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KTMDirtFace's new R1+

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by KTMDirtFace, Apr 1, 2016.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Bought a second Robo3d and

    DOH! Came like this in the box. I must have bad luck my R1 I bought a year ago also came with broken parts.

    [​IMG]

    Just sent a parts replacement request. I bought it on amazon so I could technically just send it back and get a new printer but whatever its easy enough for me to fix the bed. I have some 1/8" aluminum out in the shop I may try using that as a bed for this weekend.
     
    #1 KTMDirtFace, Apr 1, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2016
  2. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    New bed on the way.. that was quick.
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If you ever decide to go Aluminum on the bed, that would also be a good time to increase the size of the heater so that it matches the build area.
     
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  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    The aluminum i have laying around isn't quite the right size nor is it flat.got a big bow in it.. ( its 12x12 x 1/8" thick ). I could cut it but it would be a bit short at least to fit on the stock Y rail deals. Not worth messing with right now for me, just gonna wait for the new bed.

    Shot of them...the makerbot got moved to the other room to be cleaned up to sell.
    [​IMG]
     
    #4 KTMDirtFace, Apr 1, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2016
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  5. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    It lives, this week was like christmas. New heater cores for my first robo3d. new bed for my new Robo3d. and a HTC Vive for VR :)

    [​IMG]

    First print on new robo came out pretty good, bone stock.. I can't remember when my first robo3d was stock lol.
    [​IMG]

    Auto bed level compensation seems to work way better than my original R1 ever has.
    Quick test. The outerline is the skirt so part of the not so good lines is becasue it takes a bit to start extruding properly. the inner ring is 2 layers heigh and seems to have worked well.
    [​IMG]
     
    #5 KTMDirtFace, Apr 7, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
    jonnyb44 likes this.
  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Fleks3d installed, I like to try all build surfaces. I don't really need it as PLA is sticking to the plain old glass but I wanted to try it.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    First real print, temp a bit high and stock cooling fan not quite up to snuff(have gotten much better ears on this print on my other robo), but it came out good. Fleks3d plate worked good I just bent it and the part came right off. My new robo is experiancing the EXACT same bed level problems that my old one does. the right side is always more smashed down than the left.. Have never been able to figure this out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Switch it to RC5 and use MESH leveling, that will solve your issue. And since you have two Robo's now, it should be a requirement that you keep one on the bleeding edge.
     
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  9. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'll try that on my modded out one. :)
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I think I may have found a way to get the Left to Right auto level to actually work. Still have issues with front to back though.

    So normally I do G28, raise the nozzle till a sheet of paper just fits under it, then hold one side lead screw turn the other one till the switch clicks.. keep doing that back and forth. Unfortunatly in reality even though its perfect for the center.. due to the weight of the motor on the right side of the carriage the right NEVER lifts during auto level and i Get really smashed down prints on the right side of the bed but not the left.

    I just did this and it seems to have worked. I did G28 then raised it a tad, turned the motors off slid the carriage all the way to the left. Lowered it until a sheet of paper had some drag on the left, and THEN did the hold left/right lead screws until they click in unison. Seems to have actually worked, now when auto level happens both switches trigger at the same time when it probes the left side. WHich has never ever been the case before on either printer.

    In summary I adjusted my z switches to trigger at the same time when the carriage is on the left of the machine.

    Although looking at it from the front of the machine it just doesn't look right.. the x axis is skewed pretty hard at and angle ( right side is lower than left )

    I may have to look into this mesh leveling, or an IR or inductive sensor. I don't like the way the robo's probing works because of the motor weight on the right side.
     
    #10 KTMDirtFace, Apr 10, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2016
  11. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    What should the heater dimensions be?
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    At the very least 240 x 240 mm or 250 x 250 mm
     
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  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Had a massive clog in my hotend yesterday. Have only printed maybe 2 hours worth of stuff. Tried all my tricks. I ended up having to remove the hotend and blow torch it.

    What happened was the stock spool holder ( sucks ) the pla snapped..then something happend and a wad of half melted pla got stuck in the hotend. I tried to pull it out with needle noses but it would get stuck.. tried to jam it through it would get stuck. Took the nozzle off and tried to force it through..got stuck. took the hotend off and out to the shop.. few seconds with the blow torch lit it all on fire and i jammed some wire through.. CLEAR..

    LOL well its printing again and printing quite well really.

    Ohh the joys of 3d printers.
     
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  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I don't know what my deal is but I can't leave things stock.

    e3Dv6, and volcano on the way for the new robo. lol.
     
  15. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    I have a 350mm X 240mm heater on the way. Plan to use it with the extended Y to try and get 220mm X 330mm printable heated area.
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I just realized I have two massive sized heaters for a printer I dismantled long ago. Might look into getting a chunk of aluminum that will fit.
     
  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Well my R1+ has been doing pretty good, unfortunatly, for whatever reason when I try to unload filament ( after I havn't used the printer for awhile ). It becomes a hardlocked jam. heated it up to 260 tried to pull the filament out with pliars.. no go wont even budge.

    I'm tired of taking the Hexagon out to the shop to use the blowtorch on it to unclog it...so E3D V6 and probably Volcano is going on it now. ( Never ever had this issue on with E3D on my R1 robo so i guess its the hexagon )
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Is that little baby fan running all the time? Mine never had an issue until the x went home and the cooling fan wouldshut off lol
     
  19. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    What fan? the PLA fan or the other one?

    Whatever is going on seems to create a plastic turd baby inside the extruder, that can't be pushed out or pulled.

    Whatever I already have a e3d sitting here from printed solid so the hexagon is going in a box with the other one lol.
     
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  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I was referring to the 25mm fan on the side of the extruder.

    but if you have an e3d on standby :) lol
     

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