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Community Favorite Mike Kelly's RoBo3D Enclosure

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Jun 21, 2014.

  1. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    I like this design, but thought I would try making something with foam board. It's lighter, and easier to work with (no laser cutter here).

    I used the clips shared by Lee Davis.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Avrution, lerch124, Geof and 3 others like this.
  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    resourcefully clever. How much did that cost you? Looks like a decent alternative.
     
  3. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    Thanks! I guess $3 for the foam board, and the plastic came from a poster frame kit I got at Target for $8 and some white duct tape. I guess around 12 bucks. Cuts down the noise, too.

    On the back side, I just have two pieces of foam board on each side that bock it off using the wall, and overhanging shelf as additional boundaries.
     
  4. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    did you make a pattern for the cutouts to share or was it a one off design? $12 is an easy sell for this project.
     
  5. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    I would love to say that it was that structured of an ordeal, but in all honesty, I held the foam board up to the side of the printer, traced the shape of the housing with a pencil, and then cut on that line. Then did the same on the other side.

    The rest was eye-balled. I figured if I mess up a cut, I'll just cut another one since it's just foam board.

    I will note that the width of the enclosure just HAPPENED to be the right width to support the latch system that I used from Lee. Basically 1/2 inch wider on each side. Any narrower or wider, and the clips would not catch. I'll give it a quick measure when I get back to the house and share here.
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    This is slick. I really wanted to do the lasercut design like this, but it didn't really work because of the need for chamfered edge.

    I'd be much appreciative to hear the inside width, thanks!
     
  7. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    Well Thanks! :)

    The inside width is exactly 11 5/8"

    T
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Gotcha, Mine should be 11.5" . I wonder if it's still possible...
     
  9. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    I would think so. Assuming we are still talking about the clips I'm using from Lee, if your inside width were 11 1/2", then you could move each of the clips that attaches to the frame 1/16" accordingly, and then it would fit.

    I pushed what I would call the female part of this clip (the one that mounts on the frame) all the way in. When pushed in this far, and with the male parts sitting in the notch, the distance for me was 11 5/8". If I were to nudge each female part by 1/16" (the one on the left would move a hair to the right, and the one on the right would move a hair to the left) then the distance would then be 11 1/2"

    My female clips are only held in place with friction, so I pushed them all the way in, if that makes sense . . .
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I'm still a tiny bit confused on his design. Does it use screws to hold the clamp part in place?

    @Lee would you be willing to share the source files? I'm thinking it may be easier that way but I could probably figure out something
     
  11. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    It does use screws, but it is a tight fit on the frame, so I just go with friction. And for the parts that attach to the foam board, I use one screw where there are two holes.
    It is this item number on Thingiverse : 1162525
     
  12. Lee

    Lee Member

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    Hi Mike,

    Here are the Solidworks files. It is from the Student version 2015. Here is the link to ThingIVerse

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1162525

    The Hole Jig is to drill the holes in the sides of your covers. While I made the slots to be snug when putting the LeftLatch and RightLatch on the Robo case, I used 8-32 set screws to hold them more securely.

    If you need the files in a different format, let me know.

    Lee
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I just gotta say man, I love this mount design. I originally was offering anyone who could come up with a design that didn't require drilling into the case a free enclosure, so I can do that for you if you'd like. Otherwise I can work out some store credit with Printed Solid for ya

    I modified your design a bit to use hex nuts in traps to give a bit more gripping power. Largely unnecessary I'd say but if it's something that might be undone a couple times, it's nice to have that protection. If you don't object I'll upload them to thingiverse as a remix of yours
     
  14. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    Seconded! Well done, Lee! This mount is working perfectly for me. Thinking of adding another enclosure to the back and making another set. :)
     
  15. Lee

    Lee Member

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    Hi Mike,

    Thank you for the kind words. I am glad you like it. You are certainly welcome to add your mod as a remix. While I did not do it expecting payment, I would be glad to accept a credit at your site. Thank you.

