places.

    So I grabbed a spare bed (has a couple chips out of it from experimenting with PETG), cleaned it very well, put it on and the same thing: comes up off the bed at the same place.

    I grabbed the non-contact thermometer and the heating was even.

    So i coated the bed with Wolfbite, which I bought a while ago but never used. Worked EXCELLENTLY, except in that SAME TROUBLE AREA.

    Then I re-sliced my parts and orientated them different on the plate, avoiding the trouble area. Interestingly, the parts in the same area relative to the other parts being printed was warping right up again.

    Frustratingly, I started seeing it as a cooling issue. I upped the bed temp, put the cover back on (my office is warm, so it typically isn't needed in summer), no dice. Then I noticed that the 40mm fan I put on the V6 can't put all the air through the shroud, and some kicks back out the intake side. Yes, the fan is orientated properly, polarity properly. It puts out PLENTY of air through the heat sink, but the fan is capable of too much.

    I took that 40mm fan off and put on the stock 30mm fan the V6 came with. Issue solved.

    So the excess air being kicked back out the fan was acting like a parts cooler on my ABS parts in that particular zone relative to the bulk of parts being printed.

    This should be a non-issue with PLA, but for ABS, the 40mm fan doesn't work.
     
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  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    It is generally accepted that you do not cool ABS prints with a parts fan, you can in most cases without any issue but that is not the norm. I understand why you were having issues. Also if you intend to cool parts that normally don't require cooling don't use the fan at 100%, that is why you have choices in your slicer. It doesn't always have to be 0% or 100%. An upgrade to two 40 mm fans or a 40 mm on the hotend heatsink are worthwhile upgrades, you just have to be careful how you use them.
     
  9. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Not sure you understand. I don't have parts cooling fan(s) on my printer, never need them. I did run the wire for a parts fan in the wire chain, but it doesn't go to anything. A parts fan would just be excess weight to move for me. The 40mm fan upgrade for the v6 hot end was either just plain to big or the shroud needs some re design. Or the 40mm fan I bought is higher output than normal. Whatever it was, it was unable to push all the air it grabbed through the shroud/cold end, and was spitting it back out the "front" of the fan and cooling my abs parts. This phenomenon did not happen with the 30mm oem fam. Like I said, probably would not matter with pla, but abs would not tolerate the air flow io the parts.

    I'm very much aware of adjusting the slicer settings .
     
  10. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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    Are there M commands that will let me make these edits using the terminal in Octoprint?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, at best you could change some of the values temporarily in a GCode terminal but you really want to make them permanent.
     
  12. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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    I had assumed that I could save the values using the M500 command.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which is not permanent :) It is stored in a flash eprom (EEPROM) and I have seen occasions where this gets scrambled or wiped. It will survive power going off and on, but it can get corrupted and require a reset.

    Granted that is not something that happens often but it is not as permanent as simply updating the firmware. That is more permanent.
     
  14. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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    Good to know.
    Thanks.
     
  15. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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  16. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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    OK, I'm confused...
    Marking the filament at 150mm, I had 65mm remaining once I sent the G1E100F90 command.
    Subtracting 65 from 150 gives me 85
    (723.38 * 100) / 85 gives me 851.04
    I replaced the value of 723.38 with 851.04, saved and uploaded the firmware.
    I still get 65mm left when I send the G1E100F90 command.
    What am I missing?
     

    Attached Files:

  17. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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    BTW, the image I attached was taken before the changes (just in case somebody suspects that I forgot to save the changes).
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Did you clear the EEPROM?

    M500 - store current settings in EEPROM for the next startup or M501.
    M501 - read all parameters from EEPROM, or undo changes.
    M502 - Reset current settings to defaults, as set in Configurations.h - follow with M500 to reset the EEPROM.
    M503 - Print the current settings – ‘‘Not the settings stored in EEPROM.’’

    So after changing the firmware you need to do an M502 and then an M500
     
  19. jccbsl

    jccbsl New Member

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    Thanks, Mark!
    I had just finished inputting them after reading through several of your previous posts.
    That's exactly what the problem was.
     
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  20. Charlie S

    Charlie S New Member

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    Once you drill the carriage, can the old R1+ extruder be used on the modified carriage with old quick release?
     

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