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Lead Screw Upgrade Kit

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Harry, Jul 14, 2015.

  1. Judd Sandage

    Judd Sandage New Member

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    the Y axis then, I can never remember which is which. also something I printed last night that had text on it came out reversed, yet I know the print job was sent to it correctly.
     
  2. Greg Thomas

    Greg Thomas New Member

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    I get my new screws on Friday, which means I will be taking apart the printer for the first time this weekend. I am considering a few other mods while its apart, and suggestions on the "must do" mods? So far I have left everything pretty much stock.
     
  3. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I would leave everything else stock if nothing is going wrong.

    Plus, doing multiple things at the same time makes it harder to track when something went wrong if something goes awry.
     
  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Dual parts fans + LCD are pretty much the only mods I suggest these days
     
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  5. Judd Sandage

    Judd Sandage New Member

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    yeah Dual fans are my next mod, and maybe replaceing the print head for either an E3D or that Prometheus one, it looks interesting.
     
  6. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Unless you are having issues with your extruder, the all metal hex stock extruder does a great job. Not a huge ROI going to E3D from what I have heard. The lead screws upgrade will be a big plus for now.

    I agree the dual fans and the lcd are good ones to put on your list. Mike Kelly has great models for each on thingiverse. Waldo has a dual fan block that modified Mike's to update the extruder cooler fan from 25mm to 30mm. A good option.

    Be careful taking off the bottom plate. The fan for the RAMPS board attached to the bottom plate is near the front right and unplugs easily. I would open from the opposite side (left) slowly and note where it is plugged into the board and which side red and black go into.

    Might want to do a print before and after the upgrade so you can marvel at the difference. Good luck and remember there are always awesome folks in the Shoutbox willing to help if you have questions while doing the upgrade.
     
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  7. Greg Thomas

    Greg Thomas New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. I considered the LCD but I am running Octopi with it mounted right to the side of my printer, then I took a cheap windows tablet that was a give away at some event and have it open the browser to Octopi. I know it doesn't offer the same control that the LCD does but it gives me most of the basics that I need for now.

    I will definitely do a before and after print.
     
  8. Sonny's Robo3D

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    Here is my before and after - the difference is stark
     

    Attached Files:

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  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    That's a great improvement. Must feel like you are printing with a whole new printer for a $100 upgrade. Happy printing Sonny!
     
  10. Greg Thomas

    Greg Thomas New Member

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    Did the lead screw upgrade over the weekend and did see a slight difference with the new screws (Test print at .1 layers). Not as drastic as some of the others are posting. They are much smoother and quieter though. I was going to do Dreamflakes Dual Fan and LED rings (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:655450) but when I installed them they hung down below the hot end. So I went back to the stock setup for now. I have the new fans I just need to find a setup I like.

    The install went really well, the only issue I had was that the heated beds thermaster came unplugged and I had to ask for the location of the plug to reconnect it. Everything else went fine. I really like how simple the Robo is to work on.
     
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  11. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Greg, what size fans did you get and are you running the stock extruder? The E3D hangs a bit lower. I have the stock extruder and am running 2 40x40x10 fans attached to this block by @Mike Kelly. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:720018

    Post a before and after if you can. Maybe there is something else wrong. Did you make sure they were straight before putting them on? I assume they are since I think that was an old QC issue.
     
  12. Greg Thomas

    Greg Thomas New Member

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    I picked up Scythe Mini KAZE 40mm Silent Case Fans from Amazon. I have the stock extruder. I have seen to many posts saying the ROI on going from hex to E3D isn't worth it. I will find a fan mount that works for me, I just wanted the one with the led ring. I printed the fan mounts before switching the screws, I also did a test print that that confirmed everything is printing the same size. The screws were straight as an arrow. that was the first thing I checked after reading all the horror stories.

    I am finishing up the print of a large prop gun from Destiny for my son. Once I finish that I will go back to looking for fan mounts. Thanks for the advice.
     
  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Finally got around to starting to install my lead screw upgrade.

    Does polarity matter on the stop switches? the X and left Z had the red wire on the left. the right Z ( that fell apart ).. had it opposite...I think I don't remember.


    One of my right side Z stop switch wires ripped out of the crimp deal. I'm not a fan of crimped junk anyway..but for now I soldered the wire back in to the crimp deal.
    [​IMG]

    Does polarity matter on these guys?

    [​IMG]

    Thanks
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Polarity is N/A for the switches although getting them back on the correct poles is important (i.e. NO versus NC would make a difference).
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Ok thanks so just plug them into the two outer prongs and im good?
     
  16. Patrick Elliott

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    I just finished install these along with a heated bed and new y axis, What setting changes do I need to make for the Z axis?
     
  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    http://guide.robo3d.com/Wiki/ROBO_3D_Firmware_Release_Notes

    You need to flash to the lead screw upgrade firmware...or Waldo in some post on here posted the diffrences so you could just change the diffs I think.
     
    #117 KTMDirtFace, Sep 16, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2015
  18. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    A thing I noticed.. how do I calibrate the left and right side now? just eyeball it? the new Z stop clips sorta prevent it from getting way out of wack. Should I just get a level or just eyeball it and call it good ( what i have done now )

    Also wow the Z axis movement is so much quieter now with this upgrade. and I had lots of grease and whatnot on the stock setup.
     
  19. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    What I normally do is, have the extruder carriage on the left side and lower the left side so the nozzle is just above the bed. Move the carriage then to the right side, and do the same. Bring it back to the left and make a slight adjustment if needed, and then back to the right and do the same thing. That should be the only time you will ever need to "level" the axis's.

    Let me know if that helps or you have any other questions!
    Regards,
    Harry
    Team ROBO 3D
     
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  20. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    So is this upgrade worth it for an R1 i just bought or just the older models? I can't find much information. Also are they on backorder? website says they're in stock so i may order a set.
     

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