    As a side note, 2 other mods I have made to your cover are 1. cutting a slot in the back for the ribbon cable which a lot of folks have done and 2. cutting a small piece out of the back right side of the cover. I reprinted the spool holder that Robo includes but offset it about halfway on the base. I would have preferred a top mount but I wanted to keep the printer where it would clear a top cabinet. After I reinsulated the bottom of the bed, I will say that your covers really hold the heat in well.
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Hi all! I recently bought the kit from Printed Solid and finally gave up on trying to glue it. For now...it is held together mostly with tin HVAC tape. :) I plan on using a cabinet hinge as well, but only on the front piece, not the hole front enclosure.

    I am running the R1 Plus and am having potential interference issues with the ribbon cable at the rear. Has anyone else seen this? If so, did it cause any issues during processing (table stall, etc.)?

    I am running mine in the basement and expect to be running a lot of Nylon, so I am also installing an exhaust system. I'm using an 80mm dual ball bearing case fan ($8 at ENU), heater ducting, some PVC pipe and an exterior dryer vent (just like my dryer uses). Hopefully that will also serve additional cooling. I'll post some pics when it is complete and (hopefully) working successfully. :)

    Thanks for any advice on the ribbon cable issue!
     
  17. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Thanks for posting your results. Mike makes it look easy :) We're working on a screw together version, but it might be a little bit with my shop opening and Mike's new job.

    I don't think you need to worry about venting nylon. AFAIK, particles only become a concern when you're burning it. There shouldn't be much smell if you dry it first. ABS and PC are the ones you want to vent. Nylon also doesn't need cooling (unless you mean board cooling, in which case cool away).

    What is the issue with the ribbon cable? I thought we made a change to the newer versions to address it and the older versions could be filed (discussed way back in the thread).
     
  18. Lee

    Lee Member

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    Hi,
    If you look at picture BackSlot.jpg above, you will see that I cut a long slot in mine. A friend cut a longer slot in his.

    When gluing acrylic, here is a good video on how to.
    http://www.tapplastics.com/product_info/videos/how_to_glue_acrylic
    I used the applicator. I also held the 2 edges like a letter V instead of a letter L like the video showed. I also tilted it downward. That way the glue was always wanting to run to an outside corner. If I put too much on it just flowed through the seam and onto the work surface. So, I was always working on the inside of the case. I didn't put too much on at first. Then after it cured a while I went back and put more on all joints.

    If you have a bunch of seams that do not look good, you can always do 1 of 2 things: 1. print plastic L shaped strips (like angle iron) and put on each side of the joint. 2. get some long thin strips of acrylic and glue them on the inside tight up against the seams. Anyways, just a thought.

    BTW, the enclosure does help.

    Good luck.
    Lee[/QUOTE]
     
    #118 Lee, Mar 28, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2016
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah assembly isn't as easy as I would have liked. Corner clamps make a great second set of hands to keep things in place as you build it. I printed a couple and they work well. I'll add the links to the OP.

    On our latest batch we added a cutout on the rear piece to allow the wires to slip out a little easier. On mine I just kinda bent the wires flat over the edge to get it to work well. Didn't have any issues when I tested it out.
     
  20. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Hi guys,

    Thanks for the quick responses and great info!
    There are small cutouts on the back piece, but the cable is definitely still interfering. I was going to just flatten out the cable as you suggested, but was afraid it would kink a wire and I'd be up a creek! I am in desperate need of printing parts tonight, so I am just removing the rear enclosure for tonight, but will try that later.

    I bought a corner clamp and a couple of the ratchet clamps. I tried using the ratchets without the corner clamp and it was less than effective. Lesson learned. Oh well, it will work as is for the short term. I have had easy success with acrylic before, but this just didn't go that way.

    As for the Nylon fumes...I have read multiple articles and one report from a study that was done that led me down a path of "better safe than sorry" regarding fumes from extruding any plastic within the confines of my home. Running the Robo in my basement means that any fumes at all are being pulled into my HVAC system and distributed throughout my house. Since my projects right now run for 30+ hours per build, that is potentially a lot of stuff floating around and getting into the lungs of myself, my wife and my pets. Might all be for nothing, but I feel better about spending a few bucks and a couple of days building a system to eliminate that risk (mostly).

    Anyway, thanks again! I'll get to running some parts and post my final solution once I have it. :)

    Jim
     

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