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Lead Screw Upgrade Kit

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Harry, Jul 14, 2015.

  1. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Do you have an R1 or R1+
     
  2. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I have an R1
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    If you don't have any print quality issues, it's not worth the upgrade
     
  4. Greg Thomas

    Greg Thomas New Member

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    You can turn the screw as long as the motors are off. I noticed mine was slightly off on the right, so I just gave that screw a turn before each print until the skirt looked even right to left.

    I did notice though that my z offset seems to have changed drastically. I was printing at .45 and still had small gaps. Now I am back to .80 anyone else see a change like this?
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Your offset will change because the position of your switches changes slightly
     
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  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    My offset didn't seem to change. still using -0.8 and its working good.

    Have not been able to get my LCD controller to work since flashing the leadscrew firmware. its the full graphics one and yea I changed the config file and included the u8 something drivers. Not sure what its problem is.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What errors are you getting.

    I putzed with this for a couple of hours before I finally got it compiling. The Arduino IDE was being silly about how it loaded libraries.
     
  9. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Are you sure you uncommented the correct lcd screen?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I know I did, but it was still bitching about the library it needed.
    I ended up having to import it twice before it finally figured out that it was really there.
     
  11. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    No errors, compiles and uploads fine.

    And Yes I uncommented the right thing I diffed with my old modified firmware as well.

    Thinking my LCD crapped out..its been pretty flaky to begin with. sometimes mid print the screen would shut off or switch to garbled chinese...would continue to print fine though.
     
    #131 KTMDirtFace, Sep 17, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2015
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well that's a trash disposal/compacting offense right there.
     
  13. Patrick Elliott

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    Well apparently my waldo-ing skills suck. I tried the lead screw firmware, but then my z axis wouldn't home. I have a Kickstarter version pla printer, I have not converted to the Autoleveling set up. I don't know enough about Ardunios to sit and compare the two firmwares to find the differences.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, the autolevel firmware still assumes an R1.

    I upgraded the beta I added the leadscrews on to include the Z axis switches (they are slightly differently mounted and two of them) then just used the Robo R1 firmware.

    If you do not have the R1 or the autolevel switches you will need to make a few extra mods to the old beta firmware to adapt to the new lead screws. Those changes would be the Z steps/mm mostly I imagine... they will be different for the new leadscrews. We can get that from the lead screew update version of the configuration.h and you can merge that manually into your copy.
     
  15. JOAQUIN PICCI

    JOAQUIN PICCI Member

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    I think the upgrade is too expensive considering i bought my printer 3 months ago. It's working bad, i always have issues and now my
    threaded rods are twisted so i'm getting poor quality prints. If you see my prints you can tell where every layer is

    Robo should evolve as a company. It's an industrial printer, you can't get more problems with a Robo that a DIY Prusa. I'm from argentina and i can make a huge list of troubles i had with My R1..
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I had issues with mine mostly quality control problems. fixed those and now my robo is great...been using it more than my other 2.

    my other printers are both way over the cost of the robo3d
    Leapfrog Creatr - I have done so many mods to this machine to get it to print..its never printed well..and costs way more than double the cost of the robo.
    Makerbot Replicator2 - was more expensive than the robo3d but its had its share of issues..but out of my 3 printers its the only one that worked out of the box.

    Its just the way FDM pritners are..

    Now if robo3d would get some better quality control it would be really great.
     
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Do you have the R1 or R1+? Not sure how they would just become twisted. If you have an R1, check your couplers. Either you leadscrew isn't seated correctly into the coupler, or the coupler screws are becoming loose and causing a wobble. The stock couplers squeeze the rod. Hopefully a retightening is all you need. Things get a bit loose on these. That's why it's a good idea to go through it with some blue loc-tite for any screws attaching to metal. Don't do that on metal to plastic connections. Also make sure your z smooth rods are properly seated to the top of the printer lid. Happy printing.
     
  18. James Cullins

    James Cullins New Member

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    Mike, I found : T8X2-4 Start, 8mm Lead at MPJA.com is this close?
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Not sure, got a link?

    The ones robo ship are TR8*4 2 start
     
  20. James Cullins

    James Cullins New Member

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