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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Harry, Jul 14, 2015.
Do you have an R1 or R1+
I have an R1
If you don't have any print quality issues, it's not worth the upgrade
You can turn the screw as long as the motors are off. I noticed mine was slightly off on the right, so I just gave that screw a turn before each print until the skirt looked even right to left.
I did notice though that my z offset seems to have changed drastically. I was printing at .45 and still had small gaps. Now I am back to .80 anyone else see a change like this?
Your offset will change because the position of your switches changes slightly
My offset didn't seem to change. still using -0.8 and its working good.
Have not been able to get my LCD controller to work since flashing the leadscrew firmware. its the full graphics one and yea I changed the config file and included the u8 something drivers. Not sure what its problem is.
@KTMDirtFace does it compile without errors?
What errors are you getting.
I putzed with this for a couple of hours before I finally got it compiling. The Arduino IDE was being silly about how it loaded libraries.
Are you sure you uncommented the correct lcd screen?
I know I did, but it was still bitching about the library it needed.
I ended up having to import it twice before it finally figured out that it was really there.
No errors, compiles and uploads fine.
And Yes I uncommented the right thing I diffed with my old modified firmware as well.
Thinking my LCD crapped out..its been pretty flaky to begin with. sometimes mid print the screen would shut off or switch to garbled chinese...would continue to print fine though.
Well that's a trash disposal/compacting offense right there.
Well apparently my waldo-ing skills suck. I tried the lead screw firmware, but then my z axis wouldn't home. I have a Kickstarter version pla printer, I have not converted to the Autoleveling set up. I don't know enough about Ardunios to sit and compare the two firmwares to find the differences.
Yea, the autolevel firmware still assumes an R1.
I upgraded the beta I added the leadscrews on to include the Z axis switches (they are slightly differently mounted and two of them) then just used the Robo R1 firmware.
If you do not have the R1 or the autolevel switches you will need to make a few extra mods to the old beta firmware to adapt to the new lead screws. Those changes would be the Z steps/mm mostly I imagine... they will be different for the new leadscrews. We can get that from the lead screew update version of the configuration.h and you can merge that manually into your copy.
I think the upgrade is too expensive considering i bought my printer 3 months ago. It's working bad, i always have issues and now my
threaded rods are twisted so i'm getting poor quality prints. If you see my prints you can tell where every layer is
Robo should evolve as a company. It's an industrial printer, you can't get more problems with a Robo that a DIY Prusa. I'm from argentina and i can make a huge list of troubles i had with My R1..
I had issues with mine mostly quality control problems. fixed those and now my robo is great...been using it more than my other 2.
my other printers are both way over the cost of the robo3d
Leapfrog Creatr - I have done so many mods to this machine to get it to print..its never printed well..and costs way more than double the cost of the robo.
Makerbot Replicator2 - was more expensive than the robo3d but its had its share of issues..but out of my 3 printers its the only one that worked out of the box.
Its just the way FDM pritners are..
Now if robo3d would get some better quality control it would be really great.
Do you have the R1 or R1+? Not sure how they would just become twisted. If you have an R1, check your couplers. Either you leadscrew isn't seated correctly into the coupler, or the coupler screws are becoming loose and causing a wobble. The stock couplers squeeze the rod. Hopefully a retightening is all you need. Things get a bit loose on these. That's why it's a good idea to go through it with some blue loc-tite for any screws attaching to metal. Don't do that on metal to plastic connections. Also make sure your z smooth rods are properly seated to the top of the printer lid. Happy printing.
Mike, I found : T8X2-4 Start, 8mm Lead at MPJA.com is this close?
Not sure, got a link?
The ones robo ship are TR8*4 2 start