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Marlin Firmware Upgrade 1.1.0 RC8 & RCBugFix (For R1 & R1+PLUS)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jun 11, 2015.

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  1. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    I did. This stuff is supposed to be good from 230c-250c. My best has been at 223c doing a tower - that was the last segment, dropping -2c at a time.
    Gotta recenter the tower.

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Make sure you do both Hotend (E0) and Bed (E-1).
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Filament, including PETG will change over time, humidity, etc. Hard to say exactly what is causing your issues.
     
  4. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Looks like it's this roll. At 230c I'm getting light popping. My Volcano is cooking this stuff.

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is wet -- you are hearing the water boil away. Makes a little snap-crackle-pop
     
  6. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    New roll of Inland PETG. Stops popping at 228c. That's why the tower. Been giving me fits, but I know it's PETG because it sticks like the devil to a 90c clean glass bed.

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  7. Bradf80

    Bradf80 New Member

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    Did the bed and extruder PID and it still halted. If I turn off the fan it's fine.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Bradf80 sounds like either a weak heating element or you fan is blowing on the heater block instead of the filament that is coming out of it, I just switched my E3Dv6 to the new sock setup and it all but eliminated my issues with temperatures falling when the fans came on. It also helped that I ramp up the fan speed several steps over a lot of layers.
     
  9. Bradf80

    Bradf80 New Member

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    If I turn down the temp on the bed from 90 to 70 it doesn't have the error either. So I think it's just the bed holding at 90, it doesn't move a lot. Less than 5c. Is there a way to expand the range of hysterisis in the config somewhere?
     
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Somewhere in Configuration.h is a section on the bed
    Code:
    // Bed temperature must be close to target for this long before M190 returns success
    #define TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME 10  // (seconds)
    #define TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
    #define TEMP_BED_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.
    
    Not sure that works as you might think it should. You can always turn off Bed temp protection here:
    Code:
    #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED     // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So it is the 15th and here are the files for Marlin 1.1.0 RCBugFix as of March 15, 2017. I have separated them out into several compressed archive files. Just download the one you need and extract the appropriate files within the Marlin source sub-directory. You cannot use configuration files from previous Marlin releases or from previous Release Candidates. These archives contain the complete source modified as noted. This version and future versions of Marlin must be compiled on Arduino IDE 1.6.8 or newer.

    Basic steps required:
    1. Download one of the attached files appropriate for your hardware
      RCBF_ABL_R1_03-15 for Robo R1 with 8 mm Z Axis threaded rods
      RCBF_ABL_PLUS_03-15 for Robo R1+PLUS and R1's upgraded with the Z-Axis lead screw upgrade kit from Robo3D
      RCBF_ABL_TR82_03-15 for Robo R1's with upgraded Z Axis 3rd party lead screws
    2. Compile and upload to your Arduino 2540 board using the Arduino IDE. Compilation has been tested with Arduino IDE version 1.8.1 only.
    3. After successful upload, clear EEPROM memory by issuing the following two commands in terminal mode:
      M502
      M500
    4. Re-enter you Z axis offset using M851 as a positive number. M565 support is not supported in this version
    5. Make sure to run the PID auto tune routine for your printer for both hotend (E0) and bed (E-1). Edit Configuration.h with your specific values and recompile and upload to your printer.

    Common to all these files are:
    1. Set up for Hexagon hotend
    2. Full Graphics LCD enabled
    3. EEPROM memory enabled
    4. Automatic Bed Leveling enabled w/16 probe points (4 x 4 grid)
    5. BILINEAR bed leveling enabled as default
    6. Major performance improvement for Graphical LCDs
    7. Some other stuff
    New - 3rd party lead screw version changed to support TR8*2 lead screws

    New - Set 30 second menu timeout interval for LCD screen

    New - Heating status now displays which extruder is currently heating (fixed)

    New - Double-clicking the encoder wheel jumps to baby-stepping (enabled)

    New - Boot splash screen

    Please note that I am not one of the Marlin developers. If you have an issue with this release post here first. If it is determined that it is not a configuration issue, then you may be directed to post the issue on Marlin's GITHUB. I cannot guarantee success using beta firmware, I can vouch for error free compiling with these included files. If there are issues with the configuration let me know and we can work on them together. Original post (#1) edited to provide a link to these current RCBugFix files.
     

    Attached Files:

    #1051 WheresWaldo, Mar 15, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
    Joshua Johnston likes this.
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So it is the 15th and here are the files for Marlin 1.1.0 RCBugFix as of March 15, 2017. I have separated them out into several compressed archive files. Just download the one you need and extract the appropriate files within the Marlin source sub-directory. You cannot use configuration files from previous Marlin releases or from previous Release Candidates. These archives contain the complete source modified as noted. This version and future versions of Marlin must be compiled on Arduino IDE 1.6.8 or newer.

