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NEW Y Axis Linear Motion System and Print Bed Upgrade

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Jerry RoBo 3D, Jan 25, 2014.

  1. Thundersticks

    Thundersticks New Member

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    Jerry,

    Are there any of these kits yet available? Or should I just buy a replacement glass bed and print the rest myself? What is bed availability? I have an original Kickstarter PLA with the acrylic bed.

    Thanks,
    James
     
  2. zbyte64

    zbyte64 New Member

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    Is it still possible to purchase the kit?
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    No. They got burned trying to help people last time. If they get the kits assembled in china they might have the time to do it. No news of that happening yet
     
  4. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

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    You could build your own. Pretty simple. The piece of tempered glass was $30 from a local glass shop, the heatbed (200x300) from ebay was $20 bucks, linear bearings, metric round stock was about another 20 bucks and the rest can be printed from Thingiverse.

    [​IMG]

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
    3 people like this.
  5. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Jaeson, can you tell me more about where you bought your heater on ebay, also what thermistor did you use
     
  6. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

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    Here's the heatbed.

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281311483823&alt=web

    and here are the 100k thermistors

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=301239039385&alt=web

    I started with printing the bed pieces on the stock bed then ordered the linear bearings and rods (ebay 8mm). I tried use regular plate glass and it worked for a little while. It eventually broke due to thermal stress. You will need to use tempered glass.

    Once you have the glass and the heatbed, use high temp silicone to adhere the two together. Its not necessary but I masked off the heatbed with tape and painted the non print side of the glass with high temp engine paint. Be sure not to get any paint on the solder points on the heatbed. You then solder a short length (approx 3 feet) of four strand wire. I bought mine from a local electronics store. Keep the gauge small. Use zip straps and Kapton tape to secure the wire to the bed assembly.

    You should replace the fuseable link as well. I had troubles with the stock fuse tripping during long prints. I bought these.

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221480603108&alt=web

    Let me know if I missed anything.

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
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  7. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

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    The fuseable link is F2 on your board and the thermistor leads go to T2.

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
    #507 Jaeson Cardiff, Jan 11, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 11, 2015
  8. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Jaeson, thanks for the feedback, some of the shipping cost are really high, but I guess I'll have to put up with that.
     
  9. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

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    I would shop around. I found several sellers with better shipping costs.

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
  10. Thundersticks

    Thundersticks New Member

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    Jaeson, did you just measure and get the glass bed cut to the same size as your existing bed? If not, what measurements as far as overall size did you use? I have the original Kickstarter PLA with the plastic bed and would like to try this upgrade myself. Multiple messages and emails to the Robo3D team have been unanswered as far as shipping time frame for the replacement bed on their site.

    Thanks for sharing the info thus far, helps a lot. I already have my E3D V6 and other bed upgrade parts either here, or on the way.
     
  11. Jaeson Cardiff

    Jaeson Cardiff Active Member

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    Sure thing. I arrived at the same conclusion. If you want to upgrade your bed. You'd better DIY.

    This is the build I used.

    Robo3D Y-axis smooth rod upgrade for stock bed found on #Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602

    I cut had the glass piece made according to the finished product. I'll post the size of the glass in a bit. Quite frankly, the DIY seems to work and look as good as the OEM (in my opinion).

    CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech
     
  12. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Hello I got glass heat bed for R1 as Y-AXIS upgrade kit.
    It is very nice, but it looks heat bed wiring has been changed with ribbon cable as more hard one from before.
    I have referred http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602 .
    This middle plate shows no large hole for this heat cable.
    But R1's picture shows it as, italic large hole.
    Do we have latest data for this ?

    regards
     
  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Pictures please
     
  14. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    This is new heat bed
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    This picture is explained as Robo3D site as Y-Axis upgrade as middle place
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Run it in the back like this:
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    ok outside way looks fine
     
  18. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    I have another question about new heat bed.
    It looks new R1 has been hold by magnet .
    My getting new heat bed does not have any hole as replacement for old kickstarter version.
    But also it does not have steel area for magnet catch .
    Is there any trick ?

    I am planning to make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602 .
    it may use holding by screw.

    regards
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's not held on by screws no
     
  20. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Thanks Mike-san
    ok, I will use screw with cap at edge
     

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