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PETG suggestions?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by TylerJ, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. Nathan Simers

    Nathan Simers Member

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    i run mine 235 55 and very very slow i put it down to 25% from i think 50. At least i do this when making something like this if it was thicker i would go faster but i thing its all in the speed over anything else. IMG_20160329_041039.jpg IMG_20160331_062317.jpg IMG_20160329_033127.jpg
     
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  2. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    What brand is that ? I like that green
     
  3. Nathan Simers

    Nathan Simers Member

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    inland
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So eSUN, who make all Inland PETG filaments.
     
  5. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    This is with 240 / 80 no print fan at 50mm/sec 30%infill .25 layer height . Esun PETG

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #25 WADZOQUADZ, Mar 31, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  6. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    So are all of you speeds set to 50mm/sec? Do you set the first layer to print slower? What about inside and outside walks? Looks really good.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
     
  7. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Heres my settings .Also remember that this is with the official leadscrew upgrade which made probably the biggest difference in my prints and with E3d V6. BTW another great thing about PETG is its Hydrophobic (Doesn’t Absorb Moisture)
    PETG1.JPG PETG3.JPG petg2.JPG
     
    #27 WADZOQUADZ, Mar 31, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You really slow down a lot for external perimeters.
     
  9. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    Thanks for all the info!

    Did you upgrade the leadscrew on a R1+?
     
  10. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    I do like to print external perimeters slowly . It doesnt add much time and prints good .
    I have a R1 and bought the leadscrew upgrade from ROBO so with the mods its basically a R1+ now
     
  11. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Sorry, but noob here, I hear a lot of talk about these lead screws, are these the twistler looking things that are parallel with the smooth rods that move the extruder up and down? My R1+, the right side has a little wobble, is that okay? It is noticeable, if I need to fix that, how? Thanks- sorry to hijack, OP.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Its the threaded rods that move the cairrage up and down.

    The R1 had rods with some couplers.
    The R1 Plus there is no couplers the rods are directly attached to the motors. ( lead screws ) aka more better.

    Yea little wobbles ok, the smooth rod makes it stay on track anyway.

    FYI I upgraded my R1 to the R1+'s lead screws and it doesn't really make a difference at least for me. I just like to mod :)
     
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  13. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    I read for some people there isnt a noticable difference . for me it was a major difference. i had a ton of z ribbing with the old threaded rod but with leadscrews i now have 0 z ribbing . My leadscrews have no wobble at all. Noticeably more quiet too when moving the z axis.
     
  14. lafaspot

    lafaspot New Member

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    I have been trying to print in PETG at 90 mm/s (5400 mm/minute) on my Robo 3D R1 plus, I am using Hatchbox PETG ordered from amazon.

    I am printing with the fan ON at 100% after first layer. I turned off the Bed temperature and this has made a lot of difference for my prints, I'm just using blue painters tape for now and it works great.

    Settings:
    - First layer at 243c and after that at 235c.
    - I turned off the bed temperature for my prints, this has created better prints. The main reason I did this is to avoid warping on the layer touching the bed. The adhesion has been great even for large objects. I sometimes use the skirt with 0mm distance and 10 outlines with 1 layer to create more adhesion, in case the part has very little contact surface.
    - Fan ON at 100% all time, fan off on first layer.
    - 30% infill

    - Extruder multiplier is 1.15 [Extruder calibration - if you give the command to extrude 100mm of filament, only with a extruder multiplier of 1.15 consumes 100mm of filament][Important]
    - retraction back to 1800, 1mm, 0.2 lift [still working on this one, but this is a good start]
    - speed 5400 mm/minute, outline 50%, solidinfill 80%, rapidxy 8400, rapidz 1000,
    - Bridging unsupported area 10 sq mm, ExtraInflation 0mm, ExtrusionMultiplier 8S%, peedMultiplier 50%
    - Cool 15 seconds, speed reduction 30%
    - Bridging fan speed override 100%.

    I'm still tunning the settings.

    I used Cura and Simplify3d to tune these settings, the values below are for simplify3d. But you can make the same choices in Cura with very similar results, some of the boxes in the pictures where printed using Cura some used Simplify3d.

    I did temperature calibration and extruder calibration to get to some of the base line values and after that a lot of manual tunning. I'm still working on this if I get the prints better, I'll update the post.

    I added 2 pictures with the millennium falcon with these settings, for a large print with a lot of detail.
     

    Attached Files:

    #34 lafaspot, May 1, 2016
    Last edited: May 1, 2016
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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @lafaspot Good tips, there are always several ways to approach a problem. Many old timers here do not recommend changing the extrusion multiplier like that, it is better to calibrate the proper number of Esteps to get it correct at 100%, then you can make minor adjustments to extrsion multiplier is you are slightly over or under extruding. The number Robo has as default 723.32 has most likely no basis in anything real world, you will find with proper calibration everything works as it should.
     
  16. lafaspot

    lafaspot New Member

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    I tried M221 command on the startup scripts but this does not work with simplify3d produced gcode.
    I checked everywhere and I did not found a way to setup the esteps without flashing the firmware
    I'm still new at this, do you have any pointers for a method that does not require flashing the firmware of the ROBO 3D R1 plus.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to learn how to do the firmware. At some point it is a certainty you will need to.
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Flashing firmware.sounds scary but really its not. Expecially since you can go back to stock if its wacko. Watch youtube videos on it, google it, i even downloaded arduino and started playing with it before i had any real changes to do. Its good to be familiar
     
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  19. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    OMG finally getting this stuff to stick to the print bed with these setting thank you.
     
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  20. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Sounds like the problem you were having with not sticking to the bed and warping first layer may be due to not using anything to adhere it to the bed. Iv always used aquanet hairspray and imo theres nothing better. PETG sticks almost too good for me and never had even the slightest bit of warping.
     

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