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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    HF for the win.
     
    #321 mark tomlinson, Sep 2, 2015
  2. Maciej Wilamowski

    Maciej Wilamowski New Member

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    I change extruder for E3D V6 with bowden in Robo3D R1
    firmware
    R1 with Auto Level and 8mm

    and my print look like this attachment
    [​IMG]
    This is print with oryginal robo extruder
    [​IMG]
    Please help...
     
    #322 Maciej Wilamowski, Sep 5, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2015
  3. Ozzie Alarcon

    Ozzie Alarcon Member

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    My only guess would be maybe you didn't update the firmware to read the V6's thermistor properly.

    If so, this is why people like myself use the stud thermistor from printedsolid.com so you don't have to screw around with modifying any firmware settings.
     
    #323 Ozzie Alarcon, Sep 5, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2015
  4. Maciej Wilamowski

    Maciej Wilamowski New Member

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    [​IMG] I have 100K Semitec NTC thermistor, in firmware i change termistor model
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
    the next great print from Robo with e3D v6
    [​IMG]
     
    #324 Maciej Wilamowski, Sep 5, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
  5. Ozzie Alarcon

    Ozzie Alarcon Member

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    Something is definitely off because I just did my E3D V6 conversion and my printer is working fine. Like I said, only different on mine is the stud thermistor from printedsolid.com

    - I'm sure someone in this forum will have a fix for ya.
     
    #325 Ozzie Alarcon, Sep 6, 2015
  6. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Something is moving a lot between layers that isn't supposed to. Your infill is crossing perimeters, you have gaps between top solid infill layers, and your infill lines don't sit over each other correctly.
    I'd normally suggest that it's an issue with the belts not being tight or a set screw loose on a pulley, but given that you just changed the hot end, maybe something isn't tightened properly there or a new wire routing is interfering with motion? Those are the sorts of things to check. Your extrusion looks more or less OK, but maybe a bit on the heavy side. Hard to say because you have the other issue that might be making it look off.
     
    #326 Printed Solid, Sep 6, 2015
  7. Maciej Wilamowski

    Maciej Wilamowski New Member

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    Thx, i make only two things. 1. Change extruder for E3D v6 with bowden and 2. Upload firmware with corect sensor type ant temperature. Maybe problem it's with Arduino and firmware, but when i upload all it's ok. The first and second layer its ok, the next its not ok, and problem its biger & biger...
     
    #327 Maciej Wilamowski, Sep 6, 2015
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure the firmware Z steps/mm is correct for whatever your configuration is.
    (5/16 rods, 8mm rods, upgraded z rods, etc.)
     
    #328 mark tomlinson, Sep 6, 2015
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  9. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    Well, I just read the entire thread before my E3DV6 arrives, my only regret is not ordering the Bowden version for the extra PTFE, the small amount of tube provided looks enough for just one instalment and it seems the tube might need a replacement if heat ever creeps up (non-US issue, where finding stuff is hard)
     
    #329 Kaan, Sep 6, 2015
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I thought someone might have said 'always order Bowden' in the one thread... but, there are a lot of threads.
     
    #330 mark tomlinson, Sep 7, 2015
  11. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    The hotend arrived with the blue heater as told in this thread, I'm thinking of going the lazy route and installing the existing heater, maybe even the thermistor if it fits, haven't made up my mind yet

    I noticed that I made my buying decision before any research, if anyone reads this, it's a good idea to buy another heatbreak bore, the one that connects the hotend and cooler, as it's the part that breaks during amateur nozzle replacement

    I've watched some E3D nozzle replacement videos, it seems that bore gets stressed one way or another, the trick seems to be the minimize the stress, but still, the risk seems to be always there

    It also seems like a good idea to try and find a #16 wrench for the hotend block, just in case
     
    #331 Kaan, Sep 7, 2015
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Neither of those is what I would call a bad decision. With the exception of the metal stud version all thermistors are pretty similar and the heater cores are largely interchangeable--if it were me I'd just make sure I kept the one with higher wattage if there were any difference see chart:.


    40w (Red Leads)
    25w (Blue Leads)
     
    #332 mark tomlinson, Sep 7, 2015
  13. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    By the way, the blue one sent from E3D is marked as 30W

    The Hexagon Thermistor is too big for the small slot of the E3D, so I used the JST connector of the old thermistor and installed the new one, however I used the existing Hexagon heater

    Turns out I only had ~3mm drill bits, so I used them to enlarge the hole slowly, I don't think it can be done by hand tho

    Overall, the bottleneck seems to be the PTFE tube, it moves easily, I'm a bit disturbed, but it's just a worry, no practical issues, I won't be replacing filaments too much anymore tho

    Without any issues, I started getting the best ABS prints I've seen, started printing spare parts for my printer, so far, I'm extremely satisfied (I didn't even do a PID tuning yet, there doesn't seem to be an imminent need)

    Anyway, it was a fun and learning experience
     
    #333 Kaan, Sep 7, 2015
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  14. c. West

    c. West Member

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    So installed the e3d direct onto my R1 Plus and come to find out that the hot end clamp collar is taller than the hexagons. Cant get the e3d to be snug up tight to the extruder now. It has some play and can twist the hotend freely and it will move slightly when the auto level touches the glass it will no doubt affect my prints. Any thoughts?

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
    [​IMG]
     
    #334 c. West, Sep 29, 2015
  15. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    Doesn't sound right, it should be able to attach snugly

    However, I was never able to attach it in a perfectly aligned manner, mine always stays angled, however that angling luckily doesn't affect the prints

    You might have a worn screw guide on your hotend, I would suggest turning the hotend a bit and inserting the screws to a bare side

    However wait until someone with more experience replies
     
    #335 Kaan, Sep 30, 2015
  16. c. West

    c. West Member

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    I think the Plus has a different mounting situation than the earlier models. To mount the hot end, there is an aluminum plate with a cutout that holds the hot end up to the extruder. It is like a quick release system that hooks around the collar that I showed above. I'll try to find a oicture

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
    [​IMG]
     
    #336 c. West, Sep 30, 2015
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are correct. The small difference in the shank on the top part of the hotend must be enough to make it loose.
    You could fabricate something to make it fit tighter...a ring to snap around there for example.

    This is a recent (R1+) change and will affect use of some universal hotends.
     
    #337 mark tomlinson, Sep 30, 2015
  18. c. West

    c. West Member

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    OK just checking my sanity. Shouldn't be too hard to do but had never found it mentioned before so I was thinking something was off. Thank you for the help

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
    #338 c. West, Sep 30, 2015
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, you are just one of the first R1+ folks to try this swap :)
    Good luck and if/when you do come up with a solution, please post the details.
     
    #339 mark tomlinson, Sep 30, 2015
  20. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I'm actually sort of surprised it doesn't fit properly The groove diameter should be the same.

    Out of curiosity did you install it with the collet for gripping the ptfe tube? and do the drilling like i suggest in the OP?
     
    #340 Mike Kelly, Sep 30, 2015
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