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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jan 31, 2017.
Is there any guides for the r1 plus or are they similar enough
Essentially the same for the R1+
Dropping the old hotend is easier on the R1+ because it has the quick-release plate.
I feel like a complete idiot, but how do I access the config.h file? I'm connected to my R1 plus, have the Arduino software loaded, but not sure how to tap into the Arduino on the printer to mod the code. Although I'm connected through Matter Control the Robo doesn't show up as a drive or anything under "My Computer" so I'm lost
You have to download the source code first. There is no getting it from the arduino
See the FAQ link: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/faq-r1-r1-series-printers.19735/#post-119335
OK, forgive me if this sounds ignorant:
Why can't I take the stock electrical connection clips from the old parts, and solder them onto the new parts and then just plug the new parts into the same place? This would require no messing about with the board or running wires.
You can if you are so inclined.
The default E3D heater core uses less current so not a problem.
Upgraded my hotend to the E3D v6. Still tweaking the settings in Simplify3D but its working well so far. Just an FYI, they are shipping with a blue connector(see below pic) on the pneumatic fitting. On the step where you need to drill out a hole for the pneumatic fitting, I had to use a bigger drill bit. I used a 23/64 drill bit but it was a tight fit. I'm guessing a 3/8 bit would be perfect. You could probably just go without the blue connector but they supplied it for a reason so I kept it in. I also had to flip the fan shroud since it would not allow the hotend to sit flush.
EDIT: I also jut now realized they send me the wrong one, LOL. They sent me the Gold one.
That is the top of the line version which cost $105 to $110. I wanted to get one but didn't want to spend that much money so I bought a cheaper version on Amazon. I had to drill two hole sizes just like the previous photos, but encountered an issue with the size of the heat sink. The heat sink didn't fit in the same area where the hexagon heat sink fit. It was too wide, and a little longer. I didn't want to grind away material from the Robo, so I filed a little metal off of the sides of the heat sink, and kept the stock fan instead of using the clip on fan. The extended length was fine, and didn't create any issues.
By the way, the photo shows one version of light blue Capricorn tubing. The higher temperature Capricorn tubing is a darker blue color. I put the darker tubing in mine. I kept having issues with the cheap white PTFE tubing from EBay that cost a couple of dollars. That cheap stuff worked for a couple of prints then it would cause the filament to bind intermittently. So far I've never had any issues with the Capricorn tubing. I guess that's the reason why E3D has it on their high end version.
Need quick confitmation on something.
When I buy this E3DV6 the only extra part I would need to install this on a R1 plus is the quick release I can download on Thingaverse?
No extra parts such as fan stroud etc needed?
You need to replace the fan mount since the stock hexagon is a different length. You need to have the parts fan aiming at the parts, not the nozzle. E3D V6 fan bracket and shroud (if you want the shroud) are on thingiverse.
I was able to add a similar one on mine with a slight modification to the heatsink. I filed 2 sides of the heatsink, and used the existing small fan on the printer instead of using the larger snap on fan. I had to enlarge the hole for the teflon tubing to fit through the top of the housing, and make a slight dimple for the teflon connector on the top of the heatsink to fit.
I now have this extruder on hand. I appreciate all of the videos people have made but I noticing I can't find a video
I have this now wired up. Is it ok to test b4 the firmware change? the videos on this thread and throughtout youtube focus on installation and not wiring and firmware update. No videos though of install on the new quick release R1 you have to wing that. do you have to change parameters in any way since its a smaller extruder?
Do you have to? For the extruder itself, no, but ..if you swapped the thermistor then you do need to change that in the firmwareor your temperatures will read inaccurately. If you want to just fire it up and see that it works, go for it. I would make the firmware edits before doing any printing however
(IIRC the stock thermistor is a type 1 and the E3D is a type 5)
Extruder turned off mintemp triggered
Does polarity on these blue wires to the heat sink matter?
No, that sounds like the heater core -- just a resistor really.
That mintemp is an error I'm getting. Should i check connections?
Absolutely. That means you have an open circuit to the thermistor. The thermistor is NTC -- negative temp coefficient -- so low resistance is high temp and vice-versa.
This is how I ann installing the heat sink. Any other way would be bettet?
I tried my best to not damage the thermistor tightening very lightly. I did tighten the heat sink very tightly. Possibly Did i damage either Or could they arrive already defective?