    Basic steps required:
    1. Download one of the attached files appropriate for your hardware
      RCBF_MESH_R1_03-15 for Robo R1 with 8 mm Z Axis threaded rods
      RCBF_MESH_PLUS_03-15 for Robo R1+PLUS and R1's upgraded with the Z-Axis lead screw upgrade kit from Robo3D
      RCBF_MESH_TR82_03-15 for Robo R1's with upgraded Z Axis 3rd party lead screws
    2. Compile and upload to your Arduino 2540 board using the Arduino IDE. Compilation has been tested with Arduino IDE version 1.8.1 only.
    3. After successful upload, clear EEPROM memory by issuing the following two commands in terminal mode:
      M502
      M500
    4. Re-enter you Z axis offset, if needed, using G29 S4 Zn.nn, where n.nn is the amount of offset from the bed. M565 and M851 support are not supported in this version of Marlin.
    5. Make sure to run the PID auto tune routine for your printer for both hotend (E0) and bed (E-1). Edit Configuration.h with your specific values and recompile and upload to your printer.
    Common to all these files are:
    1. Set up for Hexagon hotend
    2. Full Graphics LCD enabled
    3. EEPROM memory enabled
    4. MESH Bed Leveling enabled w/25 probe points (5 x 5 grid)
    5. Major performance improvement for Graphical LCDs
    6. MESH adjustment heights configured to prevent fractional micro-steps
    New - 3rd party lead screw version changed to support TR8*2 lead screws

    New - Set 30 second menu timeout interval for LCD screen

    New - Heating status now displays which extruder is currently heating (fixed)

    New - Double-clicking the encoder wheel jumps to baby-stepping (enabled)

    New - Boot splash screen

    Please note that I am not one of the Marlin developers. If you have an issue with this release post here first. If it is determined that it is not a configuration issue, then you may be directed to post the issue on Marlin's GITHUB. I cannot guarantee success using beta firmware, I can vouch for error free compiling with these included files. If there are issues with the configuration let me know and we can work on them together. Original post (#1) edited to provide a link to these current RCBugFix files.
     

    Attached Files:

    #1052 WheresWaldo, Mar 15, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
    Robert55 likes this.
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    One note if you get garbage on the LCD screen please change the following line in Configuration_adv.h:
    Code:
      #define DOGM_SPI_DELAY_US 5     //--BH May need to increase to 7 for LCD screens that have corrupted displays
    
    Change the 5 to 7 or 10
     
  14. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    I've got a question about the relationship between the slicing software and the firmware. I'm using S3D right now, but had the same problem with Mattercontrol. Referring to my prior post about the PETG, I scienced it. A half dozen temperature calibration towers later, the best looking extrusions came out at about 200c, well below the labeled minimum of 230c. All well and good. I had to run an extrusion multiplier of 200% from the RepRap Discount LCD controller (under "Tune"/"Flow") in order to do it, though. The extrusion multiplier on the "Nozzle" page, and the tuning multiplier on the "Machine Control" page no longer seem to do anything. So then I switched to Weed Wacker nylon (I'm making fly swatters - sue me), and the same thing happens, only I'm getting the best results over 300%. I've only had this after swapping out from the stock firmware. Bug, maybe?? I've got no clue - the extruder is new, good, and clean.
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Robert55, do you have a E3D or Hexagon hot end?

    Also if your extrusion multiplier is that high you have a messed up configuration. Something in not correct. This is really not a firmware issue but rather a software issue and I would suggest that you open a thread in troubleshooting to get to the bottom of it.

    There are just too many questions that need asked and answered to add it to this thread which focuses on the firmware only.
     
  16. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Just wondering. I had the LCD controller laying around and attached it at the same time as I installed the mesh leveling firmware. I'll reflash the stock firmware and see what it does first with the controller and without. So the only config.h changes I made were to the mesh leveling and the config.h for the RepRap Discount LCD - the smaller one.
     
  17. powerzog91

    powerzog91 New Member

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    Needing a little help on my update.....having no issues compiling or uploading the files, but I'm trying to use the abl setup, but it keeps finishing up as the mesh bed setup. I had installed the mesh bed files, but decided that it wasn't what I wanted, so I tried to get it back to the abl......compiles and uploads ok, but still can't get it back to the abl setup. Not knowledgeable enough to figure it out by myself yet, so any help would be greatly appreciated. And, by the way, thanks for everything you do @WheresWaldo, people like you make it easier for noobs like me.
     
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @powerzog91 Download the ABL files from post #1051 or the RC8 files from post #926, I just check each one and they are set up for Auto Bed Leveling using a 4 x 4 grid.

    @Robert55 This is a basic misunderstanding that a lot of people share about the LCD controller and how it works. The LCD controller in any flavor is simply a reporting/input device and does not affect any of the configuration set within the firmware. It does provide you a way to easily modify and store in memory changes from the default, but by itself stores none of the information you input into it.
     
    #1058 WheresWaldo, Mar 16, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2017
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  19. David Hamann

    David Hamann New Member

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    hi im still new to coding.
    im having a problem with the mesh bed leveling.
    when i start leveling program is seems to not go to z stop?
    even when i auto home it does not go to z stop it only goes up. and cant go down again only by turning the rods manualy
    i have a robo3d beta (kickstarter) (with the draw rollers on the bed) with 8mm rods. and e3d head.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That firmware is just not setup for the beta.
    You will need to tweak the configuration.h

    I might have an older one you can use as a starting point.
    You can't just use the older one since they have added more stuff in there...
    The biggest changes will be the steps/mm for the Z axis.

    You will need to use MESH leveling because you do not have the correct Z switches to use the auto bed leveling.
     
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