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Solved E3D V6 keeps jamming.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by nierro, Apr 4, 2015.

  1. nierro

    nierro Member

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    I got the V6 about 2 weeks ago, and I can't figure out why it keeps on jamming.
    Filament type: PLA/NinjaFlex (semiflex)
    Extruding Temp: PLA: 200/ Semiflex: 260 for the 1st layer and 2nd layer is 250
    Bed Temp: PLA 80 for the 1st layer. 30 for the 2nd layer. SemiFlex: none
    Bed makeup: PLA: both painter's tape and none. SemiFlex: none

    I was printing with the Ninjaflex and I kept trying to print a phone case for my wife. and it kept getting jammed. I figured it was either the model or Ninjaflex didn't do too well on V6. So I gave up and tried doing PLA. It also jammed too. So I tried to take it apart and see where it was getting jammed at.

    I tried tugging at the PLA, and it broke off.
    [​IMG]

    I took the nozzle off and saw that it wasn't getting pushed trough it.
    [​IMG]

    I thought that maybe the PTFE melted and bonded or something but nope... PTFE tube pulled out with no problem.
    [​IMG]

    So it turns out that it was stuck on the heatbrake. Pretty well too. I tried pulling it and it just broke off a piece.
    [​IMG]

    I had the heat it up in order to take the PLA off.
    Before putting the V6 in, I made sure that the PTFE tube was inserted all the way in the heat brake. Any idea why this keeps happening?
    I am guessing it's the same spot.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Needs an oiler would be my guess.
     
  3. nierro

    nierro Member

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    I did have oiler on it. :( canola oil. I guess I forgot to say that on the OP.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Once I seasoned the hotend and added the oiler I have had zero problems with the E3D.
    In all fairness though I suspect something else is going on with yours since the jams normally occur in the nozzle... not the heat break.
    Make sure your heat break is correctly installed and hot tightened. If it works its way loose from the heater block when hot it would absolutely jam.

    It does not need to be Gorilla Tightened (tm) but it does need to be snugged up again at temp (I'd suggest 280 or so at least).

    :)
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Oh, and having installed about three of these now, it is easy (depending on how the wires run) for the heat break to come loose from the heat block if it is not hot tightened. There is normally a bit of tension/stress on it from the heater core wiring and with the movement of the carriage it can come loose.
     
  6. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    I had some similar issues with my V6 when I first got it. I ended up turning the temperature up by increments of 5 degrees, this might start causing stringing on your prints, but the jams will stop.

    If it was printing fine before and is now just starting to jam, you might have a partial nozzle clog, you can clean it out with acetone, or just buy a brand new nozzle if you'd rather do that.

    When I get jams I move either up to my 0.8mm nozzle or down to my 0.25mm nozzle while my 0.4mm is taking an acetone bath.
     
  7. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Hey Novice expert,

    So, I should go higher than 200 for PLA? I guess I can give it a go. But yeah, It's not like it's getting clogged on the nozzle, so I guess I'll just have to try that.
    Great videos btw. great insight to ROBO R1, I learned lot from your videos.

    I did raise my temp to 280 and tighten it, but I guess I'll have to tighten it some more. I've tighten it once where it just broke the heatbreak. and for the life of me, I couldn't get it out. so I actually just went and bought 2 more, just in case it broke on me again. Actually learn from Marquis Johnson that it brakes off easy. hence I didn't tighten it hard enough I guess.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, it needs to be tight, but not over torqued. I wish I had a tiny torque wrench to give you a number :)
    There are two things to tighten:

    1) the heatbreak into the cold section of the hotend
    2) the heatbreak into the heater block

    You can try to do both at the same time, but I would advise at least make sure #1 is well snugged in before #2 if you do that.
     
  9. bcamaro1

    bcamaro1 Member

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    I was having the same issue but with PLA, ABS and PET. what I did to fix the problem was an oiler a new nozzle ( after a while some plastics will crystalize and harden ). I also put a thin layer of hot glue on the bearing parallel to the hobbled bolt which helped a lot ( it gives the hobbled bolt more grip to pull the filament into the e3d. and lastly was an upgraded hobbed bolt.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good point on the nozzle. The brass nozzles are easily replaceable on the all metal hotends (Hexagon, E3D, etc.).
    And I had to start seasoning and oiling when I swapped my original E3D nozzle out.

    There is a (nasty) process for cleaning the nozzles -- it involves a blow torch :)
    Given how cheap they are I just retired the one I was having issues with.
     
  11. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    Some of my PLA prints well at 190 other at 240 I just play with the temp till results please me.

    And Thanks, I'm glad my videos are helping :)
     
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  12. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Yeah, I did do that, but like I've said I might of not have tighten it hard enough.

    lot of new info right here. where's a good place to buy one? What size do I need to get? Could you show me the picture of the feed bearing, so that I can see how you did it? Thanks in advance.
    P.S: been thinking about changing the hobbled bolt out too. even before I changed it to the E3D it kept chewing trough the PLAs

    I did get a back up nozzle when I bought it, I guess i can swap it out, but you guys think that it really is the nozzle? It's been clogging from the start, and the nozzle was free from any PLA when I unscrewed it.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is jamming inside the heat break then no, it is not the nozzle.
     
  14. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Dang it all then. lol
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is jamming in the heat break it can almost only be -- wait for it --> too cold.

    At least with PLA. On the NinjaFlex it might just be feeding it too fast.
    Hmmm... did you do the extruder calibration? Maybe the PLA is just feeding too fast as well (but, in all fairness, I have not seen that happen before).

    The 'too cold' might even be untrue (in reality) since it could just be the thermistor not reading correctly (reading too low).
    Did you change thermistor type in the firmware when you converted to the E3D?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sort of grabbing at straws here since the symptoms are not really making sense.
     
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  17. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Yeah, I did do a E step cal. well, for the ninjaflex. and when I swithed over to the PLA it extruded 100.59 MM from 100, so I'll say that's pretty close.
    As far as the thermistor goes, I am sure I did. I followed Mike Kelly's guide for it and downloaded and update the firmware I got from his guide. (http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ormation-installation-guides-and-review.3407/).

    :confused:
     
  18. nierro

    nierro Member

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    I was looking at the hobbed bolt and saw this. dose it have to make the mark like this?
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Well part of the melt zone is inside the heat break. But if it heats up too soon it can expand and get stuck. This is usually caused by inadequate cooling.
     
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  20. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Any suggestion on this? I am using the fan that came with the e3d and it's running full blast.
     

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