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NinjaFlex filament

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Melody Bliss, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. 1nxtmonster

    1nxtmonster Active Member

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    The pencil tube will not come into contact with the hot zone and will not melt.

    There is a barrier that will keep it from going into the hot end.

    I had good success with a plastic tube. Theres really no advantage to either that i can think of.

    Make sure that the tube is cut so that the filament is supported both above and below the drive gear. There's some pictures on the previous pages showing this.

    Also, an oiler seemed to help my ninjaflex print
     
  2. Truman Heberle

    Truman Heberle New Member

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    Ok, so I inserted about 7/8 an inch of plastic tube into the extruder and have another tube guiding the filament prior to entering the extruder, please see pictures attached. Any things to point out before I try printing ninjaflex?
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Brass is less likely to get damaged.
    As long as the tube is not pushed down past the cold section of the hotend it will be fine.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The only hints I have are:
    1) turn retraction off. It will make things worse.
    2) print slow.
    3) really slow.
    4) anticipate that the filament will continue to extrude a little beyond what it is told (because it compresses).
    5) did I mention slow?
     
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  5. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    It looks like the tube underneath your hobbed bolt is too short. It needs to come right up to the bolt to really be effective. That ninja flex is squirmy stuff. It will squeeze through even the smallest opening.

    PLA temps are probably too low. More like 225 should be good.

    Interesting tidbit on ninja flex: If it is too hot, the print actually looks like underextrusion. The filament will melt up a bit in the nozzle and come out more in oozy droplets than a continuous bead. So, if you're working on dialing in your settings and finding that it seems too cold, no matter how hot you are, try running colder instead.
     
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  6. Truman Heberle

    Truman Heberle New Member

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    I have done almost everything except, how do I disable retractions?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Somewhere in whatever you are slicing with you should have settings like this.
    This is my semiflex profile and you will note retraction is disabled.


    retraction.png
     
  8. Truman Heberle

    Truman Heberle New Member

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    ok, so I got the filament to print nicely. however, I the filament spool snags on the holder and creates tension. When I am there to watch it I can feed the filament myself, but I am not always gonna be there to watch it. Should the hobbed bolt provide enough force to feed the filament by itself without the filament slipping or jamming?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The filament spool feed/support that comes with the Robo is lacking (unless they have seriously changed it).
    I use this:

    Filament rack.jpg
     
  10. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    Also try putting blue tape over the edge on the slit in the top of the robo, this will help with friction there too.
     
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  11. mattgraham

    mattgraham New Member

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    Big thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. Your mods helped me get some pretty good prints with ninjaflex.

    There is one caveat though. I can't get the spool to feed. I have a picture attached. I also added tape on the top edge of the Robo to reduce friction, but it still won't create enough force to spin the spool. This stuff is sooo tricky! ERRRRR!! Anyone else share their feed setup?
     

    Attached Files:

  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You see mine two posts above yours. Feeds flawlessly :)
     
  13. mattgraham

    mattgraham New Member

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    Ya, that is quite the setup! I just I don't know why yours is feeding and mine isn't. Since mine is directly over the machine I would think it feeds fine. Perhaps the rod that my spool pivots on has to small a diameter?

    I get some nylon filament next week and I plan to try printing a larger diameter shaft for the spool to pivot on. Nylon is suppose to slippery. So maybe it will work?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In mine gravity helps :)
    Plus the steel rods are easy for the spools to turn on.
     
  15. 1nxtmonster

    1nxtmonster Active Member

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    I don't use the overhead spool holder but rather just the backside clip-on spool holder that came with the ROBO. It works really fine for me.

    Also my first real-world use of ninjaflex! I have a project that needed a pulley and rubber bands would slip. So i designed this guy:

    20150405_150755.jpg
     

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  16. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I agree. I like the current front mounted spool holder.
    Cool use of ninja flex!
     
  17. BuddhaToad

    BuddhaToad New Member

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    I just wanted to thank all of you for helping me get NinjaFlex to work on my printer - I've got several things to print using the recommended print speeds/temperatures and that crafty tube trick.
    Cheers All!
     
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  18. pitcjd01

    pitcjd01 New Member

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    Hello All,

    I have a Robo3D R1 and wanted to chime in with my success story.

    I had issues printing ninjaflex, so I created a new profile in Simplify3D with the following configuration:
    Started with PLA Auto-Configure at "Fast" quality, with 100% infill configured generate support disabled (unless necessary for the part)

    Extruder Tab:
    Nozzle Diameter: 0.40mm (actual nozzle disameter 0.4mm)
    Extrusion Multiplier: 1.00
    Extrusion Width: 0.40
    Retraction disabled.

    Layer Tab:
    Primary Layer Height: 0.400
    Top & bottom solid layers: 6
    First layer settings: all 100%

    Additions Tab:
    Include Skirt, 1 layer, offset 4.00mm, 4 outlines

    Temperature tab:
    Primary Extruder: 240C
    Heated Bed: 40C

    Cooling tab:
    Fan speed 100% all the time

    Scripts tab:
    Starting Gcode:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-.8 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism, yours will need to be different based on your printer
    G29 ; run auto-level
    M92 Z2560 E730.90 ; Set esteps and Z steps, yours will need to be different based on your printer
    M203 E1 ; Set Maximum feed rate for the extruder

    Other Tab:
    Default Printing SPeed: 7.5mm/s
    All underspeeds set to 100%
    x/y axis movement speed: 100mm/s
    z axis movement speed: 16.7mm/s


    Per previous suggestions, I cleaned out the cartridge tube of a ball-point pen.

    I inserted this into the filament guide where the filament would normally go, and manually turned the hobbed bolt a few times to make a mark on the tube.

    I then removed a small amount (half-moon shape) from the tube so that the hobbed bolt could make contact with the filament.

    At this point I no longer had issues with the filament binding up after the hobbed bolt.

    I had further issues with "too long extrusion prevented" and "firmware unresponsive" errors, while other filaments of even longer prints finished just fine, so I generated a gcode file and threw it on an SD card in my reprapdiscount LCD display.

    I've printed a handful of ninjaflex items successfully with this method now.

    I think the errors were something to do with either the computer or the software (printing over USB).

    Now that I've gotten some successful prints, I'll try using a different computer and printing via USB again.

    Hope this helps someone!

    Jacob
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Cool, other than the fact that I used a different material (PTFE tube) this is pretty much identical to what I did.
    It works great to keep the Ninja flex from going crazy. Speed is the other big issue and I see you have yours dialed way down.

    Good work.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I also used the same tube on SemiFlex, but you don't have to slow it down quite as much.
     

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