NEW Y Axis Linear Motion System and Print Bed Upgrade

Jerry,

Are there any of these kits yet available? Or should I just buy a replacement glass bed and print the rest myself? What is bed availability? I have an original Kickstarter PLA with the acrylic bed.

Thanks,
James

 

Is it still possible to purchase the kit?

 

No. They got burned trying to help people last time. If they get the kits assembled in china they might have the time to do it. No news of that happening yet

 

You could build your own. Pretty simple. The piece of tempered glass was $30 from a local glass shop, the heatbed (200x300) from ebay was $20 bucks, linear bearings, metric round stock was about another 20 bucks and the rest can be printed from Thingiverse.



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Jaeson, can you tell me more about where you bought your heater on ebay, also what thermistor did you use

 

Here's the heatbed.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281311483823&alt=web

and here are the 100k thermistors

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=301239039385&alt=web

I started with printing the bed pieces on the stock bed then ordered the linear bearings and rods (ebay 8mm). I tried use regular plate glass and it worked for a little while. It eventually broke due to thermal stress. You will need to use tempered glass.

Once you have the glass and the heatbed, use high temp silicone to adhere the two together. Its not necessary but I masked off the heatbed with tape and painted the non print side of the glass with high temp engine paint. Be sure not to get any paint on the solder points on the heatbed. You then solder a short length (approx 3 feet) of four strand wire. I bought mine from a local electronics store. Keep the gauge small. Use zip straps and Kapton tape to secure the wire to the bed assembly.

You should replace the fuseable link as well. I had troubles with the stock fuse tripping during long prints. I bought these.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221480603108&alt=web

Let me know if I missed anything.

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The fuseable link is F2 on your board and the thermistor leads go to T2.

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Jaeson, thanks for the feedback, some of the shipping cost are really high, but I guess I'll have to put up with that.

 

I would shop around. I found several sellers with better shipping costs.

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Jaeson, did you just measure and get the glass bed cut to the same size as your existing bed? If not, what measurements as far as overall size did you use? I have the original Kickstarter PLA with the plastic bed and would like to try this upgrade myself. Multiple messages and emails to the Robo3D team have been unanswered as far as shipping time frame for the replacement bed on their site.

Thanks for sharing the info thus far, helps a lot. I already have my E3D V6 and other bed upgrade parts either here, or on the way.

 

Sure thing. I arrived at the same conclusion. If you want to upgrade your bed. You'd better DIY.

This is the build I used.

Robo3D Y-axis smooth rod upgrade for stock bed found on #Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602

I cut had the glass piece made according to the finished product. I'll post the size of the glass in a bit. Quite frankly, the DIY seems to work and look as good as the OEM (in my opinion).

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Hello I got glass heat bed for R1 as Y-AXIS upgrade kit.
It is very nice, but it looks heat bed wiring has been changed with ribbon cable as more hard one from before.
I have referred http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602 .
This middle plate shows no large hole for this heat cable.
But R1's picture shows it as, italic large hole.
Do we have latest data for this ?

regards

 

Pictures please

 

This is new heat bed

 

This picture is explained as Robo3D site as Y-Axis upgrade as middle place

 

Run it in the back like this:

 

ok outside way looks fine

 

I have another question about new heat bed.
It looks new R1 has been hold by magnet .
My getting new heat bed does not have any hole as replacement for old kickstarter version.
But also it does not have steel area for magnet catch .
Is there any trick ?

I am planning to make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602 .
it may use holding by screw.

regards

 

That's not held on by screws no

 

Thanks Mike-san
ok, I will use screw with cap at edge